|02-19-2003 10:29 PM|
|CET||I picked up a distributor today. Tried it with the old sensor plate. It ran better but still missed. Installed a new sensor and bam, its runs great. It will idle without stalling and started at -22C with no problems.|
|02-17-2003 10:10 PM|
[quote]Originally posted by trees:
<strong>Stude, how about leting us know what you final fix is. My knowledge base needs improvment.
No problem. I looked at it again today and pulled the distributor. I used a crude home made dial gauge and it appears that the shaft is bent however slightly. Also, now the plate inside is chewed up from the sensor plate.
I am off to find another distributor tomorrow. I will let you know how it turns out.
|02-13-2003 05:04 PM|
Stude, how about leting us know what you final fix is. My knowledge base needs improvment.
|02-13-2003 01:39 PM|
Thanks to you and woodz428 for the info.
I checked the shaft, the play is within specs and the "teeth" are lined up. After I reaasembled it it ran great for about 5 minutes and then it acted up again. I let it cool down ( it is -17C here ) and it worked again for a few minutes and then acted up again.
It would appear that the heat is causing it to go flaky, so replacing the sensor would seem to be in order.
[ February 13, 2003: Message edited by: CET ]</p>
|02-13-2003 04:32 AM|
Check for for a worn distributor shaft that lets the shutter wheel move around enough to touch the sensor. (look for signs of the "teeth" contacting the sensor) Up and down play in the distributor shaft should be from .015 to .030. You can do a better check of the set up with the distributor out of the motor by hooking to meter, applying power and spinning the shaft by hand.) you can also see the teeth in the gap better and align each tooth to the center of the gap. Also make sure gou have a gap at the bottom of the tooth as well.
|02-13-2003 03:54 AM|
|woodz428||It just generates a small electrical signal when the inducter passes it. Unfortunately from what you're describing it may test o.k. until it fails completely. If it quits and then will restart it's sometimes difficult to pin point a problem until the part fails.|
|02-12-2003 09:28 PM|
How to test sensor?
Does anyone know how to test the hall effect sensor on a 318 Chrysler engine?
I have replaced the vacuum lines ( cracked ) new plugs, cap, rotor, wires, checked all wiring connections. Cleaned the TB, timing is dead on, fuel pressure is good. The engine tends to miss upon acceleration. It will also idle great and then die. Restart it and it runs fine.
From what I have been reading it very likely could be the sensor but at almost $100 I don't want to buy it if the old one still good.