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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-20-2005 06:26 PM
advanced design
Quote:
Originally Posted by mad55chevy
I have a '55 210, and I use the stock control arms, upper and lower. I have done my homework here, and have all new poly bushings, a pair of offset upper control arm shafts, new heidt's spindles, stock new springs, and a nice new rack & pinion.

Currently, my castor is maxed out at -2.5 degrees, both sides. I have stuffed in as many shims as I can, and at least it's matched both sides. the offset upper shafts only gave me a degree. Obviously, this is why the car handles poorly at high speeds, and bumpsteer is real bad. It is my quest to get more castor, and a lot of it. I just ordered new upper control arms (tubular) that have 6 degrees built in..hooray.

what in the world can be sagging?? front crossmember? front half of the frame? All looks OK on the frame, looking for clues as to why this came to be.

CJ
Mad55Chevy,

I had the same issue (lack of caster, much bumpsteer) with my '56 Bel Air. The upper offset arms helped however I found the lower control arms had been moved out an inch and the crossmember drilled for the control arm bolts.

Perhaps the lowers were relocated on your '55 and the original holes were welded shut. I caught mine by sighting the imaginary line from upper control arm bushing to the lower control arm bushing. In that line the inner tie rod joint should fall and mine didn't. Fortunately the original holes for the lower control arm were there.

A higher ride height in the rear will reduce true caster. Might be a consideration.

An old time alignment guy told me these cars had the same problem when they were new. He'd go to NAPA and get the off set uppers for $15. Way higher now aren't they?
04-18-2005 09:12 PM
Rob Keller
mad 55

im unsure how to do almost everything on a pc including a private message and replies but any way
check measurements from front to back criss crossing start big then go small untill you isolate exactly where the prob lies
look at the frame to see if &where it might be bent then tak it to a good repitable shop and see if they say what you already know

try not to volenteer too much info so you can test the shop personell
please tell me howto do the personal messageing thinga
sory4thspeling
sr66
04-17-2005 11:07 PM
Rob Keller best thing i can tell you without seeing it is to measure ,measure, measure .
make sure u got a level area measure the frame then go outward to the suspension i guess its like a trianglization .

try going across the front wheels front, back, top ,bottom .
if that dont work front end machine will give you a good idea.
so hard to do without seeing feel free to bounce ideas off me if you like.

slowride 66
04-17-2005 09:47 PM
mad55chevy
more castor from '55 chevy 210

I have a '55 210, and I use the stock control arms, upper and lower. I have done my homework here, and have all new poly bushings, a pair of offset upper control arm shafts, new heidt's spindles, stock new springs, and a nice new rack & pinion.

Currently, my castor is maxed out at -2.5 degrees, both sides. I have stuffed in as many shims as I can, and at least it's matched both sides. the offset upper shafts only gave me a degree. Obviously, this is why the car handles poorly at high speeds, and bumpsteer is real bad. It is my quest to get more castor, and a lot of it. I just ordered new upper control arms (tubular) that have 6 degrees built in..hooray.

what in the world can be sagging?? front crossmember? front half of the frame? All looks OK on the frame, looking for clues as to why this came to be.

CJ

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