|09-22-2005 10:18 PM|
Bob is right on as alway's.
That Nason clear is a nice one and the 3:1 will do great. It's not a spot or panel repair like the 4:1 so it won't dry out as quick on you. Just be SURE to use the right temp catylist for the ambient temp when you shoot it. Using the high temp when it's around 80-85 will slow it down a little more on the dry time which can be a big help on the flow out so don't be afraid to use it.If it's 75 or under,go with the next lower catylist. I think they only have 2 temp's for that clear,ask your supplier and make SURE it's for the 3:1 clear.
Lay you 2-3 initial coats of clear and color sand it out being carefull to recheck for any odd scratch patterns with a grease & wax remover or the 50/50 alc.water spray. Resand where needed to straighten it up.
Shoot your last 2-3 coats of clear,reduce each batch 10% with Nason reducer,proper temp of course,and shoot the final coat's of clear.
I have not used the Endust wipe's,just the spray on plain cheese cloth and it does work BUT,and I say BUT, Don't spray it on heavy,just dust the cloth and let it air out for 10 min. or so before LIGHTLY tacking the car off.
Or, Just drag out the chain out of the 4X4 and connect it to the BODY someplace out of the way and let it lay on the concrete.
Do the clear EARLY in the morning,like shortly after daylight,and the bug/trash factor will be at it's lowest of the day.
Take a box fan and set it up on a step ladder or such,secured of course, at the frount and set it on LOW and have a light breeze to help push out the fumes towards the open end of the carport.
|09-22-2005 09:52 PM|
|09-22-2005 09:49 PM|
|baddbob||No sealer should be needed, urethane primers will keep your fillers from bleeding. Most sealers are just a reduced urethane primer anyway, some are epoxy based. You'll get better results without using a sealer.|
|09-22-2005 09:38 PM|
thanks for the suggestions
|09-22-2005 09:28 PM|
I'll try and answer your questions.
1. you definately need to apply some primer over the metal glaze and filler areas and sand it one more time. Paint can't be applied directly over fillers.
2. you can wetsand your clear and apply more, if it's a 3-1mix I would keep the ratio the same and air pressure.
3. you shouldn't need to wetsand your basecoat between coats, if you like you could just knock any nibs off between coats if you let the paint flash long enough but there shouldn't be any need to sand the whole car if the paint is going on alright.
4. I don't know what your carport is like to spray in so I really can't make any suggestions there but watch your health and make sure you wear a good mask with the door open and or fans to get the fumes out.
5. no experience with endust yet.
|09-22-2005 08:45 PM|
Couple of paint questions
Im about to paint a car next week and I got a couple of questions before I do. Although I have done repairs's and partial painting, this will be my first ever complete paint job.
1. My hood was in very bad shape. After days and days of working it, I got quite a bit of metal glaze in it were it was wavy and a few spots of regular filler. Should I use a sealer on this before my base coat? (BTW, I have a quart of sealer left over)
2. Does wet sanding after the 2nd coat of clear with 600 grit and then laying down a third runnier (flow) coat of clear make it extra smooth as suggested? DO I just use more activator or do I use reducer in the clear and by how much? (Nason 3:1 clear) Do I turn down the air pressure on the last coat of clear?
3. What about the base coat. Is there any advantage to wet sanding the base coat between coats with some 1500-2000 grit? (It was mentioned to me, but I don't think there is any advantage)
4. I will be painting this in a kinda small carport (20 x 12). It is alot cleaner and less dusty than any shop I could use. I was gonna use plastic sheeting to seal the one open side and the open door off, but Im worried about the overspray floating around in the somewhat small area and landing on the fresh paint. Will it be ok to go ahead and seal it off an maybe use 2 or 3 fans to help pull the overspray out? Or should I leave the door open and wet everything down real good?
5. I read about people using the Endust cleaning wipes as a tack rag and some said it was better because it took the static out of the panels and keeps dirt and bugs from sticking to the car. Does it leave anything behind on the paint or is it just alcohol that evaperates? Do you tack rag it after you use the endust wipes or just the endust wipes?
Thanks for you help and any suggestions are greatly appreciated.