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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-09-2005 11:55 AM
kenseth17 I like the perfect it glaze. Won a bottle many years ago in a drawing at the tech school, and still have some left. A little goes a long ways. I've been starting out with the super duty rubbing compound by 3m, but now that I go over with finer papers before buffing, may use a finer compound to start with once the bottle is empty. Mequires also has good buffing compounds, many good brands to choose from, and everyone has their favorite system to use.
10-09-2005 04:03 AM
adtkart One thing I like about this board is that there are always alot of differing opinions to choose from. I like to use the finer papers to get it as smooth as possible (within reason) before buffing. The finer the buffing compound, the less chance of cutting thru the clear on the body lines. There are wet sanding disks available for use with a DA up to 2500 that go on regular DA pads. There are also 3000 disks available that require the use of a special pad. Using them takes very little effort, and will almost make it shine, before buffing. Then I use either "Perfect-it" or "Finess-it" from 3M for the buffing, using foam pads, and have had great results without swirl marks. Others have their favorite brands of compounds, and reasons using for them.

10-08-2005 11:37 PM
Also I like to know how is that dull clear comes out shiny when you buff it?
Another one is when you sand clear coat to put more coat how come again dull clear becomes shiny when you put clear on it? I always wondered.
When you wetsand and buff you are putting finer and finer scratches in, taking out larger scratches, even the compounds have grit to them and the pads. When you get fine enough the gloss comes back. If you went to a fine enough sandpaper the gloss would start coming back Clear sprays out glossy as well as fills fine scratches, so spraying you have gloss again, even if you sanded with something too course you would still have gloss spraying clear, but the scratches would be magnified by the clear. I don't sand with anything courser then 1000 for dirt specks minor orange peel. Only time I would use 600 is on a bad spot like a run, or something where 1000 just won't cut it. You can sand with 3000 or whatever if you want, the buffing part will go faster and gloss will come back fairly easy, but at 2000 you are at a point where it should buff fairly easy.
10-08-2005 08:40 PM
Centerline The above advice is pretty much on the mark, however I would not sand clear coat with anything less than 1000 grit. IMHO 600 is too aggressive. Remember if you sand through the clear the only fix is to re-shoot the entire panel.
10-08-2005 05:57 PM
hank medlock
Too much work!

I presume you are working with base coat-clearcoat. Start block sanding with 600 grit (WET with a drop of dishsoap in the water) then double that (1200) do most the work with the 600. The 1200 takes out the tracks of the 600. Then use medium grit compound (with a wool pad on an electric buffer) then polish or glaze. The only thing u get goin to finer wet sanding is exercise! And as soon as u buff with the medium compound ur wife will disregard what she said about u earlier. It really does work...enjoy standin back, havin a beer and grinnin!

10-08-2005 01:55 PM
Wet Sanding and Buffing

I start wet sanding the clear and 1500 wet take care the orange peel and I'm following it with 2000. Should I go to 2500 to 3000 before buff?
Also I like to know how is that dull clear comes out shiny when you buff it?
Another one is when you sand clear coat to put more coat how come again dull clear becomes shiny when you put clear on it? I always wondered.

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