|10-16-2005 08:18 AM|
whatever you do dont use matches.
or a lighter
it overheats the heat shrink and gives it thin spots.
also matches leave a corrosive residue.
|10-16-2005 07:26 AM|
The hotter the better...
I think mine is 1800 to 2500 watts..I paid like $25.00 for it at ACE like 3 years ago and use it daily...
Routing wires is a matter of personal preference once you overcome natural hazards to the bundle..If it's rigid, and safe, HOWEVER you do it is all good...
I sometimes use that same tube you have , But I get it in Chrome...
OR if you REALLY want to make it look good..get one of those Stainless Steel Hose cover kits, like they use on Dress up hoses, (the sleeves aren't really SS..but look like it..)
ON ANY harness I have to run UNDER a car, and especially on 4 wheel drives..I use 1 to 1 ~ 1/2 inch EMT conduit. (Ace, $2.00 for a 10 foot stick)
I bend it to mirror the frame rails and use standard Condulets and Street ELLs for pull and exit.. and use Liquid ~ Tite for exits to like fuel pump, fuel sender, tail and trailer lights..
Liquid~Tite is flexible gray plastic coated conduit mostly for motor make up applications to get the wires from EMT or Rigid Conduit to the motor make up box, and is waterproof..comes in all sizes It Also solves problems on Front clips that open forward and up..the conduit just flexes as it opens and shuts..)
EMT Conduit Also looks "Natural " on roll bars for Driving lamps..provided you bend it to hug the bar.
I mount the conduit with rigid conduit clamps to the frame with Tech screws..
If you do mudding, hit a lot of water and stumps, the wires are safely tucked away in the EMT conduit, not subject to corrosion, rot or being yanked out or shorted..About the only thing you should do is add an 1/8 Weep hole at each end (termination) to allow moisture out..
AND it's super Cheap too..like $20 bucks for all the stuff..
Just a few Ideas..your open to whatever your Imagination can perceive, Provided it's done in a safe workmanship~like manner..(Anti Chafe, rigid mounting,grommets, Stars, locks, AND separation from fuel/heat and rotating parts)
|10-15-2005 10:59 PM|
|MI2600||Heat gun?? I've been using matches.|
|10-15-2005 10:38 PM|
|jmhollis||There are a number of heat guns that work fine, however I would recommend getting one with a curved baffle at the end that wraps around behind the wire and deflects the air around the shrink tube and then back toward the gun. This deflector stops most of the heat from continuing beyond the wire and tube being worked and melting something else - like carpet or insulation on other wires. There are also a lot of colors and sizes readily available if you want to color match your insulation or color code your connections. I use plain black tubing myself but they all do a good job...|
|10-15-2005 10:14 PM|
Heat shrink, routing wires, etc.
I'm about 3/4 complete wiring my 67 Scout. This is an offroad rig but does have alot of bling and leads a pampered life in a heated garage. I installed a complete new wiring harness using crimp on connectors. After looking at the project I decided to use solder instead to give me a more reliable and better looking job. Also, I'm looking for a better way to route the wires, right now I'm using the standard black tube with the slit down the side. So I have 2 questions.
Since I'm soldiering the wires I'll be using heat shrink. The Home improvment store has 3 different heat guns of various heat ranges, what is the best heat range for heat shink?
What is the best way to route wires? I want this job to look and work great, any ideas/pictures would be nice.