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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-21-2005 07:18 AM
baddbob One more vote here for epoxy first! If you're looking for an easy sanding fiberglass reinforced filler try Evercoat's new one-Glass-lite. Good stuff!

11-20-2005 12:36 AM
robs ss
Dura Glas then epoxy

Thank you Brian, appreciate it as always
11-20-2005 12:02 AM
MARTINSR LOL, I am glad you "got it", I had a lot of guys with restoration shops not take that comment so well.

Here is a low down on fillers.....Duraglass would be found in the "reinforced polyester filler" catagory.


“Basics of bondo types”

"Regular" polyester body filler, and polyester "putty" is basically the same thing. They are both, you guessed it "Polyester" based. Polyester is what fiberglass is made of. The fillers have talc and some other components that give it "body", that is the basic difference between fiberglass resin and polyester body fillers.
The Putties have a finer ground talc than "regular" filler. They cost MUCH more, but are well worth it for skim coats and minor repairs. Being they are polyester they use a hardener and CURE like fiberglass.
The old "spot putties" DO NOT use a hardener and are simply lacquer primer . They are JUNK and should not be used.

Some examples of these products are as follows.

“Reinforced” polyester fillers:
These can be aluminum filled body filler for metal surfaces. I is very hard to sand and not good for the finish work (needs a skim coat of a “reg” filler or polyester putty) but will fill much more per coat reg filler and has more corrosion resistance.
A Fiberglass reinforced filler is similar.

Examples are:
Evercoat’s “Metal-2-Metal”, “Everglass”, “Kitty Hair”, “Tiger Hair”
3M’s 05815 Short stand filler, 05813 Long strand filler.

"Regular" polyester body fillers:
Evercoats RAGE or "Lite weight" and others.
3M's Lightweight body filler #058001

Polyester putties:
Evercoat's "Glaze coat","Metal glaze", "Easy sand" and others.
3M's "Flowable finishing putty"#05824 or "Piranha"#05821 .

"Spot putty" (junk, not recommended) Usually found in a toothpaste tube looking container.
Evercoat's "Ever-glaze" #403
3M's "Acryl-green" red or blue #05960,05964,05966
Dupont’s 2286S, PPG’s DFL17

I personally recommend Evercoat products.
11-19-2005 11:42 PM
robs ss
Dura Glas then epoxy

Keep in mind I am not a professional, but what is polyester filler, can you mention name brands, by the way you made a comment on one of these sites that anybody could restore a car, that there is a big difference in professional collision work and restoration work, and amateurs should feel comfortable about doing restoration work.
Well you made my day and probably quite a few others, when your out in your garage doing this work you don't have another body type guy to ask does this look okay.
It's comforting to hear a top professional like yourself say that, I'll walk in the house and instead of second guessing myself I just stop and think, amateurs can do a good job, then I feel a lot better.
Thanks again Brian
11-19-2005 07:36 PM
MARTINSR Again, what exactly are you going to be repairing? You mention "pin holes" in you last post, that isn't all you have is pin holes in welds is it? You certainly don't need Duraglass or even regular filler for that! A little polyester putty and you are done.

Polyester filler will stick to bare metal just fine. The epoxy is an added corrosion resistance for you. Epoxy has a sticky resin that likes to have things applied over it with no sanding

11-19-2005 06:39 PM
robs ss
Dura Glas then epoxy

I have always thought that filler would stick to bare metal better then anything else if it's freshly roughed up really good, how could it stick to epoxy paint any better, I don't know, but if you have a few pinholes, really tiny, probably the dura glas first, but I really don't know, thanks again
11-19-2005 12:13 PM
GRN69CHV Rob, when I stripped my original vinyl top '69 car, it had regular old bondo in there - under the factory red primer - in there for 35 years on top of bare metal. I dug it all out, and refiilled to level with Evercoat Glass filler. Same with a deep dent (actually a crease) at the lower rear 1/4 panel. All I use the glass filler for is to bring the depression up to level. Far too much work and wasted effort to think you wil get it smooth or tapered. I just get it to shape with a 6" sander and move on. I never used to do this, but have started using Rage (or similiar) over epoxy. Skim coated both of my 1/4 panels, then blocked them smooth. By the time I applied my 2K, the car was basically ready for BC/CC. THe glass filler really bites into an 80 grit (or rougher) metal surface. I am very happy with the results so far. Key is, if the metal panel does not have any holes in it, and you seal the surface of with epoxy, the filler will not see moisture from either the front or back.
11-19-2005 04:35 AM
robs ss
Dura Glas then epoxy

Thank you Brian.

11-18-2005 09:41 PM
MARTINSR No Rob, spraying the epoxy first is going to give you the best foundation for the filler.

This is my concern with the Dynaglass. It is very hard sanding, it fills like a mutha Hubbard but sands like a brick. If you are working on what I picture it (a photo would be nice) I see lots of body lines and things that are on the typical floor to strengthen it from flexing. Sanding around that stuff is the worse, holy crap you wear your finger prints off.

Regular filler like RAGE will sand much easier, if you apply the epoxy first you have a corrosion fighting base for it, then after you sand it you apply a urethane or polyester primer.

AGAIN, polyester primer is for serious filling, you may not need it. But as I said, I picture this complex hand sanding around lumps and lines and brackets and such that I have on floors. If you don't have this where you are doing the actual smoothing of your weld seams, then skip the polyester primer. Just sand the filler with a finer paper, and use a urethane primer over the whole thing. Sand it all smooth and paint.

If you have a lot of this hand sanding, you could save a lot of finger tips by sanding it with coarse paper (much faster cutting) and then polyester prime it, then sand that with a finer paper to paint. Or you could even just apply the polyester primer over the area where the filler is, sand it with 180, filling and surfacing all the scratches and pin holes and what not in the filler. Then urethane prime the whole thing, sand that and paint.

11-18-2005 07:59 PM
robs ss
Dura Glas then epoxy

GRN69SHV, well thats two and two epoxy first and epoxy last, hows it going. Rob
11-18-2005 07:53 PM
robs ss
Dura Glas then epoxy

Brian, so what you're saying is put the filler over bare metal, then spray epoxy over that, then I will wait a few days then scuff the epoxy then spray k-38 then sand then paint it, this is the underbody.
Thanks Rob
11-18-2005 03:36 PM
kenseth17 Yeah, your right Brian, duraglass is a lot of work if you try sanding it, but I am assuming he is using it on a butt welded area or something similar. I always like to put fiberglass filler down first when smoothing a welded seam, of course it just hit the fiberglass with a grinder to flatten and don't really sand it unless I have to, then use plastic filler over the top and sand that. Maybe just a skim coat of fiberglass in case any little pinhole in the weld, but be neat so you don't give yourself a lot of work.
Its going good Rob, finally found a job, been there a month now and was just told I got a small raise.
11-18-2005 03:35 PM
kenseth17 Oops, double post
11-18-2005 03:25 PM
MARTINSR The only recommendation I have is loose the Duraglass. My God, that is WAY too much work. Unless you are trying to create some sort of "structual" strength or something, just use regular old filler.

Use the filler on things that need a lot of filling, sand it with 80 or even 40 so you don't have to work too hard and then polyester prime the whole shooting match. You then can sand that polyester primer to PERFECTION and have the most beautiful floor that side of the Mississippi.

11-18-2005 02:36 PM
GRN69CHV I filled my roof seams and a couple of deeper dents with E-C glass filler, also used some Metal to Metal filler in areas - all on bare metal. Sealed everything with epoxy, the used my Rage filler to surface, then 2K.
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