|03-02-2003 01:54 PM|
Hey guys, thanks again for all the replies. It helps to have input from a lot of different people with different experiences in painting. Personally, I would have never tackled a paint job if I hadn't been screwed out of $3500 by a redneck bodyman. I started working at the parts store where he bought all of his paint (while he still had my car) and after mixing quite a few gallons of paint for him and other people (I never did get the chance to mix the Medium Garnet Red for my car...haha) I decided if that ********* could paint, so could I. Anyway...the store where I worked wasn't very organized and the owner knew about as much about painting as he did about building a rocket. Needless to say, his variety of paint products wasn't very extensive. There was only one line of the primer: 2K Urethane (I really like the primer), one range of basecoat stabilizer(reducer or whatever you wanna call it) and that was the fast reducer. He had one grade of clearcoat - high solids booth clear and fast activator. I guess I should have gone to the parts store down the street and bought some dupont.
With that said, the only reason I decided to paint this fender was that I had painted a hood for my car and had some materials left over. I used the last of my basecoat and the biggest part of the clear, but I had planned on trying a different brand of basecoat and definitely not a urethane booth clearcoat the next time I tried to paint anything at all. I guess practice and experimenting will probably make things a little easier as I progress, but it's kinda hard without somebody to show me how to do it. I took my hood to a local bodyman and asked him to tell me what I did wrong and he told me it looked like ***** and he'd do it for $150 if I supplied the materials...anyway lol I didn't do it...but that's the kind of people I have to deal with around where I live...this place is the worst lol ANYWAY I've rambled enought...thanks again for all of your input and if I run into any other problems I know where to turn...
|03-02-2003 05:37 AM|
Well, I am no pro, but I just finished my S-10 with martin seniour BC/CC(Dupount). I had done BC/CC before, and found the martin seniour hard to use at first. Like stated earlier it is thin as water. I found that if I tryed to put it on too thick on the first coat it tended to separate on the surface and give a rough finish. I thought at first it was surface prep contamination because of the way it looked. What I found is that the paint was a bit picky about application.
What worked for me was first setting the gun to 55 psi at the regulator. Also I used about a 10 inch fan. The most important thing seemed to be to start with a very thin first coat. I would start with a very thin coat that did not even completely cover. Then I would follow with two normal wet coats. If I tryed to start with a wet coat it just did not work. It would leave a rough finish and seemed to separate. Once I got one thin coat dryed everything was okay.
Hope this helps.
|03-01-2003 06:25 PM|
Reducing the color will only result in stronger acting chemicals being trapped in between coats. Mix as specified and use the proper reducer for flow. Sherwin williams personaly I dont care for. its like water.. The premium version of Sherwin Williams is called Stand Ox, So thick you can barely stir it and covers in 2 coats guarnteed... You could of also wet sanded the primer with 800 wet for a smoother finish under the base( I use 1000 on show finishes. Too late for that now though. Maybe next time.
As for fluid, never turn more fluid into the scenario. your putting more chemical down, the least the better. It wasnt designed to go on thick. Same for your clear coat. It will increase orange peel in another way. the effect will be modeling from a distance. Theres a fine line between too much and too little were your at. Always use test panals before you shoot your project too. This gives you a idea of whats going to happen before it does. 1.6 size needle is good. Versitile for clears too.
It really sounds to me as if you could of ran a differnt speed reducer to compensate for flow.
[ March 01, 2003: Message edited by: augie ]
[ March 01, 2003: Message edited by: augie ]</p>
|03-01-2003 04:44 PM|
|trees||Sounds good so far. Since you are practicing, I would reduce the amount of paint, make a couple of passes and see if it gets better (or worse) and keep adjusting accordingly.|
|03-01-2003 04:35 PM|
ok thank you guys for the fast reply. I'll start off by telling you that I used Sherwin Williams 2K Urethane Primer Buff (Beige colored). This primer also acts as a sealer. I used one light coat, followed by 2 medium wet coats. I let the primer flash 15 minutes between coats (as the directions stated). After allowing the primer to dry for 8 hours I wetsanded it with 400. I then wetsanded it with 600 and let it set overnight. I mixed 1 part of basecoat with 1 part of basecoat stabilizer (as the directions stated). I made sure to use a mixing cup to get the mix EXACT. I just bought a HVLP gravity feed paint gun and I've been reading all over the net trying to find out how to adjust it. I'm using 60 PSI coming from the compressor and 38 PSI at the regulator on the gun (approx 9 PSI at the cap I think). I closed the air volume control knob on the bottom of the gun all the way, pulled the trigger, and opened it until the air sounded consistant. I then opened the fluid control knob halfway and adjusted the fan to approx 6 inches oval. Finally I closed the fluid control knob until the trigger would not shoot paint. I opened it one full turn and half of another one and slightly adjusted it until it seemed enough paint was coming out for the speed I would be moving the gun over the surface. hmmm...also I am using Sherwin Williams basecoat (when I mixed the paint I worked at a parts store and actually I didn't have to mix it...it was a Sherwin Williams #U7025 High Solids Basecoat Black, but that's what it called for on the microfiche) I checked at a NAPA, who deals in Martin Seneor which is supposed to be the same thing as Sherwin Williams, and they said their mix called for approx 3500 grams of black, aprox 50 of white and approx 90 of yellow. On the back of each can of intermix color it said not to use alone, that it was meant to be mixed with other colors, but I don't know if that would have anything to do with it. Hmmm...does that help?? lol Thanks everybody for taking the time to look at this. OH I also wanted to clarify that what I meant was that the paint isn't smoothe. It has a slight texture to it kinda like overspray. If I slow the gun down a little bit the paint orange peels. I tried more fluid with my original speed and got the same results. I just can't seem to get it down ?
[ March 01, 2003: Message edited by: Custom95Z ]</p>
|03-01-2003 04:13 PM|
It will look dullish & it will look wet but not shiny(Single stage or Enamel or Eurothane now "whatever you want to call it will shine like clear coat upon application"..) basecoat is not shiny when applied. If it looks orange peely it shouldnt unless whats below it is. Hopefully whats below has been blocked with a long block for straightness. I also wonder how thick of a coat you have applied. Which could very well be the answer here since you have little application experience. Usually if you use a colored primer and sealer on a named brand basecoat like (PPG Global)(Spieshecker)(House of Color Etc...)
2 coats of base is fine. And bear in mind these are faily thin coats. You cant glob it and not heavy coats... Without colored primer/sealer 3-4 thin coats with proper flashing times between is crucial. Make sure to look at the base between coats. Upon application you'll notice its wet looking, when it looks completly dull is when its ready. When its dull you can then go back and tack off each coat apllied and still remain well within your base /clearing window. And your removing any dust or particles that may of landed during the covering.. Over spray, dirty air particles etc..
I custom painted for many years and still do on occasion. Thought Id reply to the post
[ March 01, 2003: Message edited by: augie ]</p>
|03-01-2003 04:08 PM|
I'm no expert, but may help a bit. If you are orange peeling base coat, you are trying to put too much on with too much pressure on the gun. Also, you may not have mixed correctly. Tell me what you are shooting and what the directions says your mix is supposed to be. Base coat is not supposed to be shiney or wet looking and you only want enough to give an even and consistent color. If it is rough looking, the spray is flashing before it hits the surface and appears as overspray much like you have to hot a reducer. Depending on temp, I will wait 15- 20 min between coats. (if I'm doing an entire car, there is no wait because it will take me more than 15 min to get all around. The label should tell you the max time between coats.
|03-01-2003 03:44 PM|
Basecoat question? ASAP
I've got a quick question about basecoat. I've only painted with basecoat 2 times (second time being RIGHT NOW) and acrylic enamel once before. I'm having some problems with the basecoat. Is it supposed to have any texture to it at all? Either I orange peel it or it looks really rough. What's going on? Please help ASAP lol I'm painting a junk fender just to try to get the hang of it but the paint is flashing right now. Thanks!