|01-22-2006 05:58 PM|
Rules pretty much go out the window for sure.
It also depends on how confident you are with what your doing.
I generally clear coat my base color when possiable. This provides a solvent resistant barrier for future paint work against bleeds and color mix issues,changes,mistakes.
I will shoot a coat of binder over something if it's going to sit awhile and just scuff it with a gray pad and continue on with the work later. This gives me a scratch for paint as well as a cover coat over light AB work so's it doesen't screw it up from scuffing directly on it.You can always apply some adhesion promoter like Dupont 222 if your in doubt.
This is not the "average" paint work and no way would I do a complete panel or vehicle for that matter "out" of it's window.
|01-22-2006 05:57 PM|
mrclean is right,
heres what i have done with no problems.
when you spray that coat of clear I was supposed to spray weeks ago, i over reduce the clear just a tiny bit, or mix accordingly with the slowest reducer i got. then, i make my first coat a nice light piss coat. what ever you want to call it. just put the clear on very lightly so that it acclimates with the pervious coats, but doesnt "shock" them. let it tack up, and the proceed as normal. i make the next coat a little heavier, then the 3rd what ever
this process may not be needed, but id rather be safe than sorry.
|01-22-2006 05:35 PM|
|mrcleanr6||im going to tell you right now that when you are custom painting all that 24 hour window crap goes completely out the window. even if you shoot intercoat clear on it you still have the window since its nothing more than clear base. i will sometimes have things sit here in basecoat for 2 weeks before the graphics go on. or a month while its being airbrushed. if you are doing a graphics job where the background gets shot first then go ahead and clear it then sand it down and do the graphics. this doesn't always happen though. sometimes the background color gets sprayed last. for the most part dont worry about it. you not going to have any kind of adhesion problem. the clear sticks fine.|
|01-22-2006 03:53 PM|
|chadsbodyshop49119||PPG's midcoat is DBC500, it works ok, but it would be best to put regular clear down, so it depends on what your doing,, if you use the 500, it's not activated so if you get anything harsh on it it can wash off, such as reducer or thinner, but if your just taping and spraying you shall be good..|
|01-22-2006 10:47 AM|
Get some intercoat to cover the base for when you lay down graphics... PPG sells some as does HOK... I use the hok sg-100... works fine..
Or you can spray a coat of clear if you want to wait until the next day to do any tape outs... You can over reduce clear and cut drying time down some or use and accelerator
|01-22-2006 10:18 AM|
basecoat, graphics, clear, how do you get around the timing while doing the graphics?
I'm doing a motorcycle tank and fenders for a friend. Using PPG Deltron paint system. After the DBC basecoat goes on you have 24 hours to clear. How do you guys get around this if you have more than 24 hours worth of graphics to put on?
My paint supplier suggested one coat of clear onto the basecoat before the graphics, then the graphics, then the rest of the clear. Make sense?