|02-06-2006 09:45 AM|
|shine||i'm finding the starblast to be more forgiving on the older vettes. it leaves a much finer anchor pattern and does not chip edges as bad.|
|02-06-2006 09:33 AM|
plastic media stripping
I believe we are using a urea based plastic media, we buy it from "maxiblast I think, .
we use an acrylic media on vettes, though it seems the mid 70through 80's vettes plastic is kinda soft..........the old vettes and the new frp produced ones strip very nicely. No the parts dont have to be off, we do what we call a feather edge, we mask off all jambs , and seams where panels that are on the car meet with one layer of electric tape and two layers of duct tape.......this way the shop that sends us the car, doesnt have to do the jambs if they dont want, they just sand down the featheredge and prime, we have done it this way for almost twenty yrs and it works great, now , if a car comes dissasembled we can do a better job,a nd yes if you are l blasting the inside of the pickup box and the door and fender jambs, it'l;l take three hours or so. But this company is the best around, we do everything from the fenders and tanks of harleys still on the line..(they experimented a few yrs back with various powder coats and we stripped their boo boos, also when gm went to the plastic doors on camaros(you know , with the faired in mirrors) we stripped their prototypes while they trained their machines to paint the parts, we'd remove many layers of paint so the machines had a fresh surface.
|02-04-2006 10:58 AM|
|shine||what type acrylic are you using ? i use type 5 for metal and type 6 for corvettes. i'm using a bunch of starblast now. it works great on the vettes for cleanup. wish i could get one done in an hr . it take anywhere from 8 to 16 hrs depending on how many layers are on it. the type 5 gets after it on steel though.|
|02-04-2006 10:27 AM|
A complete truck down to bare metal in one hour !,Impressive,I know the plastic media is very expensive,I've priced it out,and I can't use it because I have no effective way of reclaiming it.
How long does it last for reusing,and what would a pickup truck cost to have done approximately?
I imagine all plastic parts would have to be removed first.
|02-03-2006 11:51 PM|
plastic media stripping, the only "safe "way to remove old finishes.
...........as I said earlier, the only safe way to remove paint is proffesional acrylic plastic media stripping...........our guys do it at uspray inc in butler wisconsin day in and day out............no damage ever........well there was this ford suv with a frp tailgate...........ooops!) we have two 2-12 inch hoses that are in a 35 foot long 15 foot wide room that has air systems and filter systes and a constant reclaimer system, really nice set up..........we used to do ALLL the paint peeler cars in the mid 80's to present for the local milwaukee waukesha dealers, and we can blast a ford f-150 complete on thje outside in about 1 hour.........that is clean down to the metal............no warp , no damage and no smeg left over on the body, just pristine metal, we do all the pot metal and aluminum castings from omc out boards off of their assy lines, and bikes from trek bike.
very safe fast and efficiant.............acrylic plastic media
|02-03-2006 07:19 PM|
well that would work. i am planning on getting one of them small hobby cabinets. but what is the glassbeads good for? strictly paint removal? kind of like baking soda?
|02-03-2006 07:16 PM|
|shine||glass beads are for blast cabinets.|
|02-03-2006 07:04 PM|
well i just bought my 50lb bag of starblast for $19.69. i guess that is the price i pay for living in paridise... i did have a question on glass bead. looks like they had a bucket of #B and #AF for cheap. any idea on what these are? are all glass beas the same? i happened to open the bucket to take a look at the #b and it looked simular to that of the starblast size. will it work on rusted stuff? or is it better for stuff like heads? how does it hold up on sheetmetal?
|02-03-2006 12:27 PM|
|shine||it's close to glass bead blasting but a little more aggresive. you'll like how it gets in the tiny cracks and stuff. i love it. i even uae it on vettes but i have to start with plastic.|
|02-03-2006 10:39 AM|
once again, you're the man... thanks for the good info. i'll see if my local supplier got the starblast in stock(though i think it will be a little more than the $10 but it will still be worth it) gotta keep momentum on my project, so i'll be blasting during the big game this weekend...
thanks again, JD
|02-03-2006 06:03 AM|
|02-03-2006 05:49 AM|
|shine||the composite industry has been trying to tell folks about sand for 30 years. why some one would risk destroying a car for 50 bucks saving is beyond me. you ask them and they'll give you a 3 page list of reasons not to use sand. let's get real , who knows more about it? us or the people who make and sale abrasives.i do it for a living and did my research before investing in all the equipment. if 10 bucks a bag is too much your in the wrong hobby|
|02-02-2006 09:46 PM|
|jalopy45||This whole post is full of good info but the one area I didn't see is that sandblasting anneals the sheet metal and makes it hard to work if you need to do some hammer and dolly work. So if you got a warped panel you'll need to soften it up to work it.|
|02-02-2006 09:29 PM|
|oldred||I would stay with the starblast, just avoiding the silica is worth the small extra cost.|
|02-02-2006 08:41 PM|
well doin the jams shouln't be a problem for sand because they are so rigid. this discussion was about panels being warped by sand , but door jams really have no where to warp to due to the small area and the rigidity of that whole area. so have at it and just do it with your eyes closed , that sand getz to stingin' them watery ol'eyeballs.
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