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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-02-2007 03:19 PM
yknot Since you are going to go the supercharger route, why not convert to Electronic Fuel Injection? It's much nicer, easier to adjust, gets better mileage and usually nets better results then a carb.
02-02-2007 06:42 AM
T-bucket23 Yes to both, very simple install. The only problem was the thermostat housing. I could not find one that fit nice under the blower that could be easily removed with the blower installed and still allowed for the radiator hose to be installed properly. There is a MR gasket one that the hose will have plenty of clearance but you have to remove the blower to get to the bolts for removal. I finally ended up buying an offset adapter which bolts to the manifold and moves the thermostat out away from the blower. This was the only real glitch I ran into. This is not really a huge problem as it actually would only be 4 bolts to move the blower out of the way to change the thermostat, I just wanted a better way.
02-01-2007 08:35 PM
Artemis Entreri That is the 142? Looks friken sweet. That silver thing down below is the lower supercharger pulley?

How exactly does that go on? Just sits in the crank pulley with a bolt going threw em both?
02-01-2007 04:29 PM
T-bucket23 Here is a better picture of my installation

01-29-2007 02:45 PM
camaroman7d If you're going to pull the pistons out to re-ring and hoe the engine what sense does it make not to go ahead and put forged pistons in it? It is cheap insurance. At 4-5lbs of boost you can "probably" get by with cast pistons but, one bad tank of gas or missed tune up and you will be tearing the engine down again. You don't have to get crazy on the pistons for that boost range, just buy a decent set of forged pistons. You are 21 and chances are you will want to push it a bit and beat on it, do it right the first time. What if you decide you want to make a little more power or *** a little nitrous? If you have the forged pistons in there already you are good to go. If you were building a street rod (or T-bucket), that would be one thing but, in a heavier car detonation is more likely. Due to more load on the engine.

As far as timing, you can't accurately set it without running the engine. You do not want to run a blown engine retarded or it will run hot. Your timing curve is very important for best performance, blowers like a lot of initial timing I would start at 18* but, you need to limit your total timing, if you run cast pistons I would limit total to 28-30* max. With forged pistons you can go a little more
01-29-2007 06:11 AM
T-bucket23 It shouldnt detonate with out a load on it, so startup should not be a problem as long as you dial it in fairly quickly. Just remember always start all adjustments on the safe side and go from there. If you are concerned, once you put it together leave the blower belt off, start it time it the put the belt on. Yes it will run without the blower connected I have done it.
01-28-2007 10:13 AM
Artemis Entreri At initial start up, when im trying to tune the engine, how is the best way to avoid detonation? Retard the timing, or advance it? Is there anything else I can do to avoid detonation when I first put the engine in and am working out its kinks?

Found these pistons, nice CR, forged, not too expensive either.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
01-28-2007 08:37 AM
T-bucket23 I did exactly what you are talking about and I have driven the car for 2 seasons with zero issues. You need to be concerned about detonation, its what will destroy your pistons, timing and cooling is critical. I have seen a max of 6 lbs from my 142 with the stock pulleys. Usually it pushes around 3 to 4 on short city street pulls. Like you I also have vortec heads and when I purchased my blower Weiand was the only one making a blower intake for vortec. I think Dyer also has one now.

I would not recomend changin pistons in the car. Pull it have it cleaned and at least honed so the new rings will seat. You are flirting with problems trying to do it in the car, it will be almost impossible to keep things clean enough not to damage something. You wont really save anytime either as you will still need to take the top end off the engine and the pan. All that will really be left is the tranny bolts and motor mounts.
01-27-2007 06:25 PM
Artemis Entreri Heh, I bought the book, and have read most of it, minus some of the history parts int he first few chapters. It has given me pretty decent idea of whats going on in a blown engine.

As for why, mainly because at first, reading the different articles of bolting on smaller blowers to mostly stock engines and getting 450-500 hp out of it, I thought it would be an easy way to get big power (~500) and still having a nice driving car. Plus roots blowers are so friken kool looking, dont see many of them around here, especially on cars that are not full restos with a super crazy engine in them.

I started this, definantly under the impression from magazines and online reading that I could take a mild vortec 350 with low compression hyper pistons and drop a 1800$ supercharger on it, and then id have the power I wanted, which is very streetable, and relatively cheap considering the power id be getting.

Could I lower the PSI of the 142 setup? From what I understand it will give me something like 5 on a mild 350 setup.
01-27-2007 05:49 PM
camaroman7d Yes, You "NEED" forged pistons for anything over 4lbs of boost. Hyper pistons are cast pistons and have no place in a blown engine. It's your money you can pay now or pay more later, either way you will have to pay. Forged pistons are much stronger and can tolerate the higher heat that will be in the combustion chamber due to the added boost/power. With a cast piston if for some reason you ping/detonate the engine one time you will have a shattered piston, What do you think that rod and wrist pin will do to your bore/block? I'm all for getting the most for your money and taking calculated chances but, trying to run cast pistons in a blown engine is not a good idea.

How much power are you trying to make? Why do you want a blower? (for the look or to make power?). If it's for looks then just drop the boost down to 4psi or less and have at it. If you want to make power you need to get the parts to support it.

The best suggestion I have seen so far is to buy the book called Street Supercharging by SA Designs. Before you spend a dime on an engine part you need to buy this book and read up a bit. I always suggest this book to first time blower guys. I have a very old copy of the book that I read for years before I ever started playing with blowers. Once you read that book you will have the basic idea of what's going on and how things work. It does not have all the answers but, will give you the knowledge to ask questions and understand the answers.

I am in no way trying to discourage you, you'll love having a blown engine. You just need to build it right for the application. There's more to it than bolting on the blower, I know catalogs, web sites, ads, try to make it sound like ou just bolt on 250HP but, it doesn't work that way.

Royce
01-27-2007 04:51 PM
bonzipenguins Yeah a 165 thermostat
aluminum radiator(dont forget a tranny cooler)
better oil(thicker)
high flow water pump preferably
high flow oil pump
deeper pan
01-27-2007 04:26 PM
Artemis Entreri I'll probably be running a clutch fan at first, but once the engine is in and tuned one of the first things I will be doing is definantly putting big ol electric fans in.

Other then that, how do I keep the engine cool?
Keep a low temp thermostat in?
01-27-2007 03:50 PM
bonzipenguins I would think the cross member would get in the way,Plus most of the time the oil pan wont come off without lifting the engine,because the oil pump mostly.if I had to run hypers Id try to keep the engine as cool as possible.
01-27-2007 03:25 PM
Artemis Entreri Yea, Ive seen quite a few articles using stock rot assemblies with blowers making in the 500hp range, think im going to stick with hypers at first, canalways upgrade to forged.

I havent taken a engine apart yet, but I can change the pistons without pulling the engine from my car right?
Empty the oil
Pull thepan
Take off main caps
Crank and rot assembly will come out then correct?
01-27-2007 03:22 PM
bonzipenguins I know people crazier than me that have got by with cast one but i'd never go less than hyperutectic
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