|06-11-2003 06:04 AM|
|woodz428||Nos, the tool is called a hand impact friver, every Bike mechanic knows what they arem They are primarily used for phillips type case screws but have a 3/8" or 1/2" (depending on the mfg.) drive that you can put a socket on. They sell them at about every tool outlet concievable, from Harbor Freight to Sears.|
|06-06-2003 01:50 PM|
guess what guys?.. i got the bolts off one side.. they only needed a breaker bar to them!
but now tomorrow if its a nice day.. ill try to get the other ones off with the breaker bar.. thers alot of that under coating.. (i dont like it) lol thanks guys ..
|06-06-2003 10:28 AM|
|Nos||really.. whats it called?.. and where do you think i can get one at?..|
|06-06-2003 10:23 AM|
[quote]Originally posted by akm:
<strong>there is a type of impact screw driver(or something like that) that you hit with a hammer and it turns slightly to break bolts loose. does anyone know what i'm talking about?</strong><hr></blockquote>
You bet. I bought one a few years back to loosen the stripped crankcase bolts on my Suzuki. It only cost about $15 and saved me tons on agravation.
|06-05-2003 09:57 PM|
|Nos||ok... sounds like that could work|
|06-05-2003 08:15 PM|
If you have a plumbers propane torch you can use that to remove the undercoating from the bolts.
Once the goo is gone try soaking the nut in penetrating oil for a day or two.
If that doesn't work heat up the nuts and touch a wax candle to the nut. The heat sucks wax in the threads and can help the nut come off a little easier.
|06-05-2003 12:29 PM|
yea ill keep all that in mind! .. thanks for the help guys.. its been raining all day .. so i dont think i should do it today!.. well thanks again..
anything else i should know?
|06-05-2003 11:33 AM|
One more caveat. Make sure you're always aware of the things behind the item you're heating, if you decide to go that route. For example, if there's a piece of sheet metal behind the bolt, its going to get hot too. If the surface is painted, the paint could burn off. And what's mounted on the other side of that sheet metal? If its plastic, it will melt. If its fiber, it could catch fire. If its a fuel line, you're going to have a lot more problems than stuck bolts.
Be careful. You'll be literally "playing with fire".
|06-05-2003 11:29 AM|
I often resort to heating fasteners to loosen them, sometimes combined with penetrating oil. Heating them with a torch might allow you to burn the goop off too so the oil can get at the threads.
However, you have to be very careful and this isn't something I typically try on body metal, or on things I need to reuse. Works great on exhaust parts though.
Depending on the access and your tools, you can also drill out the center of the fastener. Sometimes you can get the walls thin enough that it will crush or at least deform enough to break loose. I often do this on delicate areas, where I can't risk damaging the surrounding material and I don't care about saving the fastener, but its very time consuming and, if you're too agressive and catch the fastener with the drill, you can sometimes twist the surrounding material, making a bad situation worse.
Personally, I'd try carefully burning off the goop (with a fire extinguisher close by), then alternate heating and spraying WD-40 a couple of times (the oil left on will catch fire with a flame - be ready for it and wipe the surface off first to minimize that.) I'd do all the bolts one at a time, then go back to the first one (since the oil will have started to dissolve in) and try to loosen them. If one or more were still obstinate, I'd just spray some more and go on to the next one. If they still don't budge, I'd spray them liberally and let them sit overnight. Once you've stripped the heads, it'll be a lot harder, no matter what you do. Better to be patient and let the oil and heat do their work. First you have to get the goop off though.
|06-05-2003 10:48 AM|
|Nos||ok ill try that.. someone else i asked if i just heat the bolt with a small torch it would come right out.. will that be ok?.. i mean the bolt is here ---> [|==== <---- and he said to heat this side for like 3 seconds and it should come right out with a wrench.. think that will work?.. it sounds like it will.. what do you guys think?|
|06-05-2003 06:22 AM|
|email@example.com||Gas and lacquer thinner would both work better as a tar solvent but they are both quite flammable and will evaporate before the tar is soft. Paint thinner is a good alternative solvent. A soaked rag will stay wet a long time giving more exposure of the solvent to the tar and over night, it should totally penetrate and soften the coating.|
|06-04-2003 05:11 PM|
ok gasoline is out of the ?.. akm im sorry i have no idea what your talking about.. you got a '65 right? .. im trying to get the bolts off right undder the front tires by the inner fender.. then i think the thing should come right off.. but them darn bolts wont budge.. ill have to try that paint thinner.. inless akm you can explaine to me what that thing is or can i like saw the bolts off or something.. then go buy some new ones! if thers a good cheep place to buy them.. if possaible.. thanks!
|06-04-2003 04:08 PM|
[quote]Originally posted by Nos:
<strong>sounds good.. will gas work?.. what kind of paint thinner?</strong><hr></blockquote>
Laquor Thinner should be plenty hot, and.......lets not use gasoline as a solvent.
|06-04-2003 03:17 PM|
|akm||there is a type of impact screw driver(or something like that) that you hit with a hammer and it turns slightly to break bolts loose. does anyone know what i'm talking about?|
|06-04-2003 12:57 PM|
|Nos||sounds good.. will gas work?.. what kind of paint thinner?|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|