|07-04-2007 08:06 AM|
|horvath||Unfortunately, with my '54 Chevy pickup, the windlace is a rubber affair with a special shape that slides into a channel around the door. The rubber is too thick to sew ... so I'm either going to have to glue something onto it (I don't like the idea of that) or leave it as black rubber and just try to dress it up with Armorall and see if that cuts the butter for me or not.|
|07-02-2007 09:11 AM|
You are right, I only sewed it once. Actually, sewing it again would be counterproductive, since you need to make relief cuts as you go around the corners of the door jambs, and those should be made as close to the original stitch line as possible. I used polyester #92 thread, which is the best to stand up to UV rays, and unless you cut into the thread when you're making your relief cuts, it should last a lifetime in a car.
BTW, I love it when you and Alan ask questions. You guys always ask something that everyone can benefit from.
|07-02-2007 08:36 AM|
I have a question for you, Dan - you knew that I would...
I noticed in your picture of the sewn windlace that you only stitched it once - just one pass through the machine. Is that all it needs? Do you move outward 1/4 inch and sew it again to give the seam some strength, or is that not needed for windlace?
|06-12-2007 09:15 AM|
Nice! I always stitch my windlace, too. Much better than just glue.
|06-11-2007 12:38 PM|
I can testify to that
|06-11-2007 12:10 PM|
Sewing new windlace
I have talked before about sewing windlace as opposed to gluing it. Here are some pictures of some black vinyl with simulated perforations sewn into windlace using 1/2" rubber sponge rod and sewn with a 3/4" welt foot. I also have a 5/8" welt foot that I use when making fabric covered windlace. This whole process took about 1/2 hour, and that included cutting out the fabric, changing the welt foot, and doing the sewing for 24 feet of windlace. That sure beats gluing it by a mile, and you can see it makes perfect windlace.