|01-25-2003 03:46 PM|
|Kevin45||If and I emphasize IF you build a garage and put up a block foundation have the foundation built up AT LEAST 2-3 feet then build the 8' walls on top of that. For around $2000 or a little less you can get a decent 2 post hoist or a 4 post drive on. With the taller foundation walls and standard stick built walls you will add only a couple of hundred more for the block laying but will save that in the savings from buying longer lumber. Plus with the taller foundation you can turn loose with a hose if you have to. Put in a phone. You never know when you got to call a bud up for a helping hand. Have a phone jack around the bench somewhere if you ever want to have a laptop out there. No need to run PVC in the slab when you can run wires above. Plan on a ceiling which is absolutely necessary if you plan on doing any painting. It will keep dust from collecting on top of the rafters, plus it will keep the heat down. Have a refrigerator for the brewskies. Run cable out there so you won't miss the latest on the car shows. Fix it up so when the buds come over to shoot the **** they can sit around and feel comfortable. I put a couple of bar stools at a counter just for convenience. I also have a wall between so I can park my ride (if I ever get it completed) and the other side is strictly for working. I'll snap a couple of pics and post them to show what it looks like. It's not big enough but it was all the room I had. I built it 28'x 36' and the stalls equal out to 14' on one side and 22' wide on the other. I was practically raised in a garage so when I finally got on I wanted it nice. I just wish I added the bathroom to it like my wife suggested but it would have been a problem with where the septic was, but if you can by all means do it. Run some extra phone wire just in case you want to add an intercom system between the house and garage. Run all your lines thru some kind of pipe underground (4" PVC would be good) and leave a rope in the line if you ever want or need to pull something thru. I also added 2 ceiling fans for the summer to move some air as a garage can get awful stuffy and in the winter it will pull the heat off of the ceiling and back down to where you need it. Sorry to go on but when I talk about my garage I tend to go on. That is one thing I am proud of. Whe we built it Weimer and I had it framed up in about a day and a half. Build it like you would live in it. You will be spending quite a bit of time in there so why not have all the creature comforts. Now all I have to do is get the carpet ordered so I don't have to lay on the cold concrete.|
|01-25-2003 01:09 PM|
|ssaza||A few years ago,i built a 32x36 garage,built it out of slump block to match the house,I put 3 garage doors on it,I bought 2 new roll up ones for the front and a used one for the rear,I got it set up where i can open both doors and drive thru into my back yard,problem is I have to much stuff to do that any more.The garage is to small now,I think that they are never large enough,Cost about $7500,did a lot of work myself.Make your tall enought for a lift.Good luck|
|01-25-2003 07:03 AM|
|77Cobra||I built a 24 by 36 post frame metal building last year with 16 by 8 overhead door 10 foot side walls one walk in door 2 windows and poured my floor myself ( with help from friends of course),wired it with plenty of outlets 110 and three 220, 8- 4 foot flourescent lights,bought a 30 gallon 5 HP air compressor, a used Hobart wire welder,cutoff saw,and plumbing for my air lines and insulated the whole shop for under 8,000.00.Pretty good I thought.I got the building from Menards for 2800.00 without the insulation.|
|01-23-2003 05:58 PM|
More garage thoughts,
**** MUST HAVES: ****
* GOOD fire extinguisher - not just the same
size as you keep in your car.
* Good First Aid kit (more than band-aids)
should include eye wash & butterfly strips
* Good stereo
* Get a big-assed squirrel cage fan from HVAC
guys, they really move a lot of air.
Available and cheap.
If you're even THINKING of a lift, PLAN now for it. You need a 6" slab under the lift. A little more forming and extra concrete will pay off BIG time when you put the lift in.
Spend the extra $$ and seal the fresh concrete with 2-part epoxy floor paint. Do it before you put anything in the garage. ( A fresh burnout is cool, but) the finished floor is money WELL spent... and it will stick to a fresh floor / it wont' stick to old grease or oil stains. It makes cleanups a breeze.
Think about a floor drain - enables you to wash down everything. Depending on zoning or restrictions in your neighborhood.
You can never have enough electrical outlets. Conduit and wire are easy to run. Many contractors will work with you - you run the conduit, pull the wire and hang the boxes (the time consuming work they don't really want to do), then they come in and hook things up to code - saves you money and meets inspections.
Gotta have a big stereo. (I find a TV a distraction to what I'm working on, but hey that's just me.) If the shop is far away from the house, get a couple of hand-held walkie talkies. You never know when you need an extra hand.
If you're lucky enough to build a big garage, set aside one area for a 'tool crib' where you can store big things (welder, cherry picker, extra engine stands & less frequently used tools) You always need them, but you know where they are.
Think vertical storage - If you have enough height, you can easily build a loft and store household crap up there without sacrificing valuable floorspace.
I'm sure you've seen enough of your buddy's shops and picked up on slick tricks/useful pieces you can encorporate in your garage. I spent a lot of time desinging & planning mine. It makes it a lot of fun to go to the shed and work on cars when the shop
|01-23-2003 01:32 PM|
|bullheimer||definitely listen to 49 tnc. even i screwed up and didn't put a pipe in for electrical, and i teach the stuff!! have to use a 3/4" hammer drill now to make room for 1/2" conduit. all i need are a coupla lights, its a former shed i'm selling off in a coupla months. i used 6 yards of fiber mesh mix for the "mono-pour" footings and slab at same time for a 12x22" garage. on the week ends it is $10 more per yard. it came to $580. my bud did the finish work. now i have to price a roll up door.|
|01-23-2003 09:55 AM|
BEFORE the slab is laid, run lots of PVC chases under the slab. PVC is cheap and easy to run. So much easier/cheaper before the mud goes down.
Stub them up and use cap 'em off. Use them to run wire for lights, air & water after the building is up. You can never have enough lights. check with your local School board - (repository). Our local one sells off lots of great stuff. 4' or 8' flourscent lights $1 each (with bulbs). I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner (big enough for a carb or handgun) for $5. I don't think they knew what it was. I also got some lockers from a GYM. I use them for POL storage.
Locate your compressor AS FAR AWAY from the garage as you can. (noise conflicts with stereo.)
Setup motion detectors 4'-5' up the wall. A dog/cat won't set them of, but an upright(unwanted) person will set it off.
Leave the phone out of the garage, get used refrig (big-boy sodas). Get a used portable dishwasher. Use it (instead of the one in the house) to clean parts - Cheap and works great!
Hang the speakers from the ceiling, they won't take up workspace.
[ January 23, 2003: Message edited by: 49 T&C ]</p>
|01-22-2003 01:21 PM|
|beetle9||I had a 30 x 40 pole barn built in 1997. It was a cashway lumber package (I believe they operate in ohio). It has two metal doors w/elec openers, 1 metal entrance door, two metal sliding windows, is vinly sided, shingled roof and all wood. The kit cost 6500.oo and another 3,000.00 to have it erected. Cement set me back about 1500.00. I wired it myself (materials about 250.00 and lights about 250.00). It is not insulated, but I can heat it up very quickly with 110000 but salamander. I think it's a good setup, but you can see what it cost and compare. Good luck|
|01-21-2003 08:44 PM|
Right now I have a 25x30 foot shop in the back yard. Its nice and all BUT it is not big enough.
get one bigger than you think you need cos' it ain't gonna be. and definately get the slab.
and while your at it, I would run some plumbing out there too. might as well.....
|01-21-2003 05:40 PM|
For $6200 you can put up a pretty nice stick build on a slab.
|01-21-2003 05:31 AM|
Well, I think it is a bit high, but it depends on what you want. I went with a cut, fab and weld kit. Basically just all the materials. Also, I have not seen any sheet metal warrantied for over 20 years. It is only warrantied not to fade for 20 and against catostrophic failure for less, usually around 5 years. Just some of that good ole fine print. It cost me $5000 for my 30x40x12 steel building delivered. I also did my own concrete work on the buddy system and it cost me $1500 for costruction materials and concrete.
I am however, very thrifty and found the absolute most economical way to build my dream shop. I figure I am not going to pay for any work I can do myself.
Also, I would save for a little longer and get that concrete floor. You will be much happier.
|01-20-2003 10:58 PM|
|firstname.lastname@example.org||also the best invetment I ever made is installing a single post hydraulic hoist (runs by air compresser). Bought it used from a local service station supplier for $75. They are jerking them out of the ground as they tear out old service stations and new stations use modern surface mounted or dual post hoists. Add another $75 for the hydraulic oil, $35 for a new control valve, dig an 8'deep hole and run 1/2" air line to it, descale the outside of the hoist container, POR15 and tar coat the container, install it in the hole level w/ the concrete slab, dump a couple of sacks of cement for a bottom footing, back fill the hole and finish the slab to the contianer, install a new piston seal and oil. Now you can change oil and brakes sitting in a chair!|
|01-20-2003 10:03 PM|
Your price seems reasonable. I just built a 24 by 28 with wooden framing. I poured the footer and foundation then built the structure. I plan on pouring the floor next year when I have the $$.
It cost me about $300 for the wood to build the forms ( most of which I can reuse )and about $445 for the concrete. I hired a couple of guys to help with the pour ( see my post about Bill" ).
The garage package cost $4200 w/ 9 ft walls, 16 by 8 insulated steel door, shingles etc. It did not include electrical, drywall, siding or an opener. The steel package was at least $1500 more.
BTW prices are in Canadian $$.
|01-20-2003 09:13 PM|
I was faced with this very question about 5 years ago. I drew up some plans using conventional building materials, made a materials list, and priced it at several building supply stores. There was as much as $300 diference in some of the suppliers. This would be the only accurate way to do it. In my case, it was about $2,000 cheaper to use the conventional building supplies over the metel building. I ended up building my own 24X30 garage, planning every work bench, ac outlet, compressor location, etc into the project before I started building. This was truely my dream garage and a job that used to take me 2 hours I can now do in 30 minutes because I have everthing at my fingertips.
I think you would be a lot better off installing your concrete first before the building goes up. The cost will be less because it is easier for the trucks and workers to get in there to pour and smooth the concrete. Also, I would recomend a combination of fibered concrete and wire mesh to prevent the concrete from cracking. This is something you will need right from the beginning if you want to work on your cars in the shop. The slab I had pored was $2200 but I am sure the price would be higher now.
|01-20-2003 06:21 PM|
need opinions on new garage
I am looking at putting up a new garage. I got an offer for a new steel building 24'x30'x10'. It will be fully insulated, walls and roof. Four skylights, 8'x8' door on the end of the building and 1 framed entry door. It's a complete building with all trim with a 50 year warranty. I have to put in the foundation for the building, which consists of 8 concrete pillars and frostwall. Concrete floor could come later as money allows. The offer I got was for the complete building materials delivered for $6,200. Does this sound like a good deal?