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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2008 06:51 PM
dhunt00c Im good then. You've been alot of help. Greatly appreciate it.

I ended up shimming the valve springs. I with with .09 on all except for the very front and rear exhaust valves. With them I went with .075. They we all deep and I'm pretty sure they won't walk..... those 4 outers didn't have as much ridget around them so I went a little less.
05-24-2008 06:32 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhunt00c
Uhoh.... i read this last one too late Bogie. I heated the crank gear on my stove top burner pretty good and got it to slide right on with some light taps. All is well there, long as i didnt get it too hot. It wasn't red hot or anyting, but it went on smoothly. I won't heat the balancer.

Surely I didn't get it too hot such that I hurt the gear?

Thanks for all the help fella's.
If you avoided heating it into a color change zone, it's most likely OK.

Bogie
05-24-2008 06:30 PM
dhunt00c Uhoh.... i read this last one too late Bogie. I heated the crank gear on my stove top burner pretty good and got it to slide right on with some light taps. All is well there, long as i didnt get it too hot. It wasn't red hot or anyting, but it went on smoothly. I won't heat the balancer.

Surely I didn't get it too hot such that I hurt the gear?

Thanks for all the help fella's.
05-24-2008 03:31 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhunt00c
I've heard you're supposed to use a little anti-seize lube when installing the balancer on the crank, but does the same apply when pressing on the timing gear onto the crank?

Also, whats the recommendation out there? Heat it up super hot or use a tool to press it on?

Many thanks!
The way I set these up, is timing gear should lightly press on, it may take a driver made from a length of pipe which can then be lightly tapped upon with a hammer or screwed down with the damper retaining bolt. I put some engine oil on the inside of the gear and on the crank snout to ease assembly. If it goes much harder than hand pressure, disassemble and look for burrs or out of round places and dress these just enough to eliminate any physical interference.

For the damper, I assemble the timing cover loose so it can be adjusted by the crank seal centering on the damper hub, this usually means pulling the locating pins. The damper should fit snugly on the shaft. At the same time it should not have any burred surfaces that interfere with the crank, dress these as necessary. I like to use anti-seize on this assembly because the nature of the fit causes what's called fretting of the adjacent surfaces from the constant vibrations through this joint. Also, this joint is exposed to the weather, so water will penetrate and cause corrosion unless the surfaces are protected. don't worry about anti-seize getting into the engine, it's just aluminum powder dispersed in oil. The oil eventually works out leaving a mico layer of powdered aluminum in the jointed area. The damper is pulled on using the retention bolt or an installation tool. See at: http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27100

It is not a good idea to heat either the crank gear or the damper. The gear is heat treated for a hard wearing surface, raising it's temperature can remove the metal's hardening treatment.

The damper is usually a 2 piece affair with an outer ring rubber bonded to an inner hub. It doesn't take much heating to destroy the rubber bond rendering the damper useless even if it doesn't fly apart. One piece competition rated dampers either have a viscus oil or a mechanism inside them, they are ruined by heating.

Bogie
05-24-2008 03:30 PM
dhunt00c Dam that beer sounds good!!! It says its an "interference fit" crank sprocket and to use a tool in the instructions.

Guess I'll to rent one. it goes on easy until its about flush with the end of the crank, and no more.
05-24-2008 03:19 PM
fordSR I'll bet you have an aftermarket gear, and if you do it will be made in China. None of the aftermarket products that are sold by the street rod vendors fit like the OEM parts. GM required the suppliers of assemble parts and that includes every part on a GM automobile to be within specs and if the part didn't fit, GM sent it back to the vendor. That doesn't happen to the Chinese parts because we are so happy to get something realitivy close, were happy.

Your gear should not need heating to slide on, it should go on with little effort. Like I said, if you got this gear from Summit, Jegs, Crane, Comp, etc. it will be made in China.

Sorry for the rant.............been blocking rear quarters on my '58 all day and nothing went right. I think I'll go have a beer.

Jim
05-24-2008 03:18 PM
dhunt00c i checked it pretty good. its very snug. dont want to force or bang on it
05-24-2008 02:47 PM
curtis73
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhunt00c
Really? Its a 350 SB. I had heck getting the old one off (used a puller). I've always seen guys heat it up almost red hot to get them on.

I put this one in the oven for 20 mins or so and got it pretty darn hot and still couldn't get it on.

Yeah, they get stuck on and usually require a puller to get off, but then again you can't get a mallet in behind them to take them off either.

Have you checked the keyway for obstructions? Burrs on the key? If the key isn't seated in the keyway it will never go on.
05-24-2008 02:42 PM
techinspector1 Same experience as Curtis73. A little motor oil on the snout and it should tap on.
05-24-2008 02:02 PM
dhunt00c Really? Its a 350 SB. I had heck getting the old one off (used a puller). I've always seen guys heat it up almost red hot to get them on.

I put this one in the oven for 20 mins or so and got it pretty darn hot and still couldn't get it on.
05-24-2008 02:00 PM
curtis73 Not sure what engine you're building, but the timing gear should just go on without much fuss.... but either way, you DON'T want anti-seize on it. The oil will wash it off during operation and then you are purposely introducing metal flakes and other odd chemicals into your engine.

I just tap it on with a socket and a rubber mallet. Its supposed to be a .001" press fit on most engines, which means you should be able to push it on with your fingers most of the way.
05-24-2008 01:52 PM
dhunt00c
Crank Timing Gear - Anti-sieze??

I've heard you're supposed to use a little anti-seize lube when installing the balancer on the crank, but does the same apply when pressing on the timing gear onto the crank?

Also, whats the recommendation out there? Heat it up super hot or use a tool to press it on?

Many thanks!

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