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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-04-2008 07:02 PM
Olds86 Well I pulled the pvc to see if it made any difference as far as the dipstick, but it was still sitting off the the tube a bit, but I did look down inside the valve covers and the baffles really do look a lil tight, I'm going to try opening those up a bit and giving it another try. I've also been reading up on the leak down test and how to perform one as well that you referenced earlier. I'm really hoping their isn't a problem w/the rings.... I was trying to do little things first before jumping into this engine thing, didn't want to jump in the deep end first. With having to pull and re-ring the engine.
09-03-2008 09:02 PM
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Pull out the PCV and have a look. You may be feeding it 93 but of it needs 97..... You don;t always here the detonation, especially at high rpm. Smoke or steam out the exhaust could be head gasket trouble. Also a indication of detonation from excessive compression ratio/lack of fuel octane. There is not free lunch. Water injection does a good job of eliminating detonation on high compression motors that really need more octane that whats at the pump.

I'd do a compression test and a leak down test to see how the ring seal is.
How long should I have to remove the pvc for the smoking to stop? Will it be immediate or will it take some time. The problem that I'm running into is I'm very new at all this stuff and actually about to start attempting to do all....ehh most of the work on my car myself... I'm tired of paying someone to do something that with the right tools I could probably do myself, tired of being on someone elses schedule when I'm paying...and last but not least paying for labor that could be going towards buying better parts...So I have no idea how I'd proform a compression leak down test or any of that stuff, is there a more kinder, gentler way to check it?
09-03-2008 04:16 PM
Olds86 How can I tell if I have sufficient breather capacity? That I'm not really sure of, and I don't know know to check it either. The ring problem I've heard a couple of times, but I've never put anything less the 93 in the car and even mix in a lil racing gas every now and then. I do have smoking out of the tailpipes also, nothing at idle but quite a bit at WOT. Engine isn't tapping, knocking or making any other strange sounds, and runs really strong. I've also been told that the smoking out of the tailpipes could be caused by oil being sucked into the pvc as well, any possible truth to that?
09-03-2008 10:02 AM
Olds86 Thats good to know I've been having so many problems out of this car, I haven't really had a chance to enjoy it. I've had starter problems, push rod problems, flywheel problems, electrical charging problems, shock, rear-end problems, and now for some reason the dipstick won't stay seated keeps pushing up out of the the holder.... I do know the the couple of times I've really been to get on it it ran real strong.
09-27-2007 08:33 PM
Olds86 Already got one!
09-27-2007 07:36 PM
Olds86 Well because I already have the Vortec heads, thats probably the engine I'll go ahead and build.
09-27-2007 07:09 PM
Olds86 Another 86 Oldsmobile Cutlass, I had one with a 350 bored .60 over, flat top pistons, Vortec heads, roller rockers, bigger springs, screw in studs, EX294 cam, Air-Gap Intake, 700r4 trans w/3000 stall converter and 3.73 gear drove it about a week before it was stolen...
09-27-2007 06:55 PM
Olds86 Ok thats something that I will really take to heart the long term, after the excitement has gone satisfaction of the motor and how it drives on the street. Wouldn't a vacuum canister resolve the problem with the brakes?
09-27-2007 06:27 PM
Olds86 Okay I really do appreciate all of this great info on this engine build, I do know that these are to separate combos and not to mix and match I like both builds, but I'm not sure which to go with, now I'm not going to set here and say money is no object because it is, but I also don't want to finally get it all together and wish I would have spent another couple of hundred dollars and done this or that differently either because don't nothing cost more then doing it again. So out of these two builds what do you think the characteristics of each would be? Which would you build?
09-27-2007 05:54 PM
Olds86 So what your saying is order a XE294 ground on a 107 LSA hyd tappet cam direct from Comp Cam and use 1.6 rockers instead of going hyd roller? and then just keep the Vortec set-up w/changed pistons, or use PN10621122 keep the pistons I got and use that special ordered hyd flat tappet cam? Like your already aware of I'm after a great strip/street motor that I can be more then proud of. Your right about selling the Vortecs there in really good condition, I get so caught up with buying stuff off e-bay that I forget I can sell stuff to.
09-27-2007 04:52 PM
Olds86 Well I was just weighing my options, I really do appreciate your info the engine will probably be built using the first set of specs you gave me anyway, but I wanted to get and learn as much as I possibly could. One last question does the price of a hydraulic roller cam outweigh the benefits or do you see a hydraulic doing the job just fine?
09-27-2007 04:28 PM
Olds86 Okay...Okay...I see it ain't gonna work, but I just liked those heads you referred me to, but I see I can't use them "Dang". so what do you think about the Dart Iron Eagle Platinum w/215 intake runner and 72cc w/either the XE294 cam and VIC JR intake.
09-27-2007 02:57 PM
Olds86 Thanx! For the link Tom I will definitely read through not only that one article, but all info on that website!
09-27-2007 02:53 PM
machine shop tom There is a good article in the latest Engine Builder magazine that has some good info on heads and breathing.

The guys interviewed in the article are tops in the field. It's well worth reading.

09-27-2007 02:45 PM
Olds86 So do you think that was the "0" decked block and aluminum heads the "Summit Brand" my CR would be in that 10.3 range, please say yes because the more I look at those heads the more I want them, and I've spoken the machine shop in my area and I'll have to pay around $450 to change to screw in studs, bigger springs and a good reworking. Not to mention the specific intake and roller rocker arms I'll have to be that could only be used w/Vortec heads.
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