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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-04-2008 07:02 PM
Olds86 Well I pulled the pvc to see if it made any difference as far as the dipstick, but it was still sitting off the the tube a bit, but I did look down inside the valve covers and the baffles really do look a lil tight, I'm going to try opening those up a bit and giving it another try. I've also been reading up on the leak down test and how to perform one as well that you referenced earlier. I'm really hoping their isn't a problem w/the rings.... I was trying to do little things first before jumping into this engine thing, didn't want to jump in the deep end first. With having to pull and re-ring the engine.
09-04-2008 05:10 AM
F-BIRD'88 Just look inside the PCV hose for signs of oil migration.
Aftermarket valve covers are infamous for poor breather baffling and mislocated pcv holes. If the pcv is functional and the opposing valve cover is well vented then the dipstick comming out indicates serious trouble.
You can use google to find the proceedure on leak down testing.
09-03-2008 09:02 PM
Olds86
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Pull out the PCV and have a look. You may be feeding it 93 but of it needs 97..... You don;t always here the detonation, especially at high rpm. Smoke or steam out the exhaust could be head gasket trouble. Also a indication of detonation from excessive compression ratio/lack of fuel octane. There is not free lunch. Water injection does a good job of eliminating detonation on high compression motors that really need more octane that whats at the pump.
www.snowperformance.net

I'd do a compression test and a leak down test to see how the ring seal is.
How long should I have to remove the pvc for the smoking to stop? Will it be immediate or will it take some time. The problem that I'm running into is I'm very new at all this stuff and actually about to start attempting to do all....ehh most of the work on my car myself... I'm tired of paying someone to do something that with the right tools I could probably do myself, tired of being on someone elses schedule when I'm paying...and last but not least paying for labor that could be going towards buying better parts...So I have no idea how I'd proform a compression leak down test or any of that stuff, is there a more kinder, gentler way to check it?
09-03-2008 06:30 PM
F-BIRD'88 Pull out the PCV and have a look. You may be feeding it 93 but of it needs 97..... You don;t always here the detonation, especially at high rpm. Smoke or steam out the exhaust could be head gasket trouble. Also a indication of detonation from excessive compression ratio/lack of fuel octane. There is not free lunch. Water injection does a good job of eliminating detonation on high compression motors that really need more octane that whats at the pump.
www.snowperformance.net

I'd do a compression test and a leak down test to see how the ring seal is.
09-03-2008 04:16 PM
Olds86 How can I tell if I have sufficient breather capacity? That I'm not really sure of, and I don't know know to check it either. The ring problem I've heard a couple of times, but I've never put anything less the 93 in the car and even mix in a lil racing gas every now and then. I do have smoking out of the tailpipes also, nothing at idle but quite a bit at WOT. Engine isn't tapping, knocking or making any other strange sounds, and runs really strong. I've also been told that the smoking out of the tailpipes could be caused by oil being sucked into the pvc as well, any possible truth to that?
09-03-2008 03:35 PM
F-BIRD'88 Well the dip stick being pushed out of its tube at WOT (assuming you have sufficient valve cover breather capacity) indicates that there is a lot of pressure in the crank case. This is caused by excessive blowby past the rings. Blow by is an indication that the rings are being upset. A major cause is detonation from excessive compression ratio and low octane fuel.
This detonation eventually (doesn't very take long) damages the pistons rings and the piston ring lands (distortion) and piston ring/cylinder wall seal.
The motor becomes an "old, worn out motor" before its time.
Other possible causes are incorrectly installed piston rings. incorrect second ring end gap, scuffed rings or piston skirts. insufficiant valve cover venting, preventing the piston rings from sealing on initial engine breakin, or fuel wash damage of the cylinder walls. (excessive fuel flooding wash past the piston rings { washes the oil off the cylinders allowing metal to metal contact ( scuffing)
A cylinder leak down test will verify this. If the piston ring lands are not damaged/distorted and the piston skirts are not scuffed, then a rering with cylinder rehone often will restore the combustion seal quality.
If the cause is not corrected then the damage and ring seal failure will quickly reoccur.
The pistons and rods would need carefull inspection. Often detoantion will distort the piston pin hole diameter and rod big end diameter as well as kill the bearings.
Another possible cause of poor ring seal/blowby is a bent connecting rod.
This is why I warn against building with excessive compression ratio on street pump gas motors. Its very expensive to fight the laws of physics. Much cheaper to work within these laws in the long term.

I like to add a moly lube treatment to my new engines to treat the internal parts to help prevent metal to metal scuffing.
www.molyslip.com
09-03-2008 10:02 AM
Olds86 Thats good to know I've been having so many problems out of this car, I haven't really had a chance to enjoy it. I've had starter problems, push rod problems, flywheel problems, electrical charging problems, shock, rear-end problems, and now for some reason the dipstick won't stay seated keeps pushing up out of the the holder.... I do know the the couple of times I've really been to get on it it ran real strong.
09-03-2008 07:14 AM
F-BIRD'88 Just to follow up on this 9.8:1 cr 406 vortec buildup discussion. I recently track tested this (my version) engine combo. Cranked off 11.94 et @115.15 mph in a 3530LB typical street car w/driver.
Street trim thru the mufflers. Didn't even lift the hood.
09-27-2007 08:33 PM
Olds86 Already got one!
09-27-2007 07:54 PM
F-BIRD'88 Don;t forget the Rottweiler for the back seat this time.
09-27-2007 07:36 PM
Olds86 Well because I already have the Vortec heads, thats probably the engine I'll go ahead and build.
09-27-2007 07:27 PM
F-BIRD'88 well i would build the vortec 406 and run a th-350 with a 11" "3000 stall" and 3.73 or 4.10's. You'll need some real sticky tires like the M/T Et streets.
be sure to hang on when ya punch 'er.
09-27-2007 07:09 PM
Olds86 Another 86 Oldsmobile Cutlass, I had one with a 350 bored .60 over, flat top pistons, Vortec heads, roller rockers, bigger springs, screw in studs, EX294 cam, Air-Gap Intake, 700r4 trans w/3000 stall converter and 3.73 gear drove it about a week before it was stolen...
09-27-2007 07:02 PM
F-BIRD'88 Trust me on this one build the milder combo. Whats it going in?
09-27-2007 06:55 PM
Olds86 Ok thats something that I will really take to heart the long term, after the excitement has gone satisfaction of the motor and how it drives on the street. Wouldn't a vacuum canister resolve the problem with the brakes?
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