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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-08-2012 11:25 AM
1936 Ford Pickup on a 1998 Ranger frame

I built a 1936 ford pickup on a 1998 Ranger frame. I used a fiberglass cab and fiberglass front and rear fenders. Has a steel bed with and aluminum floor. 350 S/B with a 700-R4 trans. It has power disk brakes all the way around and power steering. It drives great.
11-29-2010 08:53 PM
hay I am in the middle of restoring my 36 pickup

I took the original frame from the 36 ford and put a mustang II front suspention rack and pinion and all that then took an 8.8 rear end from a lincoln and put in it then I bought some 5 lug roaters form speedway mag so the front and back would have the same lug pattern. but I welded and fabricated most of the new brackets I am sure you could do the same. I also built new motor mounts for a 289ci and a c6 tranny out of a 67' galaxie. It is all coming to gether smoothly the Only Hickup I had was the ride highth is the rear and that was fixed by sortening the coial springs that came with the rear end. but like I said I would Be easy to do the same for yours. and to fix the frame all you have to do is notch it were you are replacing the old rusted peices in a v grooves or fish grooves so the slip to gether and weld them up this will help keep the frame strong and keep it from cracking next to the weld bead.
09-10-2008 11:44 PM
MARTINSR I don't get the whole frame swap thing. The early frame is a simple piece of beauty, the late frames are ugly as a boil on my ars, I don't get it.

The time it takes to modify the frame, floor, motor mounts.........on and on and on, you could update the stock frame and be driving it with a smile on your face.

I don't get it, just don't get it.

09-08-2008 08:01 AM
59 wagon man i have an assembly manual for the thorobread conversion. if there is something you need let me know. i saw them in person and wwas impressed. had the idea of using one as a delivery truck for my plumbing company but it didn't work out
09-07-2008 08:23 PM
Stilll thinking about a frame?

I've got a rolling chassis from my 36 Ford Coupe. Let me know if your interested....
12-20-2006 08:57 PM
lakota cboy, Thanks for the kind words. I'll get more done with pictures when I can. Right now I'm taking more training with the fire dept. Three days and two nights of class room plus a twelve hour shift on the weekend.
I still haven't changed out the rearend, extended and welded the steering shaft, or even bought rims and tires yet. I'm in the middle of helping my wife change out an engine in her 70 Ford pick-up.
12-19-2006 11:45 AM
farna What was the problem with the MII from in the 64 Ranchero? The only thing I can think of is it's not much of an improvement. the suspension design isn't that much different from the original Ranchero design except for the spring placement. The high spring on the original design is very roll resistant -- much more than the MII. You'll need a stout roll bar with the MII suspension whereas the original really didn't need one for normal driving. The real benefits of the MII design over the original is the MII has built in anti-dive (shouldn't nose down as much as the original) and parts availability. Parts aren't real hard to get for the 64 Ranchero suspension though.

The MII is about as much of a "universal" suspension as you can find, but it's not a big improvement over everything. It's great for cars without an good independent suspension or one that's hard to find parts for. Anything else you're compromising the orignal engineering that went into the car.

In this case (64 Ranchero), I don't think there are any real advantages to the MII design at all, unless you need to get rid of the spring towers or you're building something that you need to change parts around a lot on. Maybe a road racer that you'll be setting up for different tracks and need to change or adjust the srpings. If you just want to improve ride and handling, 10-20% stiffer progressive rate springs to replace the originals makes a world of diference. Coil Spring specialties will wind the coils to your specs for the same price as stock replacements, just takes 2-3 weeks lead time.
12-18-2006 08:04 AM
cboy I recommend lakota's web site (see link in his post above) for anybody anticipating a frame swap like this. Good job on providing lots of detail and measurements. Hope to see the rest of the pictures and text soon.
12-18-2006 01:17 AM
enough money can do anything

I have seen some wild combos. 55 chevy on a 76 olds chassis,67 elcamino on a 74 blazer chassis with 44in super swampers and 500cuin caddilac engine,34 chevy sedan on chevelle chassis, and finally a 65 vw lengthened and widened and put on a cj5 jeep chassis. All these done by an old hippie body man down in mobile alabama. He has lots of time and many many years of experience 35plus. You would probably be better off upgrading the suspension. Fatman Fabrications could probably suggest the easiest upgrades for your application. Good luck. Brian
12-17-2006 11:16 PM
lakota The Ford Ranger frame is best suited to the Bonus Builts (48-52 Ford pick-up). There is a 1" to 1 1/2" difference in the position of the front wheels. I believe the fiberglass body was made to compensate for this. I looked at the ranger frame when I was ready to do the swap on my 52 Ford pick-up. After seeing that the frame was unique to itself, and no other Ford parts will bolt up to it, I walked away from it. I later opted for an S-10 swap. No, the S-10 won't be a good swap for a 35 either. Look for a good 35-40 car or truck frame, and go from there. If you want IFS, power steering, and power disc brakes then you'll have to spend some money on an IFS system from a manufacturer or cheap out and get one from a donor car. There are a couple of dozen magazines out there that cater to the 30's pick-ups. If you still want to do a frame swap then check out my website and you can see how much work is involved.
12-14-2006 07:32 AM
Fasteddy Thanks guys for the input. This type of dialog really helps. Unlike in the days of my youth I try to really plan these things out. Fasteddy
12-13-2006 11:45 PM
2-manytoyzs The company that was building the 35-36 glass body was on a ranger frame. The back of the cab was notched on both sides for the Ranger frame because the frame sits higher in that area. You can put a 35 on the Ranger frame and do the same notch in the back of the cab. but you still have to make mounts for all the rest of the body parts. Either way, its a lot of work.

That company was out of Florida and used to advertise on street Rodder about 10 years ago.

Car frames (35-40) are the same except for 4 body mounts welded on the outside. Pickup frames (35-41) were the same as car frames but without the body mounts. The pickup cab is mounted on the frame through a piece of wood shaped to match the curve of the frame and the straight body floor.

I have 35 truck thats been waiting its turn for 21 years. Just got 2 many toys ahead of it.
12-13-2006 07:16 PM
matt167 there is a company that sells 1936 Ford P/U Fiberglass bodies that fit on ranger frames, but I do not know if there dimensions were " Adjusted " from original to fit the Ranger frame. the factory frame will be fine.
12-13-2006 04:09 PM
Nightfire Dont re-invent the wheel. The frames worked great from the factory, why wouldnt they work great for you? Get a different frame from any 36-40 Ford. Hit up ebay, your local classfieds, wherever you can find one. Just get the bare frame. Then you can mount everything from your old frame on the new one. I would suggest getting a better rear-end (10-bolt GM's or 9 inch Fords work great) if your upgrading engine. You can get front-end rebuild kits that'll make your car handle like fresh of the assembly line (back in '36 haha).
The ranger frarme, it might work it might not. What I can tell you for sure, everybody will notice that its sitting on a different frame. Either the wheels will stick out too much or not enough, or they wont be centered in the fenderwells etc. It HARD, very hard to make a frame swap look nice...

12-13-2006 03:59 PM
35WINDOW Fasteddy,

If you don't have any luck with your idea, let me know-I do believe I might be able to help you with a original Frame (about 300 Miles away), but I do go through Junction a lot, so I might be able to help get it to you-
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