|10-06-2008 09:28 PM|
Thanks for the input, OHD. I hadn't thought of making it removable, but that sounds like a plan. Thanks again, Rod
|10-04-2008 09:12 PM|
|OHD||On manual transmissions with floor mounted shifters, I just make a removable cover that comes completely up and out to service/adjust the clutch, shifter, and rods.. If a rollover mounted trans is used you can also service the trans.|
|09-26-2008 12:34 PM|
on the behalf of all who posted, thank you for saying thanks and your welcome...
|09-25-2008 07:44 PM|
Thanks, red65mustang, I hadn't thought about the heat factor yet, but I'll have to. techinspector1, that's an interesting concept about building a frame around an interior, amazing. Thanks to both of you, Rod
|09-21-2008 08:14 PM|
|techinspector1||It's interesting to note that when us hotrodders build a car, we normally start with the frame and then find a place for everything. When purpose-built tube frame cars are put together, all the components are hung in space at the appropriate positions in the car, then the frame is constructed with curves, bends and whatever else to intersect the components and tie them in. In other words, the frame is the last thing that goes into the car.|
|09-20-2008 01:28 PM|
think ahead a step, to be sure you won't run into exhaust pipes/downshift linkage/etc interference....
there is alot of radiant engine and pipes btu's heat that wants to come up thru that big panel into the cab.....
I'd consider making a good part of it a double wall with a open air gap to keep the heat out of the cab....
1/2" to the reflector panel and 1/4-1/2" gap from that to the cab panel is more than plenty good for reflecting/losing 90% of the heat (same as a steel fireplace metal chimney construction)
|09-20-2008 11:56 AM|
Thanks for the comment, techinspector1. Sounds like a plan, Rod
|09-16-2008 05:03 PM|
That's a trick I learned from the custom motorcycle guys...that's how you position a snug fitting front fender to mount it and maintain enough tire clearance so a rock caught in the tread does not wipe out the paint when it cuts a dent from the inside out of the fender as it rolls through.
|09-16-2008 04:30 PM|
"Try laying some 1/4 or 5/16 ID rubber hose over the trans, tape it down, then let the tunnel rest on it while you fit it to the floor."
|09-15-2008 08:30 PM|
Thanks, Duece and powerrodsmike for the advice. Thanks for the pictures, Deuce. You've both been very helpful. I'll try the hose thing. It sounds like it would work. Thanks again, Rod
|09-15-2008 07:47 AM|
That's no moving blanket...that's some sort of well disguised terrorist bomb. Note the electronic detonating device hooked up to it on the right. (Um, or maybe it's just an electric blanket to pre heat his transmission.)
|09-15-2008 07:42 AM|
|09-15-2008 01:21 AM|
Hey Deuce, I like that picture of a wadded up moving blanket you used as a trans tunnel...Now that's being resourceful
2 inches is too much. No pedal room. Maybe at the top it would be ok, but at the sides it would cause problems.
I build them with no less than 1/2" clearance from any point on the trans or associated parts. Nothing ever rattles with 1/2" clearance, as far as I know.( hit a bump that will shake the body and motor on their mounts enough to move them 1/2" and the sound of the trans hitting the floor is much quieter than the sound of your head hitting the roof )
Try laying some 1/4 or 5/16 ID rubber hose over the trans, tape it down, then let the tunnel rest on it while you fit it to the floor.
|09-14-2008 11:23 PM|
I usually try for one inch clearance ... have not had any problems with any of my builds.
I dislike a big, over sized tunnel. On a 39 Ford ... it would not be as bad as in a 32 Ford. The smaller the tunnel, the easier it is to get the accelerator over further away from the brake pedal and the steering column.
|09-14-2008 09:19 PM|
Moving to general rodding tech..
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|