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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> I want to put my car on a diet. Who has done this, starting weight? Ending weight?
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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-03-2009 02:20 PM
Jon Thanks Tomlowe523 ; just saw that the wiki article had been updated with info on sprung vs. unsprung weight.

Do we have a source we can cite for the sprung/unsprung tenfold weight factor?
08-03-2009 06:57 AM
Tomlowe523 I didn't see that anyone had posted this, and this is an old thread anyways but. Taking one pound of unsprung weight (anything not supported by the suspension) is like removing 10 pounds of sprung weight (anything supported by the suspension).
07-29-2009 05:32 PM
Jon This was wiki'd a while back, here:

Reducing vehicle weight.

The Nose weight vs. tail weight section could use some confirmation, with more info added to the battery relocation details.
07-29-2009 09:52 AM
upstand2 Ditch that pwr steering for a S10 manual box.
07-29-2009 01:07 AM
Originally Posted by Jeff The Ruler
you could move the battery rearward.
Excellent. This is one of the first things I would do. Place it in the extreme rear corner on the passenger side. There are others who will suggest larger cable, but I have used #4 welding cable for the line to run to the starter. Welding cable has many more small strands than standard electrical cable and will carry the amps. Any Ace Hardware will have insulated line clamps that will allow you to attach the cable to the frame. Use a clamp about every 18 inches. Ground the battery at the back on the frame, then pick up the ground at the frame on the front of the car to go to the starter housing. Requires 2 short pieces for ground and 1 long cable to starter.
07-29-2009 01:03 AM
Jeff The Ruler One of the first things I did when i got my Camino home was remove the windshield washer bottle from the engine bay...It just looked bad anyway...

The next day I took out the windshield wiper motor. It was ugly as a mud fence to begin with! Except the deern thing weighed like 15 pounds!

Aluminum heads, intake, waterpump, and ditching the cast iron log manifold will be huge.

you could move the battery rearward.

Your car isnt familiar to me but see if there is a way to lighten the radiator core support/from bumper area. On A-bodies at least I know there is a lotta metal going on around there...
07-29-2009 12:48 AM
javracer try a magnet on the trunk lid if it sticks go to the boneyard and find an aluminum one. Also the window regulators, you can use a seatbelt on the bottom of the glass and mount the latch on the bottom of the door, latched window up, pop it window down.
07-28-2009 11:38 PM
raiderdave007 im gonna rip my a/c out of my monte to.gooood luck let us know.
10-08-2008 04:15 PM

Never heard of aluminum core supports, what years were they used? i am also thinking of removing the heavy inner front bumper. It's a lot of bumper. It seems the only significance is for front impact. Will removing this jeopardize the integrity of the frame? Has anyone dealt with this? What significance would a replacement aluminum bumper have?....Just there to bolt the nose up, or needs to be as strong as the steel piece. Any suggestions are appreciated.
10-08-2008 04:02 AM

Thanks for all the comments. weezin355 good tip on the door weights. Any other weight that could be hiding in the body?
10-07-2008 09:34 PM
weezin355 Your laundry list is growing, one thing I can add is removing the crash bars out of your doors.
10-07-2008 12:40 PM
Koolaid It just depends on how crazy you want to get an how "un-user friendly" you are willing to deal with.

Tubular upper control arms are lighter then stock. You could also ditch the sway bar if you aren't concerned with cornering (or crutch it with stiffer springs). Yank the entire dash all the way to the firewall and make a barebones aluminum dash panel. Seats would be a biggy. Also get rid of your hood pivot / spring assemblies and make it a lift off fiberglass piece. Aluminum water pump is a few pounds and cheap, mini-starter also takes weight off the nose and is a good bang for the buck. Biggest weight saver off the front would be aluminum heads and intake - also dump cast iron manifolds if you have them and go to headers. Calipers can be purchased that are aluminum instead of cast iron. Replace the bumper with an aluminum one if possible. If it's a metric car some of them were built with aluminum core supports - you could find one of those and also go to an aluminum radiator.

I'd be more concerned with nose weight then tail weight - most rear wheel drive cars are already pretty front weight biased.

Good luck with your project and think twice before making any "weight reductions" you can't easily put back if you miss them!
10-07-2008 11:24 AM
Rustydawg I have always wanted to remove the shock absorbing mounts for the bumpers and replace them with something lighter and simpler - there's got to be significant weight to lose there.

A power bench seat you say? Gawd, that's got to be heavy. Helped a friend pull the power seats out of a '70 Lincoln and we thought we'd missed some bolts. Nope - it's THAT heavy!

Nothing will go as fast & easy as your first 325 lbs...
10-06-2008 07:58 PM
bradykat i once took a hole saw to the inside of a nova and put holes behind most of the interior trim panels i thought i could offset some of the weight of interior panels and still have a decent looking interior
10-06-2008 05:20 PM
4 Jaw Chuck Replacing the bumpers with fiberglass replicas is worth at least 100 pds. Getting all the tar sound deadener out of the car is worth another 150 pds usually. Factory seats weigh another 100pds, you may be surprised to find the carpet weighs another 50pds too.

One of the heaviest thing on a car is the glass, kind of need the front windshield as a minimum though. To give you an idea how much you can lighten a car, I brought my 81 Mazda RX7 from 2400pds factory to 1900 pds just by doing the items listed above...and that was a small car!
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