|10-13-2008 08:23 PM|
A real auto parts store might have a paper catalog with a cross-reference guide where you could see what's available with your thread size.
Might email Scoggin-Dickey's tech department (tech at sdparts.com) and see if they can help you. Surely they've dealt with this before.
|10-09-2008 09:52 AM|
|sbchevfreak||IMHO, the rad cap guage by itself in not good enough. You will be seeing radiator temperature not engine temp. IIRC, there should be a listing for a smaller thread sender that will work. Blue Streak or hygrade products, maybe?|
|10-09-2008 08:27 AM|
Allright, I messed around with my wife's digital camera and was unable to get a pic for you guys. Sorry. I definately cannot fit both the sensor and the thermostat housing though!
Here's what I am going to do . . . for now. Let me know what you think. What I really need to do is get this motor fired so I can get the car to my bodywork guy before winter (remember this is Wisconsin and winter is coming soon!)
I went to the parts store and got a brass plug for the sensor hole in the vortec head.
Then I got a Mr. Gasket radiator cap with a temp gauge on it!
I plan to set up full instrumentation in the future OR use one of the thermostat housings that has a sensor hole in it. I don't want to tap the manifold in another location, so I think a new housing will be best.
So. . . will the radiator cap temp gauge be okay for now? Remember I haven't run this motor yet, so I need to make sure my cooling system is working allright. What temp should I expect at the radiator cap? I've got a high flow water pump, 180 degree themostat, and I just had the radiator rebuilt and turned into a 2-row (not sure if you can believe this, but the stock 307 radiator was a single row!).
I was thinking I should be anticipating around 180-200 degrees at the cap? Any ideas? . . . or problems?
Thanks for the help, guys!
|10-09-2008 06:22 AM|
we've ALL (me too) missed the fact that he want's to use the idiot light....
wander down top the parts store and find a sender for a light AND has the correct threads, change wire terminal to fit.
|10-08-2008 10:00 PM|
|schatzy||A buddy of mine put vortecs and an Edelbrock Performer on his 70 pick-up. He installed the sender on the port facing the radiator. I can't remember if he used an adapter or not and he has since sold the truck.|
|10-08-2008 06:12 PM|
|10-08-2008 11:46 AM|
I have "adapters" in stock, and from what I see, by the time you 'drill' them out to fit the stock "temp sender probe" they will 'break if you sneeze'.............
There is no way this will work!
waiting for a 'pic'.
|10-08-2008 11:21 AM|
|10-08-2008 11:18 AM|
Can you post a picture of your intake, around the thermostat housing?
I have installed mechanical gauges in 2 intakes before. I know it can be done, even with a factory sender.
The water port runners had a 1/4" wall thickness, and with thread sealant, it will hold, and will not crack. A torque of 18-20 Foot pounds is enough.
They also make thermostat housings that "rotate", (time to improvise) but you may need to get a different upper radiator hose, to make it work without putting a 'kink' in your hose.
In a case like this, you need to be able to 'think outside of the box' to make it work.
Disregard what is the 'given', step back, look, and think 'how can I make this work'. to Hot-roding 101.
|10-08-2008 10:36 AM|
Routing the sensor into the intake could've been a good idea, but on the chevelle setup the thermostat housing comes out almost right on top of the 1/2" plug on my intake (edelbrock performer EPS)! There isn't room for the sensor AND the radiator hose. Other ideas? I gotta think this problem has come up with many guys, considering how popular vortec heads are!
Thanks for the help!
|10-07-2008 08:15 PM|
|schatzy||I had the same problem when I put vortec heads on my 72 Chevy pick-up. I went to Napa and tried to find a sender that would fit the head but have the same resistance as the original. No luck, ended up putting it in the intake in the hole just under the upper radiator hose.|
|10-07-2008 07:47 PM|
You need to use the stock sender from the 1971 application. This will work correctly with your dash 'light'/gauges.
|10-07-2008 06:33 PM|
or . . .
Would it be possible to just get a sensor for a '97 silverado, like where the vortec motor was originally from? Or wouldn't that match up with the factory wiring (I'm fine with splicing in a different fitting, but I do want it to actually work good).
By the way, all I'm talking about is an "idiot light" setup. I don't have a fancy temp gauge in my base malibu.
Thanks for the help so far, guys!
|10-07-2008 05:38 PM|
|carsavvycook||I don't believe there is enough 'boss' in the area of the head, to drill and tap it that large. This is why I recommend moving it to the intake manifold area.|
|10-07-2008 05:10 PM|
|tomslik||drill it out and tap it for 1/2" pipe threads....|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|