|09-06-2010 08:45 AM|
hey brian here a site that show and explains what to do http://www.repairnation.com/.../cab_...corner_pg1.htm a word of advice stay away from the glue idea welding is always better. i'm building a 91 chev ext cab and a buddy of mine says only glue it if your not planing to keep it. cut out your cab corner about an inch down from where the truck has that body line. cut the replacement so it over laps the cab corner you cut by a quarter inch clamp it in where you like it and put small tacks to hold it in place. when you weld it star by the door and weld toward the box remember to do very small weld and then let it cool then repeat. do not stagger your welds if you go from the door back you will naturaly work out any warping. good luck bud
|12-09-2008 07:28 PM|
|MrPhotographer06||cool cool.. well one small step for the project .. one giant leap for me .. i got it to run today|
|12-09-2008 05:21 AM|
If you don't want to remove the bed (it would be better though) then loosen it up and slide it back. That way you have room to work. You will have to cut between the bed and the cab to get the corner rust out. I have seen ones try to do it with the bed in place and you can't get a good weld, and have a heck of a time doing any body work. Also on the show "Trucks" they replaced a cab corner(s) on an S10 project. They cut out the old rust and glued a patch in behind using the newer auto adhesives. Although this may be acceptable, you have to work through a small hole to try and clean all of the rust out. I don't really buy that approach. For one you would have to have every single bit of rust removed and after glueing, you would have to seal it. Easier said than done. I have seen that approach taken on another '93 truck and it was completely rusted within a year. It had rust bubbling within 4 months.
|12-08-2008 12:43 PM|
ah.. well i wasnt sure if it could be done.. cut to exact fit.. or a little more 1/2"... i wasnt planning on removing the bed since its a a stepside...
i've gotta do a lower inner door part,lower door skin and rocker on the drivers.. then lower inner door on pass,cab corner.. patching on drivers fender and a little bit of welding where the cab goes up at an angle for the support...
[see here http://s286.photobucket.com/albums/l...06/1963%20C10/ ]
|12-08-2008 06:26 AM|
|Kevin45||You can't flange a curved area. For starters, get your cab corners first. They come larger than what you will need. LMC will carry them. Pull the bed off of your truck and mark out with tape what you need to cut out. Do not cut any more than necessary. Pull the interior panels out of the truck in the area of the cab corners. Notice at the bottom of the rocker, how the corner meets this area. Get a cutoff wheel and cut out your bad area. Mark your new piece and carefully trim it to fit. This will take multiple times of trial and trimming until you get it where you want. Once you get it to fit where you want, clean, grind, wire-brush everything you can on the cab in the area that you are putting the corner. This is where the rust starts forming. Use some POR15 to coat the cab area quite liberally and let dry. Grind the areas where you will need to weld. Tack weld the corner in. Then go back and fill in between. Finish as necessary and you may find that you will need to get a tube of seam sealer and use down towards the rocker and back seam at the cab. Use some more POR15 or similar product to re-coat from the inside. I removed and replaced mine at the door jamb around to the seam in the cab and above the reinforcement brace in the cab. I have to resize some pics but will post them in a short as to how I did mine|
|12-08-2008 05:28 AM|
|MrPhotographer06||i'm planning on cutting all but about 3/4 " around it.. then making a small flange , welding ,grinding bondo and move to the next one|
|12-07-2008 07:06 PM|
|38Dodgebiz||If you are careful and stitch weld it until it's all filled in you can avoid the warpage.|
|12-07-2008 01:11 PM|
|66GMC||The biggest benefit to the glue method is that you don't need to worry about the warpage. Yes, you would have to either do the panel crimping thing ... which would require some careful measuring, cutting, and aligning ... or perhaps rely on the "brute force" method of purposely denting and filling the overlap area.|
|12-07-2008 11:06 AM|
|jnanam||i do them with the weldder myself everything is about the same but where you are going to over lap you use a flange too (something like this https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-11628-14330.aspx they have hand ones too) this will make where you overlap level. weld around (skip around so there isnt to much heat) grind welds, ext. good luck|
|12-07-2008 08:52 AM|
|brian12c||I dont see how thats going to look right if you overlap the panels?? And I do have a mig welder so is that preferred over the glue?|
|12-07-2008 08:32 AM|
There are patch panels available for both of the above-mentioned truck, and they can be GLUED into place using Norton Speedgrip.
Cross-Canada is a Canadian distributor ... but I am sure they are available in the US as well.
Cut out around the rust holes, into the good metal ... but make sure that you leave enough (an inch or so) of overlap, smaller than the repair panel, to have something to glue to.
Sand the paint off of the work area using coarse (36 grit?) sandpaper.
(Honest, I don't work for Norton ... but they have some new "Blaze" discs with a roloc attachment that will work very nicely with your die-grinder.)
"Dry-fit" the patch panel, drill and screw it in such a way that it can be re-screwed into the same position once the glue has been applied.
Apply the glue in an "squiggly" pattern to the prepared (Sanded to bare metal, cleaned with laquer thinner and dry ) surface ... and then glue and screw it into place. That speedgrip stuff is available in a variety of working times, from 1 - 40 minutes. 5 or 15 is probably what you'll want to use here.
Don't get overly concerned about any of the glue that may have "squished out" as it is completely sandable and paintable. After the glue has cured, you can remove those screws and get to work on the rest of the operation. Go ahead and beat on this stuff. The glue is tough and flexible, and wont crack or peel away.
That sound pretty easy ... doesn't it?
The glue is pricey, ($50?) and you'll need to buy, borrow, or rent the manual applicator gun which is about $100. Sounds expensive, but it's sure a lot less than buying a mig welder. LOL
If you have some of the speedgrip product left-over, just leave the mix nozzles in place. The next time you want to do another repair ... and you will find many uses for this stuff as it works on almost anything including most plastics ... simply replace the mix nozzle with a new one and you're "good to go".
Yes, you can buy mix nozzles separately in 6-paks.
By the way ... if there are any expert body guys out there that have any opinions, corrections, or additions to this ... PLEASE feel welcome to add them. I'm a "parts guy", and this has been what I have learned by "osmosis"
|12-07-2008 07:48 AM|
|MrPhotographer06||i need the same thing for a 63 c10|
|12-07-2008 07:40 AM|
|12-06-2008 07:58 PM|
Brian what kind of truck are you working on?
|12-06-2008 05:07 PM|
Replacing cab corners
Does anyone know where I can find a good online crash course in replacing cab corners or just info in general on the procedure? Thanks, Brian