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V8 1973 VW Beetle Project

825K views 836 replies 88 participants last post by  V8 Super Beetle 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all!

I'm in the process of building a V8 Bug out of my 1973 VW Super Beetle. I know this is possible because it's been done before. I'm on the v8bugs.com forum where you can find a handle full of example and different ways to accomplish this, but I still have questions. There's a lot more traffic here so hopefully I can get some help. I'm pretty much a beginner hot rodder that's a DYI kinda guy.

I'm looking into building a custom 2"x3" tube chassis for my build. I've took some measurements from my bug and designed a chassis in Illustrator to size. I'm trying to design the frame so it'll use the stock suspension up front.

I currently have a 283 SBC and th350 to put into the bug, but at the moment the motor is the block, with pistons and all, and heads. The motor is at my old mans (he works nights) so I don't have access to measure the motor off for mounting and what not.

Could anyone tell me, ballpark figure, about how much distance I'll need from each frame rail to fit the engine with mounts and shorty headers?

Here's my frame design, the distance between each frame rail is exactly 27.5". Also I intend on mounting the motor to the crossmembers that hold in the front control arms / suspension. Is this enough distance? Could I bring the distance between the two main frame rails closer? How should I mount the engine to the cross member with then motor mounts I have (see picture below)?



Here's some pics of my beetle and progress. I'm still working on cutting out the trunk!





 
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#304 ·
boatbob2 said:
HI,instead of all the bondo,why not go to JC Whitney.com,and buy new VW fenders,they will cost less than the Bondo + work...
I widened the fenders 3" in the rear. That and I wanted to do it myself because of the challenge, which I've never done anything like this, and to be able to say when it's all said and done that I widened them myself.

:nono: JC Whitney doesn't even sell widened fenders. The cost of materials ($22 for bondo, $10 for 22 gauge sheet metal, $10 worth of sandpaper and $10 for welding rods = $52 total) is much less than the cost of repo or fiberglass fenders, which roughly cost $320+ with shipping. My time doesn't cost me anything. :D I know time is money in a sense but it's been a labor of love. :thumbup:

Now, if I was paying someone to widen them that would be a different story and I would agree.
 
#307 ·
Latest vision of the bug. I was thinking silver or blue, but went back to my original concept but with some C4 black vette wheels because I see so many blue metallic supers it's not even funny. :)



Also, last night my Mom ordered me some car parts for Christmas. :D

Isky cam #201278
Some Z28 type valve springs to upgrade my vortec heads - #205-D
Shim head gaskets - .015
Tranny and frame pad mounts.

I'm going by F-Bird'88's recommended build. I actually just ran across this video of how the build will sound. I'm sold on this build. :D

Here's the video.


Has a nastly little idle. :cool:
 
#312 ·
I had a good amount of time this weekend to get some things done. So much so I'm starting to run out of things to do body work wise... :D

I finished shaving the fenders that needed finishing.








I also shaved the hood handle. I just cut off the button latch.




Prepared the weld area.




Bolted the handle assembly on with a little 1" square piece of 22 gauge sheet metal to fill the button hole.




Welded in the handle, welded the handle to the filler piece, and that piece to the hood.




I then used a cutoff wheel to cut the handle down flush. I the weld the bolts and filler metal to the outer metal of the hood.




Then I ground it flush.




A little body filler and block sanding.




And voilà...Finished!




Next, i want to delete the crescent moon vents and that should be about it body work wise. The onto building a roll bar.
 
#315 ·
Hey guys, update time... :D

Got some needed parts for Christmas. Motor mounts, tranny mount, shim head gaskets (.015), torque wrench, isky cam #201278, some Lunati valve springs, and Comp Cams double roller chain setup. I'm just lacking a flex plate and harmonic balancer to complete my motor. :D

Did some body work. I shaved the vents on both sides, but kept the indention behind the vents, which I like.

I drew out a template



Cut the crescent moon shapes and test fitted.



Then cut the shape out of some 22 gauge sheet metal



Cleaned up the weld area with a 40 grit disk.



Tack welded it in place. I would've welded it up some more but there was a bit of rubber that sealed the vent in there... :confused: It caught fire a couple times, slightly. :eek: So I did enough tacks to get the job done.



Ground down the welds flush.



A little body filler.



Some block sanding, little filler, block sanding....etc.



Hit it with some primer. There's still some little pits so I'll have to go back and work with it some, but it's pretty much there.



Same for the other side. Still a little work to do.
 
#319 ·
Some updates.

A little more body work basically. I finished off the fresh air vents. They had little pin holes and needed some more block sanding. So that's done. Then I needed to close off the gap between the passenger fender.









You can tell from these pictures, but I figured it was time for some sweeping. So I had to jack up the bug and remove the front tires cause they went low. Took and filled them with some air. I took I picture so you could see just how well the stock S10 width works and perfectly under the stock fenders. The spacers are to give enough room for the vette wheels.

 
#321 ·
V/8 Bug

Say buddy I haven't posted in a while but I see that the BUG is coming out SUPER. I remember reading some time back that you adjusted the back wheels to fit better but what I noticed on the back end of the passenger rear tire you have more space towards the rear are you going to leave it like that or are you going to fill in with some medal? Don't get me wrong it's coming out great but I was just wondering how about your engine any plans on placing it in the hood? Please let me know when your going to take that bad boy to the Baytown track I want to be there maybe consider a roll cage for to be on the safe side. I'm going to PM you so look for it.
Be good! RJ :D
 
#322 ·
GMCTRUCKS said:
Say buddy I haven't posted in a while but I see that the BUG is coming out SUPER. I remember reading some time back that you adjusted the back wheels to fit better but what I noticed on the back end of the passenger rear tire you have more space towards the rear are you going to leave it like that or are you going to fill in with some medal? Don't get me wrong it's coming out great but I was just wondering how about your engine any plans on placing it in the hood? Please let me know when your going to take that bad boy to the Baytown track I want to be there maybe consider a roll cage for to be on the safe side. I'm going to PM you so look for it.
Be good! RJ :D
Hey RJ, good to hear from you again. Thanks! I think it's just an illusion cause of the angle that I took the picture. I'll pull her out again and give it a good look from far back, but last time I really paid attention it seemed just fine. My next goal is to get the remaining parts for the engine (starter, water pump). rebuild the transmission, get the roll bar / cage going, and to rebuild and paint the chassis. Once I get all that done I can get the engine in. I'm hoping to have all that done by April. I just depends on how much funds I have to spend. :thumbup: Once I get her going I'll definitely take it down to the track and I'll be sure to let you know when I plan to go.
 
#323 ·
V8 Super Beetle said:
I widened the fenders 3" in the rear. That and I wanted to do it myself because of the challenge, which I've never done anything like this, and to be able to say when it's all said and done that I widened them myself.

:nono: JC Whitney doesn't even sell widened fenders. The cost of materials ($22 for bondo, $10 for 22 gauge sheet metal, $10 worth of sandpaper and $10 for welding rods = $52 total) is much less than the cost of repo or fiberglass fenders, which roughly cost $320+ with shipping. My time doesn't cost me anything. :D I know time is money in a sense but it's been a labor of love. :thumbup:

Now, if I was paying someone to widen them that would be a different story and I would agree.
How about placing fiberglass over the bondo so it won't start to crack im thinking that maybe it might because of the stress of the V/8 on the body just a thought while it's not painted yet. Also VW newer bugs have some real nice colors out there I seen one some time ago that it looked like if it had a pearl color to it I think it was green or purple in color it's been a while. And J.C. Whitney does have a lot of stuff for your bug.
 
#325 ·
GMCTRUCKS said:
How about placing fiberglass over the bondo so it won't start to crack im thinking that maybe it might because of the stress of the V/8 on the body just a thought while it's not painted yet. Also VW newer bugs have some real nice colors out there I seen one some time ago that it looked like if it had a pearl color to it I think it was green or purple in color it's been a while. And J.C. Whitney does have a lot of stuff for your bug.
I think that they might be fine cause they've flexed, the fenders, a lot just me bolting them on and taking them off. They've held up fine so far. I didn't add a whole lot of hardener to the bondo when I was working with them to keep it from hardening too fast before I got the filler laid down like I want. So hopefully that'll allow them to flex some. ;)

I was thinking of going with the two tone scheme like I posted earlier in the thread, or maybe this color.

Dayton Blue Metallic




I'm kinda going back and forth deciding what color to paint it when the time comes. I want to give spraying the car a try myself and I hear metallics are harder to spray.
 
#326 ·
BAILEIGH said:
You should add a custom roll bent cage to that car.

Nice!
Thanks! I plan to make a custom 8 point roll bar and weld it into the frame. Like so.



That should offer plenty of protection and help strengthen the frame. I don't see the car really doing a lot of track time. Only occasionally. Really just play on the street. It'll be my play toy. :D So just a roll bar should do. I can always add later if I decide it'll see more track time than anything else.
 
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