Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> Another Chevy Starter Issue (pic)
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: Another Chevy Starter Issue (pic) Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
10-07-2013 11:12 PM
heavychevy86
not sure

not sure if its cracked looks normal.... but wouldn't know where to look but if it is cracked is it fixable and can it be rigged... how do I fix ****ss really pissing me off I love my truck
10-07-2013 10:34 PM
Bluecollarron Wow totally forgot about this. I used to be quite the rookie, now im a mechanic full time. if your going through new starters and new flexplates, then is your blocked cracked? thats what mine ended up being and on a few other motors ive seen.
10-04-2013 07:35 AM
RWENUTS Simple.
Start your own thread stating your problem, syptoms and what you've tried so far.
You'll get better responses.
Hijacking someone elses thread never works.
So, lets end this one.
Start a new one!
10-03-2013 11:00 PM
heavychevy86
okay

so what do u suggest I do
10-03-2013 10:11 PM
RWENUTS Better to start a new thread heavychevy!
Instead of digging up a 5 year old one.
10-03-2013 07:51 PM
heavychevy86 my starter is doin the same thing... took it to a guy and he wsore up and down that my main bearings went out is .... my motor runs beautiful I know its not true what do I do this has been replacing starters n flexplates for like a year
12-30-2008 06:09 PM
boatbob2
starter getting hot...

Hi,speedway and jegs sell a cover that goes over the starter solenoid to keep the heat off of it.try it.
12-30-2008 05:46 PM
Bluecollarron
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
I`ve seen many with small cracks like this and I have a few recommendations for you that worked for me and several others.
Make sure you are using the correct bolts with no washers, no shims. Make sure they are spotlessly clean. Check the milled flats when the bolts go on the starter and make sure they are also spotlessly clean. Install the starter, torque the bolts to 40 ft lbs. Next, going by the picture as a guide, by all means, add grounds. 1 ground going to the alternator bracket don`t cut it, especially if the engine has been out of the vehicle and likely the factory grounds were not reconnected elsewhere. Run the ground to the block and another ground from the block to the frame. This may not seem important, but when you factor in how less harder the starter has to work to turn the engine over it`s a big benefit. Here`s what I do to all vehicles I work on with starter issues ground wise. I make sure the ground from the firewall to the engine is still connected, I add a ground from the battery to the fender if it`s absent. Ground to the front of the block then to the frame. I remove the brake line holder, clean it spotless, then add the ground with the brake line holder, bolt it back up and go. In every case I`ve seen a difference, the charging system works alot more efficient, the head lights brighter, and best of all no starter trouble. Since chevy`s use the solenoid on top they get hot, so they need all the assistance they can get, reducing the resistance by adding grounds usually does the trick. My cutlass header was riding directly on the starter, after going through 8 starters and doing what I just said, no more starter trouble since.
Wow thanks for that great info. You are dead on.
The guy before me rebuilt this 350 of mine(late 60s early 70s) and he did only what he had to do to ride this thing a while.
examples:

-my autochoke was zip tied to hold it open a bit, drove probably 75 gallons of gas like this until I figured it out.
-idle screw on carb was turned high.
-radiator is missing lower housing
-the linkage for my transmission is hooked up with a zip tie under the hood.

I could go on, but basically he did what he had to do to run this thing a bit, then sold it before winter because it has nothing to pass IM. So I am sure he didnt connect the grounds you mention. Thanks
12-30-2008 05:28 PM
DoubleVision I`ve seen many with small cracks like this and I have a few recommendations for you that worked for me and several others.
Make sure you are using the correct bolts with no washers, no shims. Make sure they are spotlessly clean. Check the milled flats when the bolts go on the starter and make sure they are also spotlessly clean. Install the starter, torque the bolts to 40 ft lbs. Next, going by the picture as a guide, by all means, add grounds. 1 ground going to the alternator bracket don`t cut it, especially if the engine has been out of the vehicle and likely the factory grounds were not reconnected elsewhere. Run the ground to the block and another ground from the block to the frame. This may not seem important, but when you factor in how less harder the starter has to work to turn the engine over it`s a big benefit. Here`s what I do to all vehicles I work on with starter issues ground wise. I make sure the ground from the firewall to the engine is still connected, I add a ground from the battery to the fender if it`s absent. Ground to the front of the block then to the frame. I remove the brake line holder, clean it spotless, then add the ground with the brake line holder, bolt it back up and go. In every case I`ve seen a difference, the charging system works alot more efficient, the head lights brighter, and best of all no starter trouble. Since chevy`s use the solenoid on top they get hot, so they need all the assistance they can get, reducing the resistance by adding grounds usually does the trick. My cutlass header was riding directly on the starter, after going through 8 starters and doing what I just said, no more starter trouble since.
12-30-2008 04:37 PM
Bluecollarron
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS-57
I don't mean to talk negative about a repair you want to do but I want to save you the hassle of repairing it again & again. I doubt JB Weld will work, if the housing broke, how will gluing it back together be stronger? If the JB is stronger than the housing (which I doubt) it will break directly beside the repair because that will be the weakest point. If JB is not stronger it will break in the same spot because if your starter broke, it did so for a reason.
If a stater is adjusted correctly, you have a good flexplate & your motor is running good, you won't have starter problems. My experience has been that the starter is either mis-adjusted, the ring gear is worn or there is another problem with the way the motor runs at startup.
Check the starter adjustment & the ring gear first. If those are perfect than check the timing then check the solenoid in the distributor. I've discovered a few over the years that cause a misfire at startup & caused starter troubles because they cause the motor to kick back periodically. It's not common but it's worth a try.
Best of luck
Happy New Year
Hey its cool man, I dont think you are "talking negative". If you look closely at my pictures, you will see that the outer ear hasnt broken off, it actually isnt even close to breaking off. That crack is very small. I am not for sure yet, but I dont think that crack even goes up the side of the bolt hole yet. Before my starter broke the last nose cone, it actually started up very nice and smooth, except when it got hot because of the exhaust pipe.

So if I put on a brace, and prevent that crack from growing, I should be okay. If not I will put a stud in that bolt hole like I said earlier.

By the way, I've checked just about everything you mentioned. The only thing I cant check is the timing. Previous owner put a chrome cover on without the timing marks. I once heard you could check the timing by hooking up a vaccum gauge, is that true? If so I would really like to know how to do it. Thanks bro, Happy New Years to you as well, thanks for all the insight!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bondo
Ayuh,....

Just Curious,...

Just How in 'ell are you going to mount the starter if you weld a Stud into that broken Hole,..??..??..??
Hey thanks for reading this thread.
Thats what I thought at first when somebody recommended it to me. The stud needs to be a piece of high quality all-thread. You bottom out the all-thread in the hole, and tack weld it in place. Then you put the starter on the 1 good bolt hole, and put a nut on the all thread, PRESTO.

I apologize for jabbering about the '3 bolt hole starter'. That specific model bolts to the bell housing not the block.
12-30-2008 07:04 AM
bondo
Quote:
and if that does not work I will weld a stud in the hole. Any thoughts are surely welcomed,
Ayuh,....

Just Curious,...

Just How in 'ell are you going to mount the starter if you weld a Stud into that broken Hole,..??..??..??
12-29-2008 11:46 PM
LS-57 I don't mean to talk negative about a repair you want to do but I want to save you the hassle of repairing it again & again. I doubt JB Weld will work, if the housing broke, how will gluing it back together be stronger? If the JB is stronger than the housing (which I doubt) it will break directly beside the repair because that will be the weakest point. If JB is not stronger it will break in the same spot because if your starter broke, it did so for a reason.
If a stater is adjusted correctly, you have a good flexplate & your motor is running good, you won't have starter problems. My experience has been that the starter is either mis-adjusted, the ring gear is worn or there is another problem with the way the motor runs at startup.
Check the starter adjustment & the ring gear first. If those are perfect than check the timing then check the solenoid in the distributor. I've discovered a few over the years that cause a misfire at startup & caused starter troubles because they cause the motor to kick back periodically. It's not common but it's worth a try.
Best of luck
Happy New Year
12-29-2008 10:57 PM
Bluecollarron Hey guys, I went to the local been around forever junk yard and they said this is a very common problem for Chevys. People take the brackets off and never put them back on. I will try JB welding the crack after grinding, and if that does not work I will weld a stud in the hole. Any thoughts are surely welcomed, thanks a lot!
12-29-2008 06:16 AM
Bluecollarron
CR55
Quote:
The front brace never worked for me. I suffered through the starter grinding for years. Tried all kinds of different makes. The big delco remy worked the longest but still made the grinding noise and eventually broke. Put in a mini starter and it worked for a while, but it too made the grinding noise and also stated breaking teeth off of the flywheel. Finally took it to a local shop and the owner drilled a third hole in between the two staggered bolts. No more grinding noise and it's been that way for 3 years now.......CR
I agree, nothing worse then starter problems, I would not wish it upon the worst of my enemies.
12-29-2008 06:06 AM
cr55 Read my reply to the other thread. It works! Good luck, nothing worse than starter problems.....CR
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.