|01-21-2009 11:11 AM|
|prostreet6t9||Dutchman charges $90.00 pr to shorten.|
|01-21-2009 09:54 AM|
|S10 Racer||Moser cuts & resplines axles for $110.00 a pair + shipping both ways. They do a great job and are the best priced I have found.|
|01-19-2009 01:23 PM|
Some Info about the tapered 9" axles at bottom of page. Shortening axles >>
|01-18-2009 08:49 PM|
There is a jig tool that has been sold at least a dozen times on eBay for welding the 9 inch housing. What you do is buy it cut your housings and weld them up and then re-sell the jig. It is a good tool and it has been passed around a lot. It is not up there right now but keep looking and it will be back up soon. I think that there is a post up here somewhere with a fellow hotrodder using a similar (or the same) jig. As far as the 9 inch axles go I have never seen a pair that were a smaller diameter anywhere on the axle then the splined area. The spline area is the smallest diameter on the axle. This is why they are so easy to re-spline. I am not saying that there isn't any out there I'm just saying I haven't seen any and I have converted at least twenty cars to 9 inches. Taller buckets are an option but not so tall that they can bump each other and believe me you will be surprised how far a coil spring will compress. You can also buy a bucket from some of the circle track supply houses that has a threaded ring for adjusting ride height. As far as the cables they are insurance because you still need something to keep the travel from over extending and that is why I use a cable up the center. I don't like to rely on the shock to stop the travel. I have seen even the best ones with 5/8" shafts pull apart. Plenty of European sport cars and even the early corvettes (before IRS) used a strap bolted to the frame and then looped around the axle housing to keep the suspension from over extending. When over extending occurs all kinds of bad things can happen: u-joints bind and snap, drive-shafts can go flying, pinion shafts and yokes are broken, it's not a pretty sight. Oh and while we are on this subject I strongly advise a drive shaft containment loop. Poll vaulting was fun when we were kids but it's an ugly thing when you do it with the drive shaft in your favorite hotrod.
|01-18-2009 04:18 PM|
You can get axles resplined here. http://www.dutchmanms.com/
Keep in mind that they will not add any material to the axles, Some axles are not the same diameter all the down the axle,so you need to measure the axle at the cut point and make sure it has enough diameter.
|01-18-2009 03:17 PM|
A '79 T'bird shouldn't have any spring perches on the rearend...it's a Fox body and the spring sets into the lower control arm and the rearend just has brackets on it..no perches...must be some other year. Unless you are building a truck, which you didn't mention, the Bronco axles will also need the pattern on the flange changed...they are the big pattern....I think 5 on 5. The cost to have both the cutting,splining and new pattern ( whcih I think requires the flange o.d. to be reduced for regular brakes) would probably cost as much(or more) as a set of axles from several places.
I didn't make note of your location, but I think that Currie has re-cut Ford axles for about $250/pr.
EDIT: My mistake..the Fox body 'bird wasn't until 1980.
|01-18-2009 11:49 AM|
|johnsongrass1||Instead of the cable's....Just make the buckets longer. Like pictured.|
|01-18-2009 11:33 AM|
Wouldn't you need the spring perches off the old G-body rear instead of the T-Bird?
Also you'll need a Jig to keep the Housing, Tubes & Ends aligned while welding it all up.
|01-18-2009 11:16 AM|
Coil springs or coil overs?
Either one will work for what you are doing and if tuned correctly both will work just fine. Lets address cost first. You already have the coil springs and you would have to buy the coil overs. With coil overs I have never been satisfied with the first set I purchased and usually had to go through about three pair before I found the ones that worked the best. The same holds true with coil springs but you can get them from the junk yard. The problem with coil springs in a drag car is if you don't secure them in the perches they can jump out on a good hooked up run when the axle winds up. In a completely stock arrangement the length of the shock is supposed to keep the rear axle from extending to the point where the spring jumps out and under normal circumstances it works this way. But I have seen shocks break and the rubber bushings give to the point where the axle winds up and the springs jump out. You sound like a good fabricator and you should be able to make a way to hold the springs in their perches. Look at the front suspension on a late sixties through early eighties F-150 Ford pick up trucks. They had a real good way of securing the springs and you should be able to duplicate something like this to hold yours in place. You can also run a 3/8 inch cable inside the spring from the upper perch to the lower perch. Get someone to crimp a heavy duty eye (loop) in each end. Secure it to the top perch with a cross bolt and then use a cross bolt setup underneath and in the center of the bottom perch and make this one easy to remove. Measure the cables to leave enough slack in the length so that when the suspension is extended the coils are a little bit loose in the perches. You will have to do this with a floor jack under the rear and jack stands under the frame. Another thing: you don't have the adjustability that you get with a set of coil overs. At the track you can set pre-load, right side bite and ride height from one side to the other just by turning the collar. With coil springs you have to play around with the length and you will have a lot more trial and error. Coil spring are heat treated so don't use a torch to cut them. Use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel. One thing good about coil springs is that they do ride a lot better then coil overs. So it is a give and take scenario and it will take more work to use the coil springs and more money to use the coil overs.
Sorry but I am not much help on the re-spline. Here in Jacksonville we had an old Guru that used to cut the housings and re-spline the axles for us. He was a retired D.O.D. machinist and he was awesome. But he passed away a few years back (greatly missed) and I haven't done what you are doing in about five years. You could how ever take your axles to all of the machine shops that are available in your area and explain what you need. It is not that hard to do you just need the right equipment and just about any machine shop is capable of doing it.
|01-18-2009 07:51 AM|
9 inch ford G body rear axle questions, advantages STD spring, coil over
Hey guys I have a dilemma on my hands. First is what to do about the housing?? I am really attracted to this unit:
The issue is I already have about 8 bare housings in my garage, that I have already cut all of the mounts off of. So all i'd hafta do is cut the (3" slide in tubes) off @ the weld and narrow it to the stock width of 52.5" EXACTLY for the outside edge of one flange to the other flange OS edge, NOT WHEEL TO WHEEL, as some guys do. That is not the proper way the measure because there is WAAAYYY to much room for error... That is what was told to me by the company that builts the units from the link i posted above.
Anyway, getting one to 52.5" is no problem, I can do that on my own. Then I could just purchase this kit:
and weld it on. The problem is the kit doesn't have any spring pearches, I do however have a housing that I could steal the pearches off of that came out of a 79' T-Bird, problem is I'm not sure if I want STD springs or coil over's.
On a basic street car with the occasional 1/4 mile test n tune pass and mabey a few real races here and there, Is a coil over system even necessary?? Would STD spring set up do just fine?? Are there any major advantages to one or the other?? Please keep cost in mind, Because I want to make this conversion with as little money as possible, I want is to be good and right, but not cost me any body parts if you know what i mean. which I do think is completly feasable...
My second major issue is the axles... I have a plethora of HD 31 spline thick axles from bronco's and other 4x4's but NONE of them are the length i need. I'd rather not pay 3-400 for a set of axlesif I can get then cut down and re splined for a reasonable price!!!! OOOORRRRRR, is there ANY vehicle I could look for that may have the length i need which 26 1/4" on the short side and 29 5/8" on the long side.
Do any of you know of any places that re-spline axles and cut them down?? I'd like to find a few different ones so I can shop around for the best price along with the best reputation. ANY help with either of these issues will be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time, Danny