Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> sb350 Problems,-Help!
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: sb350 Problems,-Help! Reply to Thread
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
02-25-2002 10:41 PM
wrenchtwister I would put a ground strap from the body to the engine to insure proper grounding to the interior, but the knocking sounds like a timing problem.Has the weather took a drastic change in the past few days? Could be that the temp change needs to be compensated for.
Also check the color of your sparkplugs more info at
02-19-2002 07:20 AM
57Chevyman I am unsure but I seem to remember that the balast Resistor should drop the coil supply voltage to 9v. Too much voltage to the coil will eventualy cause it to fail. Not sure if this applies to the HEI though. I would check for vacume leaks especialy in the vacume advance. This could be part of your trouble. Also have the altenator checked at the parts store. It sounds like you may have a diode out in the darn thing.

Good Luck
02-19-2002 04:35 AM
hodgepodge Charlie Im a chevy man for 30 years and I may be able to help you chevy alternators average voltage is 16.5 .Split fire plugs are fine .HEI ign fine.Gas weak a little .600 carb fine may need adjusting! Try taking off distributor cap rotor cap and look at little flippers at top of distributor shaft make sure they move also make sure the springs are there. You can change the weight of the flippers and the size of the springs I like 262 for weight and a heavier spring.You can buy kits at your local car shop.Hope this will help and check timing.Good luck.
02-10-2002 06:39 AM
eazy_turbo Also on your the ping your hearing may be from your timing set to advanced. Back it off as well!!!
02-10-2002 06:32 AM
eazy_turbo I think you might want to back off you accelerator pump.. Pushing to much fuel on take off. I'm sure that would cure your problem with the hesitation of your take off!!!! "CHEVY'S RULE" Take Care!!!!!
02-09-2002 02:54 PM
dubba If electrical Don't fix. Pop distributer cap throw a wrench on the crank to see if back and forth movemont on crank is as responsive with distributer shaft. if it doesn't respond quick enough, you've found the problem good ole horse power weakend the timing chain. on accel it won't keep up but cruisin runs fair if this is the problem be gentle till fixed broke chain = bent valves. good luck
02-07-2002 10:27 AM
dave7824 When replacing a point dist. with an HEI it is highly advisable to increase the B+ wire size as the original wire used for point type distributors is too small to provide adequate current for HEI. Will run fine in garage, but under a load in real driving conditions runs like crap. Increasing wire size solved similar problem in my 1964 El Camino. Good luck. dave
02-06-2002 07:37 AM
Classic Trucker Thanks for all the replys, I will check out all these suggestions.

02-06-2002 07:19 AM
carnutjoef First that carb cleaner can play real games with you, make sure you've got all of it out of the system, it may take a few tanks as that stuff really hangs in there. It does a good job of cleaning. I would look at the timing, slight changes make a big difference with the cam change, also any vacuum leaks. Any combination of these will make small corrections to performance as you find them, so there may be more than one, good luck, like to know how you make out. You gort a lot of good starts here, everyone seems to be hitting on a good potential, Joe
02-05-2002 08:43 PM
troll57 Change the -plugs pronto, I know of no one who has had any luck with them. Watch the amount of dryer in the fuel, as anyone who has run the oxygenated fuel can tell you, it'll clean all the rust and corrosion out of the entire fuel system and lodge it in the fuel filter. Check or replace the spark plug wires. they may be crossfiring too. that'll do really odd things at different times. Check the advances on the dist.. they may be frozen or leaking vacuum and not working properly. Last but not least, check the carb mixture screws, pal of mine had them move.The vacuum modulator on the trans may leak if you've got an auto. run steel line as much as you can and only use rubgber for the connections, full length rubber can collapse in the middle of a long run. Spark plug wires are a good bet. The grounds are also a good idea, make sure you've got a good one from block to cab, don't rely on the motor mounts, they are rubber cushioned and under torque can make contact or not. I have chased many charging system probs down to this. Good luck
02-05-2002 04:30 PM
huffed6 if you just installed the hei dist did you run thru the ballast resister? if you did it may be heating up and cutting voltage even tho when turning on initially you get a good voltage reading .on cranking bypass would show full voltage also. as rpms speed up voltage draw will lesson and resister will cool alowing more juice . just a thought
good luck
02-05-2002 03:53 PM
popsz28 Question? Do you have auto tranny with a vacumn trottle modulator. Seen a leak in that fix weird problem. Only fails when in gear and moving which makes vacumn readings difficult.

Good luck!
02-05-2002 03:52 PM
madingo First of all, the resistance check of grounds is not an absolute test. Checking voltage drop( difference from one ground to another). The reason for this is this: you can check a wire with one strand left, and show zero resitance, but the one strand cannot carry any current, rendering it bad.


From battery to block
from block to frame
from frame to body

Make sure the grounds to all of these points are of sufficient size-we use 6 gage or better.

02-05-2002 02:35 PM
V8Cowboy Check timing and mechanical advance,also go for higher grade octane fuel,91 is normally only suitable for round town runabouts not modified smallblocks.
Also check for fuel evaporation,try cold air ducting the air filter
02-05-2002 01:51 PM
brief madness Just a follow up, I forgot to mention that I had checked the sparkplugs first before changing to plug wires, and like other posters had mentioned, be careful with charging problems. I had a bad connection on the alternator to the battery so the charge from the alternator wasn't making it fully to the battery and was blowing out my headlights after starting and stepping on the go pedal. Luckily the fuses protected my stereo but the heater blower motor (it was winter) sounded like a F-16 on takeoff with afterburners full on.
This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:50 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.