|02-25-2002 10:41 PM|
I would put a ground strap from the body to the engine to insure proper grounding to the interior, but the knocking sounds like a timing problem.Has the weather took a drastic change in the past few days? Could be that the temp change needs to be compensated for.
Also check the color of your sparkplugs more info at http://www.fiatparts.com/colorplg.htm
|02-19-2002 07:20 AM|
I am unsure but I seem to remember that the balast Resistor should drop the coil supply voltage to 9v. Too much voltage to the coil will eventualy cause it to fail. Not sure if this applies to the HEI though. I would check for vacume leaks especialy in the vacume advance. This could be part of your trouble. Also have the altenator checked at the parts store. It sounds like you may have a diode out in the darn thing.
|02-19-2002 04:35 AM|
|hodgepodge||Charlie Im a chevy man for 30 years and I may be able to help you chevy alternators average voltage is 16.5 .Split fire plugs are fine .HEI ign fine.Gas weak a little .600 carb fine may need adjusting! Try taking off distributor cap rotor cap and look at little flippers at top of distributor shaft make sure they move also make sure the springs are there. You can change the weight of the flippers and the size of the springs I like 262 for weight and a heavier spring.You can buy kits at your local car shop.Hope this will help and check timing.Good luck.|
|02-10-2002 06:39 AM|
|eazy_turbo||Also on your the ping your hearing may be from your timing set to advanced. Back it off as well!!!|
|02-10-2002 06:32 AM|
|eazy_turbo||I think you might want to back off you accelerator pump.. Pushing to much fuel on take off. I'm sure that would cure your problem with the hesitation of your take off!!!! "CHEVY'S RULE" Take Care!!!!!|
|02-09-2002 02:54 PM|
|dubba||If electrical Don't fix. Pop distributer cap throw a wrench on the crank to see if back and forth movemont on crank is as responsive with distributer shaft. if it doesn't respond quick enough, you've found the problem good ole horse power weakend the timing chain. on accel it won't keep up but cruisin runs fair if this is the problem be gentle till fixed broke chain = bent valves. good luck|
|02-07-2002 10:27 AM|
|dave7824||When replacing a point dist. with an HEI it is highly advisable to increase the B+ wire size as the original wire used for point type distributors is too small to provide adequate current for HEI. Will run fine in garage, but under a load in real driving conditions runs like crap. Increasing wire size solved similar problem in my 1964 El Camino. Good luck. dave|
|02-06-2002 07:37 AM|
Thanks for all the replys, I will check out all these suggestions.
|02-06-2002 07:19 AM|
|carnutjoef||First that carb cleaner can play real games with you, make sure you've got all of it out of the system, it may take a few tanks as that stuff really hangs in there. It does a good job of cleaning. I would look at the timing, slight changes make a big difference with the cam change, also any vacuum leaks. Any combination of these will make small corrections to performance as you find them, so there may be more than one, good luck, like to know how you make out. You gort a lot of good starts here, everyone seems to be hitting on a good potential, Joe|
|02-05-2002 08:43 PM|
|troll57||Change the -plugs pronto, I know of no one who has had any luck with them. Watch the amount of dryer in the fuel, as anyone who has run the oxygenated fuel can tell you, it'll clean all the rust and corrosion out of the entire fuel system and lodge it in the fuel filter. Check or replace the spark plug wires. they may be crossfiring too. that'll do really odd things at different times. Check the advances on the dist.. they may be frozen or leaking vacuum and not working properly. Last but not least, check the carb mixture screws, pal of mine had them move.The vacuum modulator on the trans may leak if you've got an auto. run steel line as much as you can and only use rubgber for the connections, full length rubber can collapse in the middle of a long run. Spark plug wires are a good bet. The grounds are also a good idea, make sure you've got a good one from block to cab, don't rely on the motor mounts, they are rubber cushioned and under torque can make contact or not. I have chased many charging system probs down to this. Good luck|
|02-05-2002 04:30 PM|
if you just installed the hei dist did you run thru the ballast resister? if you did it may be heating up and cutting voltage even tho when turning on initially you get a good voltage reading .on cranking bypass would show full voltage also. as rpms speed up voltage draw will lesson and resister will cool alowing more juice . just a thought
|02-05-2002 03:53 PM|
Question? Do you have auto tranny with a vacumn trottle modulator. Seen a leak in that fix weird problem. Only fails when in gear and moving which makes vacumn readings difficult.
|02-05-2002 03:52 PM|
First of all, the resistance check of grounds is not an absolute test. Checking voltage drop( difference from one ground to another). The reason for this is this: you can check a wire with one strand left, and show zero resitance, but the one strand cannot carry any current, rendering it bad.
From battery to block
from block to frame
from frame to body
NEEDS TO A CONTINUOUS LOOP
Make sure the grounds to all of these points are of sufficient size-we use 6 gage or better.
|02-05-2002 02:35 PM|
Check timing and mechanical advance,also go for higher grade octane fuel,91 is normally only suitable for round town runabouts not modified smallblocks.
Also check for fuel evaporation,try cold air ducting the air filter
|02-05-2002 01:51 PM|
|brief madness||Just a follow up, I forgot to mention that I had checked the sparkplugs first before changing to plug wires, and like other posters had mentioned, be careful with charging problems. I had a bad connection on the alternator to the battery so the charge from the alternator wasn't making it fully to the battery and was blowing out my headlights after starting and stepping on the go pedal. Luckily the fuses protected my stereo but the heater blower motor (it was winter) sounded like a F-16 on takeoff with afterburners full on.|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|