|03-11-2009 07:23 PM|
|Old Fool||Fold, don't stir. You won't have near the pin holes when you don't whip air into your filler.|
|03-11-2009 07:14 PM|
|cboy||Finished my experiment using primer, dental piks and a credit card to fill the pinholes. I posted a little thread about it here. Really worked out well. No excessive sanding required, no extra round of shooting primer, and no extra round of sanding down that primer coat. I also think this method would work on a vertical surface...but what I did was totally on the horizontal.|
|03-11-2009 06:25 PM|
|03-11-2009 06:19 PM|
I fill pits in filler with primer all the time with no issues ..
Glass is a different issue ,,the pit is always larger then what you can see....(needs to be opened up)...
So , why epoxy ?....Is it the word "epoxy"...that has you sold ?
|03-11-2009 04:41 PM|
Did you NOT read my post,
Primer and poly will not FILL pinholes!!!!!!
The air from the GUN will PUSH it back OUT and won't fill jack or simply "cover" them up.WHY? Because they are "thick" and you NEED to "push" them INTO the pit. Otherwise,your just wasting product.
I've used Epoxy,G2 Poly and STILL had micro pin holes BECAUSE the AIR pushed the "product" back OUT of the hole.
The ONLY way to fill them is with a glaze filler or like I did initally with the poly while still wet and took a spreader and worked it like glaze. Just didn't get them ALL and found out after blocking the "mess".Yeah, it WAS ugly but I got the majority of them FILLED with the poly after seeing all the tiny "volcanos" left after the inital epoxy coats.
I got the PROOF out in my shop NOW.
I got tired of this B.S.and glazed the whole friggin scoop tonight and FILLED every little one of these PITA little bums.
I'll block it down and epoxy once more for the time being and then,600 sand and paint and BE DONE with this little nightmare.
|03-11-2009 01:46 PM|
[QUOTE=Fast Eddie D]If you're talking about that red lacquer glaze in a tube, I agree; it's worthless.
However, in the Land of Rust, pinholes are a real red flag, oh Honorable Moderator, and if you do fill them, typical polyester fillers won't work. [QUOTE]
He's talking about pin holes in the 2K primer, not all the way down to bare metal, oh Honorable Member .
|03-11-2009 01:16 PM|
[/QUOTE]( just remember they have to be small pin holes. The bigger ones will need puttyed and reprimed for best results.) .[/QUOTE]
And let me say,That he has built,And painted some award winning show cars,That has stand up to the test of time...
|03-11-2009 12:35 PM|
I agree, use a 2k spot filler or glaze. Stuff should sand really easy if you don't gob it on. You can either use a spreader, or one of the 3m rubber wet or dry squeeges work well, to spread tight into the pinholes leaving little to sand.
Like mentioned, its best to spot prime over the filler, or hit the car with a sealer coat (but I like to wet sand sealer flat before paint also).
I wouldn't really mix up primer and fill them, because thats kind of abusing it, and primer can shrink. Not to say that when I've noticed pinholes when priming something in collision work, I haven't smeared the primer to get down into and fill the pinhole and sand smooth when sanding the primer, but think with your car your striving for a little better, and no reason to take a risk of having it come back and bite you later to save a little bit of time.
If your as close as you say you are, now may be a good time to go over with a fine tooth comb and try to catch everything, and if you find enough, put on a couple smooth coats of primer over the whole thing to final sand. A hand held flourcent light at the right angle and running over the panels top to bottom (maybe doesn't work as well if you have a shop thats lit up like the vegas strip, but helps in my dungeon) can really help you see every minor pinhole, ect, that you could miss just glancing at a panel thats been guidecoated and sanded.
|03-11-2009 12:24 PM|
|lets cut it up||
cboy, your primer idea will work if the pin holes are small, I have done it many times to fill them. I sometimes have even used masking tape over the pinholes to keep the primer from running out if the pin holes are on the sides. just remember they have to be small pin holes. The bigger ones will need puttyed and reprimed for best results. JMO Tim
|03-11-2009 12:10 PM|
And yes, this is pinholes in the filler, not rust. It's all brand new sheet metal with filler applied for straightening the body panels. I only seemed to have created the pinholes in one small area of the roof...but I got a lot of them in that area. So I don't know what I did wrong when I did the filler work.
Also, for Vince, the Evercoat Glazecoat is a typical two part very fine filler...much like "icing". Typically used for final glaze, filling minor low spots, repairing tiny flaws etc. I know it will do a fair job of filling pins because I have used it for that on previous occasions. But it DOES require sanding and another coat of primer...so that's what I'm trying to avoid...another round of primer and blocking.
Anyhow, this morning I went out to the shop and embarked on some experimenting with the primer idea. Hopefully I can report back the outcome by tonight.
|03-11-2009 11:20 AM|
Any of the 2 part glazing compounds like Dolphin,Easy Sand,Metal Glaze,etc are what you want.
A quick swipe and minimal blocking but you will need to either do a light spot prime and block or a complete sealer coat before paint.Otherwise,you'll have ghosting thru your base.
I've found out the hard way,especally with 'glass that poly type fill primers just won't "go in the hole" on small pit's.Unless you just hammer the snot out of them,it just covers them over and when you block,Bingo,their back.
Another reason I like the dry guide powder.Mine are so small,I would likely not have even seen them but noticed several tiny black specks and after a closer inspection found them to be pit's and a lot more than I realized.
I've been fighting this glass hood scoop for awhile now "thinking" I'm "done" and then find more of these little bast.......
|03-11-2009 10:55 AM|
|Fast Eddie D||
Got it. Those pin holes are a non event to me; once I get to that point I'm 99% done. The rust part is 98.5% of any restoration in this neck of the woods.
|03-11-2009 10:50 AM|
|03-11-2009 10:12 AM|
|Fast Eddie D||
If you're talking about that red lacquer glaze in a tube, I agree; it's worthless.
However, in the Land of Rust, pinholes are a real red flag, oh Honorable Moderator, and if you do fill them, typical polyester fillers won't work. The rust will come back, and it will come back fast. Poly fillers absorb water, swell, and promote rust. Whatever you use better be impervious to water and swelling. I've done a few rustorations, and the epoxy filler is your friend.
|03-11-2009 09:48 AM|
|Fast Eddie D||
Pinholes are bad, bro. Once rust hs pinholes it's almost guaranteed to come back again and again.
If you must fill them, you have to use something impervious to water. You might try POR-15 2 part epoxy filler, which cures hard as a rock and waterproof, or even (GASP!) POR-15 "spot putty", which is thick POR-15 in a tube. And definately do something about the back of the panel.
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