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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-12-2009 02:19 AM
techinspector1 Truck = heavy. Needs all the cubic inches and gear it can get. 383/700R4
Please have your builder explain the $1500 and then post it on here.
03-12-2009 01:57 AM
curtis73 Here is another example taken to the extreme.

here is the same exact combination of head flow, cam, compression, etc but I changed the bore and stroke to simulate a Caddy 500 engine. Notice it still makes the same exact HP, but look at what the extra cubes did to the torque and where the peaks happen.

In this case, adding the cubes won't add hp, but it does make for a super streetable package that only has to rev to 3500 RPMs to get the same performance as the 350 at 5000 rpms.

And do I even need to mention the additional 150 lb ft of torque at 1000 fewer RPMs Its no wonder people use Caddys for airboat engines
03-12-2009 01:47 AM
curtis73 Big HP means big RPM. For a heavy vehicle or a street vehicle that is a no-no unless its just a weekend cruiser.

Big engine means that the same HP is available at a lower RPM with more torque at low RPMs. For example, look at the comparison below. Those two dyno simulations are for a low-power small block, but take a look at them. The two are absolutely identical, but one is a 355 and the other is a 383. The only difference in those two charts is the stroke of the engine.

Same hp, but the 383 makes the same HP at a lower RPM and it makes gobs more torque at low RPMs. Leaving everything else alone and simply increasing displacement will do nothing for HP, but it will increase torque down low. But, you can also use extra displacement (along with cam, heads, compression) to increase HP while keeping the same low end torque. Make sense?

When dealing with heavy vehicles or street driven vehicles, cubic inches are your friend.

And I agree with Cobalt. $1500 is a bit steep.
03-12-2009 01:04 AM
cobalt327 I'm curious as to why the big difference in money.

What does your builder account for the diff? And this is not a knock on your builder, BTW.
12-30-2007 06:07 AM
speedydeedy IMHO,For a street driven truck The HP is not the main factor as max HP is usually at a higher RPM than you will drive most often. The torque is what matters and the 383 will ,if set up correctly, make more torque at a lower RPM than the 350. Thats why I say go 383. I have done it in a 65 C10 and yes you will notice the difference.Also The 700R4 has 2 advantages, It has a lower first gear that helps with launch, effectively like running a lower rear gear then at cruising an over drive that is like running a higher rear gear. When set up properly you get the best of both worlds. Great 0 to 60 and great drivability for long hauls.
12-29-2007 09:59 PM
CNC BLOCKS NE we have built some 383's with Vortec heads and have seen the same results as the engine in this link had AFR's
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...highlight=DYNO
12-29-2007 08:03 PM
abeis
350 or 383 for 1963 Chevy Truck

I am working with an engine builder on a motor for my 1963 chevy truck.

My options are a 350 with 400 crank shaft which will put it up to a 383 and approximately 420 HP.

Or, I can go straight 350 which will produce about 375 HP. The pricing difference is about $1500.

Will I miss the difference in HP if I go with the 350?

My installer is suggesting a 350 Turbo Transmission. Thoughts on the 350 Turbo versus a 700 R4 and how would each help my dilema on on different motors?

Thanks in advance for some thoughts.

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