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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-03-2010 06:59 PM
manchildau65
Problem solved!

I found the noise! Pretty embarrassed about my boneheaded mistake but either way, I'm pumped it wasn't anything major. I used one different cam screw (don't ask me why...) and it was making contact with the timing cover. I went out and bought a set of new screws with a locking plate and bolted it all back up. Everything sounds great!

I appreciate everyone's input and putting up with the multitude of questions
03-24-2010 08:30 AM
manchildau65 Good point, I was going to try and borrow a friends 'Mechanics Stethoscop' to search around. That would definitely help narrow down the area.
03-24-2010 08:02 AM
cobalt327 Have you tried using the piece of hose to listen with? This is something used by ALL mechanics, not just something that I dreamed up- you'd be amazed by what you can hear.
03-24-2010 07:58 AM
manchildau65
Still Noise

I removed the fuel pump and rod, started the engine and the noise was still there. I also pulled the dipstick while it was running and the noise was still present.

With the belts off the front, I started the engine and felt both the timing cover and oil pan and didn't feel anything out of the normal. Someone mentioned that I should make sure that the harmonic dampener is fully seated because it holds the bottom timing gear tight. Is there any way to verify that the dampener is properly seated?

I think my next step is going to be tearing the front back down and looking inside the timing cover. Any additional thoughts?

Thanks
03-21-2010 06:58 PM
F-BIRD'88
Quote:
Originally Posted by manchildau65
Some more detail: the noise continues through the RPM range, sound is still present with accessories disconnected (fan, alternator, steering pump, water pump...), pullies have been changed out to another stock set.

The oil pan is a cheapie chrome auto parts version - same with the timing cover. If you were to further troubleshoot, what would your method be? Right now is the ideal time to tear into things... the front clip isn't even bolted in.
Why oH why would you want a chrome oil pan.

1. chrome holds in the heat.
2. when chroming a sheet metal part (Oil pan timing cover, thermos stat housing etc) the part is more often than not distorted and will leak.

3. Most all the cheap chrome engine parts are "factory seconds" that won't pass quality control. In other words they are JUNK. Nice pretty chrome plated JUNK.
03-21-2010 06:21 PM
techinspector1 Pull the oil dipstick out and run it. Sometimes with the variations of parts that us guys use, the tip of the stick can be hit by a crank counterweight as it comes around.
03-21-2010 05:59 PM
ericnova72 Oil pan suggestion is a good one, my brother ran in to this with his 383 and a cheap chrome pan, front pair of rods just barely touched it ot the bottom of its stroke. We didn't find it until is was in the car and running too.
03-21-2010 05:51 PM
manchildau65 Good point with the screw driver

Also, I'll remove all belts to minimize moving parts when listening.

Question:

I put a double roller timing timing gear set in it. Would the cheap timing cover not have enough clearance for this? If it didn't have enough clearance, I'm just not sure why it wouldn't be a consistant sound?
03-21-2010 05:41 PM
cobalt327 I would suggest a mechanic's stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held to your ear to isolate exactly where there's metal to metal contact.

Keep your body, cloths, hair , etc. away from the belts and revolving parts. No wristwatch or jewelry, either.

Don't use a long screwdriver for this. It works equally well as a stethoscope- and as a shish kabob stick for your brain.
03-21-2010 05:34 PM
manchildau65 Some more detail: the noise continues through the RPM range, sound is still present with accessories disconnected (fan, alternator, steering pump, water pump...), pullies have been changed out to another stock set.

The oil pan is a cheapie chrome auto parts version - same with the timing cover. If you were to further troubleshoot, what would your method be? Right now is the ideal time to tear into things... the front clip isn't even bolted in.
03-21-2010 05:19 PM
F-BIRD'88 Possible fuel pump push rod, internal fuel pump arm/diaphram return spring.

400 crank hitting the oil pan/crank scrapper? Cam bolts hitting something (timing cover)
Cracked fan belt pulley? Loose/missing pulley bolts.
03-21-2010 03:21 PM
manchildau65 Alright, I've loaded it to youtube, seem to be the easiest and fasted way to make the video available. Here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-tCzjfdbz8

Thanks for any help!
03-21-2010 02:28 PM
manchildau65
Engine Sound

So the engine is running smooth and is very responsive... however, there seems to be a unique sound that it makes every revolution. It is hard to describe, it really isn't a tick or a knock, how do I go about loading a video so someone could help me diagnose?

Thanks
01-23-2010 11:50 AM
F-BIRD'88 The cam you are using will require a modified distributor curve allowing more inital base timing at idle and less advance travel.
with that summit 234-244 cam:
You want 20-26deg base timing at idle and 34-36deg at max advance (around 3000rpm)
shorten the distributor advance travel to around 10 to 14deg.

Set the timing accurately using a timing light.
Verify the location accuracy of the timing tab/TDC marker.
they are often mislocated.

Use champion RV8C or AC R42T spark plugs in the #416 heads.

The cam is not a very good "truck cam"
the cam will want a high stall converter.

A dual pattern 218in-230ex cam on 108-110 LSA would be better for your "truck" application.

Unless you fully port the 416 heads don't expect to make 400hp.
01-23-2010 06:25 AM
manchildau65
Timing?

I've got everything I need to get going but am not sure of the timing... in the past I did it by ear and feel (I know probably not good for it). Any suggestions for my application?

Thanks
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