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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-03-2010 06:59 PM
Problem solved!

I found the noise! Pretty embarrassed about my boneheaded mistake but either way, I'm pumped it wasn't anything major. I used one different cam screw (don't ask me why...) and it was making contact with the timing cover. I went out and bought a set of new screws with a locking plate and bolted it all back up. Everything sounds great!

I appreciate everyone's input and putting up with the multitude of questions
03-24-2010 08:30 AM
manchildau65 Good point, I was going to try and borrow a friends 'Mechanics Stethoscop' to search around. That would definitely help narrow down the area.
03-24-2010 08:02 AM
cobalt327 Have you tried using the piece of hose to listen with? This is something used by ALL mechanics, not just something that I dreamed up- you'd be amazed by what you can hear.
03-24-2010 07:58 AM
Still Noise

I removed the fuel pump and rod, started the engine and the noise was still there. I also pulled the dipstick while it was running and the noise was still present.

With the belts off the front, I started the engine and felt both the timing cover and oil pan and didn't feel anything out of the normal. Someone mentioned that I should make sure that the harmonic dampener is fully seated because it holds the bottom timing gear tight. Is there any way to verify that the dampener is properly seated?

I think my next step is going to be tearing the front back down and looking inside the timing cover. Any additional thoughts?

03-21-2010 06:21 PM
techinspector1 Pull the oil dipstick out and run it. Sometimes with the variations of parts that us guys use, the tip of the stick can be hit by a crank counterweight as it comes around.
03-21-2010 05:59 PM
ericnova72 Oil pan suggestion is a good one, my brother ran in to this with his 383 and a cheap chrome pan, front pair of rods just barely touched it ot the bottom of its stroke. We didn't find it until is was in the car and running too.
03-21-2010 05:51 PM
manchildau65 Good point with the screw driver

Also, I'll remove all belts to minimize moving parts when listening.


I put a double roller timing timing gear set in it. Would the cheap timing cover not have enough clearance for this? If it didn't have enough clearance, I'm just not sure why it wouldn't be a consistant sound?
03-21-2010 05:41 PM
cobalt327 I would suggest a mechanic's stethoscope or a length of fuel hose held to your ear to isolate exactly where there's metal to metal contact.

Keep your body, cloths, hair , etc. away from the belts and revolving parts. No wristwatch or jewelry, either.

Don't use a long screwdriver for this. It works equally well as a stethoscope- and as a shish kabob stick for your brain.
03-21-2010 05:34 PM
manchildau65 Some more detail: the noise continues through the RPM range, sound is still present with accessories disconnected (fan, alternator, steering pump, water pump...), pullies have been changed out to another stock set.

The oil pan is a cheapie chrome auto parts version - same with the timing cover. If you were to further troubleshoot, what would your method be? Right now is the ideal time to tear into things... the front clip isn't even bolted in.
03-21-2010 03:21 PM
manchildau65 Alright, I've loaded it to youtube, seem to be the easiest and fasted way to make the video available. Here it is:

Thanks for any help!
03-21-2010 02:28 PM
Engine Sound

So the engine is running smooth and is very responsive... however, there seems to be a unique sound that it makes every revolution. It is hard to describe, it really isn't a tick or a knock, how do I go about loading a video so someone could help me diagnose?

01-23-2010 06:25 AM

I've got everything I need to get going but am not sure of the timing... in the past I did it by ear and feel (I know probably not good for it). Any suggestions for my application?

12-28-2009 06:05 PM

Hi guys, sorry it's been so long since my last post, but I'm excited to say that the engine/truck are coming togethor quite well. One final question for you all, what timing do you think I should set it at? I'll be running 93 octane with the cam and specs described within the first post. Thanks again for all of the input!
06-30-2009 02:47 PM
techinspector1 ......"They said that you should be atleast 0.030" over your bore size (still don't understand why)"

When the machine shop bores and hones the block, they add a chamfer at the top of the bore to aid in getting the rings to start into the bore when you assemble the motor. The actual bore size at the very top of the bore therefore, is larger than the rest of the bore. So if you use a head gasket with a diameter the same as the main part of the bore or very close to it, the gasket will overhang the chamfered part of the bore at the very top of the cylinder.
06-30-2009 02:24 PM
Originally Posted by manchildau65
So I've learned that I need to get a high torque starter, however, I've also seen that the 400 had different mounting configurations. I may have just answered my own question but wan't to verify that I need to look for a special starter for 400's only, correct?
Match the starter to the diameter of the flexplate/flywheel. Small diameter uses a starter w/the holes across from one another. Big wheels get the staggered holes.

Make sure the engine is also drilled and tapped for whichever you plan to use- the 400 I have has both patterns in the block, IIRC. As does most or all V8 blocks. Some V6 90 degree blocks don't.
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