|05-09-2009 01:23 PM|
|crashtech||If the epoxy is outside of the "recoat window," sand it no matter what will go on top of it. The recoat window can be found on the tech sheet.|
|05-09-2009 01:09 PM|
Thanks Brian for the great response.
I have this still bothering me. If you have epoxy totally cured: Do you have to sand it to put more epoxy on it or just sand before you put paint and sealers?
I thought that I read somewhere that you either have to sand the epoxy or spray another coat of epoxy on it (if it is totally cured) and then your good to go with sealers or base if you are within the new 7 day window.
I am only asking because the area I would do this are places like behind the dash or other tuff places to sand effectively.
|05-09-2009 09:05 AM|
First off, you need to read the tech sheets of what you are shooting. Second, there is a tech line at PPG you can call if you don't understand what is on those tech sheets.
1. Depending on where it is at and how well you want it to look you could do anything from just "scuff it" with a gray scuff pad to sanding it flat with 320. You are basically "painting", that is how you have to look at shooting a "sealer". You are "Painting" the car, how well do you want that area to look when done? The fact that you are sealing it you can step down to 320, other than you would want to be a 500 or so for paint, there is no difference, you are "painting" when you start spraying a "sealer".
If you want it real nice, take the time to use that green epoxy as a "filler" and sand it real nice and smooth, removing any imperfections you can.
That is of course if we are on the same page and you are talking about a "wet on wet" sealer where you will spray the sealer and then in the same session spray the paint.
2. Either way if fine, it makes no difference. But on the color issue, I would recommend using the one closest to the color you will be spraying, or at least the lighter of the two.
3. Don't know, I would say no. Most primers don't "tint" well, they may change a little but not a whole lot. There are "tintable" primers and sealers that do wonders but they start out very "opaque" unlike regular primers.
Again, call the PPG tech line.
4. READ THE TECH SHEET! This is a VERY important issue that is VERY well explained in the tech sheet. YES you will want to let it thoroughly flash before applying clear. And to wait until the high end of what they recommend the better.
|05-09-2009 07:37 AM|
Epoxy Prep also sealer question
I originally was going to paint my car green then I changed to a metallic gold. Problem is I have the DP40LF on all the trunk, hood and interior area that has been there for about 3 months. I have PPG 2K primer blocked to 320 on the exterior with a few very small sand throughs.
1. What do I have to do to prep the green epoxy for coverage with Epoxy sealer or 2k sealer? I would like to change it to a gray or silver.
2. With the sand throughs I know it is recommended to cover in Epoxy. If i do this then is it better to use 2K sealer tinted or just cover the whole car in Epoxy Sealer (PPG) that is closer to my gray/silver color wanted?
3. Can you tint PPG epoxy for sealing?
4. Lastly, after I base it how long do you normally wait to clear it? Within flash time or do you let it cure first?
Sorry for so many questions but I am ready to jam it in and then final wet sand exterior. I just need to know what I need to do to cover that darn green epoxy so I can get to the base coat.
Thanks a bunch,