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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-23-2009 02:06 PM
hinklejd I don't have too much a problem with the hardware grade, as I'm sure they've already done the math to make sure the bolt strength is sufficient for the installation. But I agree, for the customer peace of mind, it couldn't hurt, but it's probably not necessary and would add to the final cost.

The other thing I'd have liked to see is some loc-tite included in the kit. Again, it's probably not necessary since the kit includes lock washers, but I put blue loc-tite on all the fasteners just as another backup against the fasteners coming out. If I really didn't want the fasteners coming apart, I'd torque everything and put a tack weld between the bolt threads and the nut surface. But where do you draw the line? If I wanted to go all out, I'd use hot steel rivets and a big dog air hammer. But the cost/benefit ratio just doesn't support it.

While we're on the subject of installation, I'm planning on using the non-strut style A-arm lower control arms with air bags. Can anybody come up with a good reason to install the strut rod brackets if the strut rods aren't going to be used?
05-23-2009 08:51 AM
lt1tyrell Ya I agree, it is a fairly simple project but they could atleast put torque specs and give you a couple tips etc. Grade 8 hardware probably wouldn't have hurt either.
05-23-2009 08:44 AM
hinklejd When your torque the nut, does the cotter pin hole line up with the castellations? If everything lines up, then you don't have room for any spacer, regardless what the directions say.

I didn't particularly care for the lack of detail in the CE crossmember installation instructions. I would have liked to have had specific instructions as far as where to put bolts, washers, nuts, torque specs, that kind of thing. As it was, it didn't take too awful long to get the crossmember installed, but it could have gone more quickly.
05-23-2009 08:42 AM
redsdad If the cotter pin is fully engaged in the slots of the castellated nut once it is tightened to proper torque specifications, then the washer is thick enough. If the cotter pin is exposed to half or more of its diameter, you need a thicker washer.
05-23-2009 08:09 AM
lt1tyrell Ya I just left the strut rod to control arm bolts loose also. Some of the nuts were nyloc so I didnt want to waste them on the mock up. Anybody know if there is supposed to be a larger spacer that goes on the ball joint threads? The directions diagram looked like it took a thicker spacer. All I could find were the flat washers which I have installed in the pics.
05-22-2009 11:43 PM
hinklejd It looks good to me. The frame of your car is really light in the front, and the crossmember really doesn't add all that much weight. Once you start dropping in the engine, transmission, and all the front sheetmetal, the suspension will settle in. You'll want to use the jackscrews (the top coil spring mounts) to set your ride height. Ideally, you'll have the lower control arm parallel to the ground for the best handling and ride quality.

It does look, in the second pic, that your lower control arm hardware isn't installed completely. It looks like the two fasteners outboard of the lower end of the coil spring are not fully pressed into the hole. Did you do this as part of your mockup? Just asking questions for when I get around to getting my front MII suspension for my '48 Chevy.
05-22-2009 11:26 PM
lt1tyrell The spindle and ball joint look really funny to me but i figured this was just because there is no weight on it and the shocks are not in to hold the springs compressed.
05-22-2009 11:24 PM
lt1tyrell Ok so I just thought I would put a couple pictures on and see if anybody could see anything wrong, this is my first Mll so I just thought I would double check.
05-21-2009 07:03 AM
timothale
mustang II springs

The Factory had 11 different springs, for different combinations of vehicle and engine and options. I long ago lost the factory engineering data sheet I had. It showed static height and spring rate and final ride height. The guys that raced the pinto mini stock classes use to do a lot of suspension mix and match.
05-21-2009 06:16 AM
redsdad Don't cut anything until you have all the weight on it that is going to be on it and it sits for a while. You can not judge the final ride height without the full weight. And the springs will "settle" during the first couple of weeks.

And yes, the stock Mustang II used the shocks as compression bump stops. They had a metal cup and a larger lower bushing. I think the idea is that hot rodders will probably be more careful on bumpy roads than the average driver Ford had to design for.
05-21-2009 05:52 AM
bentwings You can cut the springs all you want to but be well aware that cutting them will increase the spring rate and make them stiffer. You may get away with removing 1 turn but not much beyond that.
05-20-2009 09:30 PM
lt1tyrell Ok thanks for the help, I was a little curious about cutting the springs because the instructions that came with the kit said the springs should be 12'' in height and CE springs do not need to be cut but other brands may need to. I guess it probably should sit high up with no weight on it.
05-20-2009 09:28 PM
enjenjo Actually a stock Mustang shock has a compression bumper on the shock shaft to limit compression. And the shock length is less than the spring drop, so it holds the spring partially compressed all the time.
05-20-2009 09:10 PM
powerrodsmike Many times the springs will need to be cut, if the car sits too high AFTER you have everything installed, you can trim a coil or 2. The bow may go away when the LCAs are level and at ride height, but the stock spring in a stock MII has some bow to it.
The shocks do act as a lower limiting device on most every aftermarket MII I have installed. The stock MII setup has a droop limiting bumper on the UCA, which contacts the spring perch, and nothing that I know of for compression other than coil bind..

Later, mikey
05-20-2009 08:48 PM
hinklejd Once you put some weight on the front end, the spring pockets will align and the bow in the springs will go away. The shock should not act as a bumpstop either for droop or compression, and the lower control arm should be parallel to the ground with the full weight on the car. The CE top spring pockets should have adjusters to allow for a small amount of ride height adjustment.

I think you're coming along just fine. Once you get it all together, then take another look at it and see what the springs look like.
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