|06-08-2009 08:00 PM|
|06-08-2009 07:56 PM|
Hey, guys- what if an exhaust guide was loose? I had problems w/loose BBC guides (they're removable) in a set of peanut-port heads once (but not w/coolant leakage- it was found during a rebuild)- and once was enough...
I would think if this were the case, the back of the exhaust valve might be cleaner than the rest.
|06-08-2009 07:45 PM|
Do all the spark plugs look the same. Was one a lot cleaner than the others. Usually a plug from a cylinder with water in it will be cleaner than the rest.
When you put the pressure test on, did it slowly go down in pressure.
|06-08-2009 07:20 PM|
Pulled the other head. Same thing with passengers side head. Headgasket stayed in one piece and looked in good shape. No anti-freeze in this bank of cylinders. Had it in all four of the drivers side, but think it came from the coolant passages as the block did not drain down.
All four cylinders had even carbon build-up. Has .030 over pistons, cleaned one to find out. I had a good look at two of the cylinders and they looked good. One had something I wasn't sure about, but kept trying to drag my fingernail across it and could not feel anything.
I will crank over the motor by hand tomorrow to check the other five cylinders.
So far I am guessing either:
a cracked or warped head
cracked block that I have not seen yet
one of the bolts had allowed anti-freeze up into the exhaust, not the cylinder.
If anti-freeze is burning in the combustion process, would there be big plumes of white smoke, or could it just put out small whisps of smoke?
I looked and never had seen any smoke coming out after both times it left puddles, but do know it was somehow internal as the four puddles were where the mufflers were, and where the collector bolted to the exhaust system.
If I do not see any cracks, and the heads come back fine, would I be stupid to put it back together? I really rather not tear it down to the bare block if possible.
Also, when they usually check heads for cracks, do they need to strip them? Or can they check them when assembled?
Sorry for all the questions, but I am more of a parts changer than a mechanic, and know to seek out advice from others who are wiser.
thanks again for those who can help me.
|06-07-2009 07:22 AM|
No, I tried to pressurize the cooling system again, and they just decided to start tearing it apart. I just want to be able to get this thing straightened out so I can drive it by July for Car Craft. Each year something happens to stop me. This year may be no different
The passengers side is next.
|06-06-2009 09:20 PM|
|06-06-2009 07:45 PM|
Well, drivers side head is off. What a PITA it is to remove them while still in the car
Headgasket stuck to the head and it looked perfect. Looked a bit in the cylinders and they looked fine with only lines were the cross-hatch pattern. I still need to rotate the motor to see all of the cylinders though.
Pistons had very little carbon build up and much of the outside of the pistons were clean, only real carbon was on the domes. I don't know, but it looks like this motor was pretty fresh?
If the pistons are oversized, don't they usually have that stamped on the tops?
|05-30-2009 06:35 AM|
|billsnogo||Unfortunatly, yes it is the sweet tasting green stuff. Trust me, I tried to convince myself it was not the last time, but can not ignore it anymore. Time to tear into her....|
|05-30-2009 02:15 AM|
Before you get carried away, are you absolutely sure that it is anti-freeze on the floor and not just condensation from the mufflers after parking it from a run on a night with high humidity and cooler air temperatures? Did you do a taste test of the fluid on the floor, and/or was it sticky? Although it is slightly unpleasant, the taste test never lies.
I've seen enough water from condensation come out of tail pipes to cause two dirty watercolor "paintings" on a garage door, and water drool and splatter from tailpipes.
|05-29-2009 10:00 PM|
A crack will not always show up until the engine is up to temp, then the leak will be evident. After the engine cools down the leak is all but nonexistent.
Do the compression and pressure tests w/the engine hot.
When you do the compression test (hot or cold), set the parking brake, block the wheels, disconnect the ignition. Then block the throttle wide open and crank the engine over- only let the gage "pump" three times- don't keep cranking until the gage quits rising. You need to be able to see the gage as you crank the engine.
You can have only one cylinder that pumps bad if the leak is between a cylinder and a water jacket.
When you do the cooling system pressure check, if you can, get the engine up to operating temp. w/o the cap on the radiator. Shut the engine off and pressurize the cooling system, then remove the plugs.
Keep the system pressurized until the engine has cooled off, then crank it over to see what cylinder the water comes out of.
If you choose to keep the cap on while the engine is warmed up, carefully remove the radiator cap by using the "first click" position to relieve the pressure if you don't have a pressure relief lever on the cap.
|05-29-2009 08:53 PM|
I had someone suggest a leaking head bolt. Would it be possible for the coolant to run from a coolant jacket up the bolt and down into the headers? Might explain why no big puffs of white exhaust smoke? Just guessing here.
Might rent another coolant system pressure tester and pump it up and see if I can see any coming out of an exhaust port as I have the headers off right now do to the start of the tear down.
thanks again guys for the help so far
|05-28-2009 06:20 PM|
|T-bucket23||Look at the plugs, if one is real clean that will be the bad cylinder. The other possibility is you could be sucking coolant across the intake gasket. Look in the runners before you pull the heads.|
|05-28-2009 06:13 PM|
I tried using the pressure gauge and got pretty much 160psi on all eight cylinders. So how can that be? I am getting frustraded and don't know how a cracked head or blown gasket would still hold cylinder pressure.
Just to give more info, I never noticed the anti-freeze coming out when the car ran, only after it had sat, and no white smoke plumes from the exhaust.
thanks so far guys
|05-28-2009 03:17 PM|
|05-27-2009 06:34 PM|
checking for blown head gasket...
Hi,pull the distributer wire,remove all plugs.get a SCREW IN compression guage,pep boys? do a compression test on all cylinders.write the comp # down.if,you have a blown head gasket,more than likely you will find 2 cylinders with low compression.(as compared to the rest.)example: if the first 2 cylinders on the drivers side are low,thats PROBABLY where the gasket is blown.so you only have to pull one head to change that head gasket. if only one cylinder is very low,,the gasket is probably blown away from other cylinders. while youre at it,with all the plugs still out,take a squirt can of oil,and give a cylinder 2 squirts,then do another comp check ,do all cylinders,if the comp comes up5 lbs or so,the rings are good,if the comp comes up 15 or 20 lbs. time to re-ring that engine.check the valves on the head you pull...have fun.
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