|05-31-2009 08:30 AM|
swapping lifter types is done sometimes, and has worked some of the time.
Another possibility is calling up a cam company and asking them what they can custom grind- they may be able to grind you a smaller soild roller with less intense lobes to make it a torque monster and lessen the maitenance.
|05-31-2009 08:08 AM|
I have considered a solid rollers, unfortunatly i am not looking at big cams--which is what alot of solids are. Stuff right near stock sizing is what i am looking at-- i want lots of torque and lower rpm power. Plus, after 15 years of messing with this stuff like valve adjustments, i'll admit--i am lazy. But one way or another, even if i have to pay for it in the end, it will have a roller cam. I just dont trust these oils today--even approved ones for flat tappet cams. Its just alot easier (and cheaper) to do on a small bock rather than big block.
However---ever run solid roller lifters on a hyd roller? Years ago on flat tappet stuff Crane told a friend of mine that the cam doesnt know what lifter is on it. Told him if he was going to do that, run .002-.005" lash and it should work good----and it did. Dont see why you couldn't do that with roller stuff. Just crazy ideas running through my head.......
|05-31-2009 07:38 AM|
|ap72||Just go with solid lifters and be done with it. It'll be cheaper and perform better. You will have to lash them about every third oil change, but if that is too much then you probably don't need to be asking this question in the first place.|
|05-30-2009 08:01 PM|
|05-30-2009 07:35 PM|
Check with competition products
|05-30-2009 10:57 AM|
Years ago I recall comparing BB and SB lifters side by side and found that the oil holes were at different heights.
I don't know what difference that would make or if the difference only occurred with the two lifters I was using for comparison. Just something to check and consider.
I also recall that one company - forgot which since it was so long ago - had the same part number for both BB and SB lifters, but lately I've seen them listed with different part numbers. Don't know why.
West Point ROCKS!
|05-30-2009 08:50 AM|
I dont think that I would grind any material away from the lifter valley area,JMO.
|05-30-2009 07:33 AM|
YEs, talking the early small block and MarkIV big block. Yup, figured the lifter diameter was the same so why not.
BUT, i went out and looked at the block this morning and noticed i would have to grind clearance around one of the lifters (dont remember if it was exhaust or intake), for the link bar to go around it, it would mean taking alot out of the block in the edge of the valley. I'll have to see if i can get a pic of the block later to show. I just dont know if it is safe to grind that much out.
|05-30-2009 07:17 AM|
Do you mean the early 265-400 small block into the Mark IV big block ?? If so,the lifters are identical except for the tie bars,so theoretically,your idea could possibly be made to work.If you are going from a newer model small block into a newer big block,it may also work,but I'm not certain about that.
|05-30-2009 05:49 AM|
Cheap BB chevy roller lifter conversion--like small block?
As some of you know, you can retrofit factory hyd roller lifter parts into a non roller lifter small block with very minimal work. Is there parts and pieces that can be done to the big block too? I have all the small block stuff here, lifters are same bore size, a little cutting and welding of link bars wouldnt bother me, but i am unfamiliar with factory BB parts. Like a small block, its just hard to justify $500 for a set of lifters when their may be cheaper alternatives.
Just found this:
I wonder if i could use this with the same 3.8 lifters(shorter than stock 350 roller lifters) that are used in the conversion of small blocks?