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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-15-2009 09:26 AM
keesey1985 my only fear with a replacement bell is that i will break the pump bolts next,

i am going to fix the mount issue, with leaving the front mounts how they are and placeing a bell housing mount the elephant ear style and the remove the tailshaft mount to frame bolts so it is there for support, also try to run tubes or somthing to the elepahnt ears from the tail mount,

i think this is what every one is suggesting from my veiw.

06-15-2009 09:20 AM
M&M CUSTOM Of the many places that may sell it, Jegs is one of them.

Just a quick internet search to look it up, found a link to Jegs, a bit pricey, but will enable you to still use your now broken transmission.
06-15-2009 07:50 AM
keesey1985 who sells the ultra bell??
06-14-2009 08:05 PM
Matter has been taken care of.

Originally Posted by keesey1985
yes one is my cell phone and one is my laptop.
Multiple memberships are not allowed on
06-14-2009 07:59 PM
ericnova72 Welding the bell isn't going to last. Replace it with an Ultrabell(bolts to front pump) or replace the trans case. The Ultrabell is a lot stronger than any factory case could ever be, just costs some coin.
06-14-2009 07:30 PM
keesey1985 i have done alot of thinking and i think the best route is to go with a front plate and a midplate by the bellhousing and leave the tail mount just for weight support(no bolts to frame). i will use the same hard bushing for all mounts.

real question is should i weld the bell or replace the case.

i really dont want to break another case trying to get it right.
06-14-2009 12:16 PM
barnym17 What it is is a piece of 2 inch square tubing about a foot long with 2 holes drilled to match the mount holes on the tailshaft.Then from here 2 square tubes up to the back of the bell housing. Then you can weld them to the elephant ears you can put the ears after the trans instead of in between the trans and engine if you wish .I would install longer dowels in the back of the block for extra support.You can use a piece of rubber or urethane between the frame mount and the ear for a cushion.A piece cut from a semi mud flap or even an old tire sidewall works well just drill a 1/2 inch hole in it for your mount bolt. Also for street use the brace isn't absolutly neccassary just extra insurance many race every week without it and no problems. Your current mount method puts to much stress on the bell it is trying to support the wt. of the trans and engine and will fail sometimes just takes longer than others.
06-14-2009 10:34 AM
keesey1985 i am going to reinforce the mount but i am still trying to figure out if i want to go all solid mounts or bell housing mounts with rubber, really i am lost i have read everyones posts more than a few times.

in order for me to use the side mount on the motor i will have to get a differnt steering colume and put a rack and pinion in it.

the trans didnt shift hard it was a firm positive shift no slipping barely felt a bump when driving it just shifted very high.

cleaning garage today so i can start to pull the motor.
06-14-2009 08:59 AM
S10 Racer By looking at the pics, your rear crossmember is nothing more than a steel strap. This is not rigid enough for a mount. I can see where it is sagging at the trans mount.
06-14-2009 08:36 AM
keesey1985 any one have any pics of what the dirt track guys do with the tail bracing?

several people mentioned it and its hard to picture exactly how its done, also the batwing mounts how would i mount them to a rubber or urethene mount??
06-14-2009 05:02 AM
barnym17 After years of seeing this in dirt tracking esp. on rough tracks I would suggest the batwing mounts will cure your problem.But I would also either leave the tranny mount on with no bolts or the bolts loose(to prevent binding) or build a brace such as many circle trackers use.It bolts to the bell and using square tubing runs rearward with a tranny tail mount on it.Just imagine goining from the tranny mount to the bell with rods for bracing and you got it my description ain't the greatest.But again just letting the trans rest on the crossmember without being bolted and using the batwings will solve the problem..The one other thing I can think of that will do this is driveshaft imbalance.
06-14-2009 01:18 AM
junior stocker I just went back and looked at you pics again, saw something I did'nt see the first time. You're not running a modulator valve, makes for a harder shift. Has it always run without the modulator? I still say midmount it, and you'll be fine. The front mount is a bit primative, but if it works, don't change it. What kind of car, engine, and numbers on the track?
06-13-2009 11:42 PM
keesey1985 yes my steering is bent i have to make new links with clevis ends the first launch it came back down and then my steering was off a little that was the problem.

it does have a full cross member at the tail housing but between the reverse mount master cylinder and the trans all that is left it the bottom half of it.

i am worried about cutting the bell off and going with a bolt on my luck i will snap the bolts.

i guess i am trying to get a diffinitive answer or fix for this befor i procced, so i dont procced in the wrong direction.

thanks everyone for the input so far i am still thinking over everything everyone has said and the pros/cons of everything.
06-13-2009 09:58 PM
junior stocker Front mounts/tailshaft trans mount; it just broke over time/use. If you were to use a midmount, that was also isolated, I think that would work; either a full block plate or the "type" used in tri-five applications. There are some circle track bellhousing mounts that have isolators. Cut the bell off your trans and go with an Ultrabell if you don't want to go with another trans case. But use a midmount of some type, and mounts that absorb more than the urethane type. AND, get your wheelhop problem taken care of.
06-13-2009 09:14 PM

Not the problem with the bell cracking..But it
Look's like your steering rod is bent.
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