|05-31-2012 11:53 AM|
1950 chev truck s-10 swap
hey i am a new member just reading your info on the s-10 swap with your truck i know it is an old post just wondering how you have made out with it?
|04-23-2003 08:38 AM|
I've done it and am willing to offer any advice I can. Pasedenahotrod and Centerline are right about it being a lot of work. I generally disagree with the "can't do" attitude that occasionally pops up on the Stovebolt site. On the other hand, the swap is a lot of work and there are easier alternatives out there.
Track width problems can be solved with a set of aftermarket rims. Depending on which S-10 model donated the frame, the worst you might have to do is cut 6" off the front and rear. The kickup is a real booger, though.
I see this question getting asked a lot, so I put up a web page <a href="http://www.commerce.usask.ca/staff/hipkin/burb/frameswaptech.html" target="_blank">here</a> instead of writing the same thing over and over. I'm far from being an expert, this is just what I learned on my particular project. If you want more info, drop me a line.
As for your question about locating the right place for the body, I would recommend mocking it up on the new chassis. Centering it side-to-side should be easy with a tape measure, so just use your wheel well openings to decide where you want it to sit front-to-back. You get to decide where it looks best to you at this point.
|04-23-2003 06:43 AM|
Pasadenahotrod is right. The Stovebolt forum has had several discussions on this swap and no one over there thinks its a good idea for a couple of reasons. First the S-10 chassis is too narrow and too long, and second the kickup of the rear frame makes the stock bed almost unusable. Keeping in mind that those guys are pretty knowledgable about these trucks that should tell you something. However the majority of them prefer restored trucks so their may be some bias in that direction too.
One thing I've read everywhere on this swap is that it isn't easy and is a lot of work. In your case you probably have no choice since the only frame you have is the S-10 that came with the cab. If you have to do this swap pick up the current issue of this magazine. <a href="http://www.classictrucksweb.com/toc/" target="_blank">http://www.classictrucksweb.com/toc/</a> There is an article on doing this same swap that should be of help to you.
From memory the stock wheelbase of your truck is 116" if it's a half ton and 125 1/2 if its a 3/4 ton. Track width (mounting surface to mounting surface) is in the 59"-60" range.
<a href="http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com</a>
[ April 23, 2003: Message edited by: Centerline ]</p>
|04-23-2003 06:29 AM|
The reason it came unassembled is that the guy you bought it from screwed up and couldn't get it together and passed it on to you.
The dimensions you seek are probably not to be found except by someone on this site doing the work and passing the info on to you. That's where you're lucky; these guys are very very helpful!
Someone here may even have attempted or succeeded in doing what you're trying.
In general it is easier to use the old car/truck frame and add more modern components to it than to rebody a modern frame. Trucks are easier since the floor area is relatively flat and the bed sits on blocks anyway, but you still have to contend with wheelbase, track, and manufacturing the braketry to hold up your front sheet metal properly and so on and so on.
Best of luck!
|04-23-2003 01:57 AM|
1950 chevy truck/S10 chassis swap
I have a 1950 chevy 1/2 ton body that I want to make a street rod out of. It came with an 80's S10 frame but unassembled. How do I get basic chassis specs for the 50 chevy - stock wheelbase, track width, cab location from the centerline of the front balljoints, etc.. Any help would be appreciated.