|07-17-2009 08:17 AM|
|richard stewart 3rd||
If you use oil that has the zddp in such as brad penn, you shouldn't need to add additional unless it makes you feel better/safer.
|07-16-2009 09:59 PM|
|chewyscool||What if you run 10w 30 with the comp cam additive? Is it needed? I too am comming up I my 500 mile change. This is what I ran for the first 500 after break in. I was told it would be a good idea to use the additve evry oil change with flat tappet.|
|07-16-2009 11:08 AM|
|richard stewart 3rd||
Two things, First don't use the Lucas in anything, I'll attach a link for this.
Second The 10w means that the oil will flow at freezing(I forget the actual temperature)
& there is no loss of it's lubrication ability, your engine builder is just trying to keep you from having a cam failure, & for him, this may be his fail safe, if you don't follow his directions you'll void the warranty, it's a judgment call on your part, your coming up on the 500 mile thing, the weather is warm so there is no start up problems with the oil being to thick, but come end of fall you'll want to use a multi viscosity oil, so I think it would be okay to go to a multi viscosity on you next oil change if you choose to, just use oil that will help keep the cam alive, like brad penn.
|07-16-2009 08:57 AM|
|07-15-2009 07:58 PM|
|cobalt327||I read some time ago that the long chain molecules were in part what made synthetic oil better than dyno oil.|
|07-15-2009 07:56 PM|
A few years ago I remember reading or hearing that straight weights have more "lubricity" because they require less additives due to the fact that multi-grades have longer molecular chains which break down more easily.
Many advances have been made to oils in the past several years so it might not be as true today but I agee with others who have said to follow your builder's advice.
|07-14-2009 03:57 PM|
If you have built and run more motors than your builder has, do as you wish.[QUOTE]
Never said I was an engine builder; just trying to figure out the "why"
Thanks for the input.
|07-14-2009 03:55 PM|
Well in your case i would stick with oils that do still have the zinc still in em like brad penn which has owned the old kendall oil faucets for the last little while
I used to be a big kendall fan buts its no longer the same oil these days as they were bought out and are repackaging ConocoPhillips products
It is harder and harder to find quality oils that are safe for older style engines
|07-14-2009 03:54 PM|
If you have built and run more motors than your builder has, do as you wish.
If he has built and run more motors than you have, follow his advice.
"Good judgment comes from experience, and often experience comes from bad judgment."
Rita Mae Brown
|07-14-2009 03:48 PM|
|07-14-2009 03:44 PM|
Is it a flat tappet(lifter) cam in the engine?
Are you using the Valvoline Racing oil straight 30?(I think it says VR-1 on the bottle)
The building may be insisting on this cause that VR-1 has a higher zddp package(wear additives) in it which will help your cam and lifters lifespan
You should always follow the builders recommendations, especially if you have some sort of warranty with the builder
|07-14-2009 12:33 PM|
Any Reason to run SAE 30 vs 10W30 ?
I know there are a lot of posts about the subject and varying opinions on the subject but my engine builder insists I run single weight 30 (valvoline) and not 10W30. What I have been reading 10W30 should be fine. It is a SBC 383 currently running Rotella 30W during break in but coming up to my 500 mile oil change. This is not a race engine (street) so I am thinking 10W30 should be fine. Also he wants me to run 1/2 qt of lucas oil stabilizer which I see no need to do either. I am guessing running single weight oils was the norm several years ago ?