|08-04-2009 09:48 AM|
Yep, I do all the maintenance on my vehicles if I can. Greasing the joint was the first thing I did after installing it in the yoke assembly.
|08-04-2009 06:12 AM|
If you are one who changes your own oil, don't forget to grease that joint. So few vehicles have grease fittings now that most people forget that grease is still needed in universals on a lot of vehicles.
Glad it all worked out for you.
|08-03-2009 11:40 AM|
Well, I finally finished the job. It never fails in that the auto parts store sold me a universal joint that was two small. Of course I did not find this out until I had everything apart. Other than that, everything went smooth. I took the entire axle/shaft/hub/bearing assembly out at one time. Chet, you were right, the bearing/hub assembly was fine, only the universal joint was bad. The directions you guys gave were right on the money.
I figure one of the true values of this website is this; The dealer wanted $202.00 just for the labor to do the job. Another auto repair shop wanted $370.00 to replace the whole axle/shaft assembly. Yes, my time is worth something, but let me say it feels good to keep that money in my pocket instead of handing it to someone else, particularly when I can do the job myself.
Once again, many thanks to everyone for all the help.
|07-29-2009 06:40 AM|
The bearings usually make a whining noise when bad. I dont think I have ever heard one pop but there is always a first time
|07-28-2009 07:20 AM|
|newdad1||It looks like the one piece hub/bearing assembly is making the popping noise. Where about should I apply wheel bearing grease on the new hub/bearing assembly? I'm going to replace the universal joint also, just to be safe. Do I have to apply the high temp wheel bearing grease anywhere else? And if so how much?|
|07-26-2009 08:12 PM|
You don't have to,It just make's it a little cleaner when your all done.
|07-26-2009 08:02 PM|
|T-bucket23||You will either want to drain the diff or put a bucket under it to catch any leakage. I usually do the bucket method but you can drain it, I dont think it is needed though and just causes more work. If you do decide to drian it make sure you get a new gasket.|
|07-26-2009 05:54 PM|
Yep, I have the one piece wheel bearing set up with 3 bolts holding the whole assemble in. Can I use a 12 point socket to take those 3 bolts off? I assume the inner axle seal is the seal that keeps the gear oil in the differential itself and keeps the gear oil from trickling down the axle towards the wheel?
Ok, thanks again guys. I will get started on this tuesday morning.
|07-26-2009 11:48 AM|
I was just using WD as a example. It may come off good,but you would be suprised how many outer axle stubs I sell for fords and jeeps because the threads get messed up when nut is removed.
|07-26-2009 11:32 AM|
Also when removing the axle nut, white lithium grease will keep the threads from galling.
WD-40 is not a good lubricant at all, especially in this type of application
If it has abs be careful not to break any wires
|07-26-2009 11:18 AM|
|prostreet6t9||You can change the joint with the whl brg assy still on the outer axle. I will normally leave the whl brg on the outer axle. Sometime's the nut will pull the threads on the outer axle on removal even after being sprayed down with WD.|
|07-26-2009 11:09 AM|
There is no C-Clips on that diff.
Remove diff cover to drain oil
Remove Brake caliper
If it's the 1 piece wheel brg set up,Look in the back of the knuckle,and you will see 3 or 4 bolts holding the whl brg assy in. remove those
Remove the whole axle assy as 1 piece.
When installing the axle, BE EASY sliding the axle assy in ! You want to be careful not to mess up the inner axle seal.
|07-26-2009 11:09 AM|
Depending on what style you have the details of the procedure is a little different. The overview, is you need to get the axle disconnected from the bearing assy, usually a large nut or with automatic hubs a few lock nuts and snap rings. I Usually split at least 1 ball joint and pull the spindle off and away from the axle, sometime splitting the tie rod off the spindle will help get it out of the way.
If it is a setup like a regular car, sometimes you can just unbolt the bearing and slide the axle out.
Slide out the axle and change the joint(s).
Make sure the grease fitting is accessible when it is re-installed
When you are done the joint should move a little stiff but be smooth.
|07-26-2009 10:46 AM|
Yea, I found the problem. Actually, you pro's told me were the problem probably was and were to look, thanks. The popping noise is definitly coming from the passenger side front axle shaft universal joint. Like you said, its probably frozen.That was the one without a grease fiitting.
I have replaced universal joints before, however; taking the axle/shaft is the fun part in this case.How hard is it to take out and replace? I have a hanes book that gives a general procedure. I am just a little squimish about taking the differential cover off and finding the C-Clip to remove the shaft from the differential housing. Also, I should probably put a pin type grease fitting in this universal joint like on the drivers side.
Whatever you can tell me that will make the repair easier for me would be appreciated.
Thanks for helping me find the problem. I would be more than happy to start a new post instead of having this one drag on?
Oh yeah, I don't have an acuator anywhere on the axle housing.
|07-25-2009 05:56 PM|
|eloc431962||If you checked with it on stands it won't always pop it that position. It really needs the weight of the jeep all on the ground, Take it and a friend to a big parking lot get out let the friend turn the wheel and slowly move the jeep forward till it pops while you are watching and try reverse also this will help you in knowing what it might be if you can see it when it happens. Hope this helps. Cole|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|