|12-18-2013 11:03 PM|
|NEW INTERIORS||Looking very good Jay !!!!!|
|12-18-2013 07:09 PM|
I am also working on a 34 3 window , I would advise to get the door seal and tape it in the opening while trying to fit the door, I took almost 3 hours to fit the drivers door and it works very nice. Take your time and think and rethink
|12-18-2013 12:37 PM|
The convertible top is now completely fabricated & our shop is considering making these as a separate offering for all SB '34 Roadster owners. If you have any interest, please pm me for the details.
Separately, the emergency brake is now completed using a Lokar handle and the other components in the posts above.
Now onto the pictures!
As always, Thanks for viewing!
|12-04-2013 08:21 AM|
Thanks for the info, Jay. I don't think I have a Currie. I don't recall seeing it stamped on the rear when I was under there this past summer(we're getting buried in snow now).
Here's some good info on the 9", and others, for whomever. Mine has the "hump" on the rear and ribbing that matches the C7AW-E on the first and second pages....
|12-03-2013 11:03 PM|
Mine has the word Currie stamped to the right of the differential facing the back of the car. Having said that, the serial number for our diff that identified the year range of the Ford Explorer model was on the top of the axle tubes. We then took that information and called their tech support at 714-528-6957 and spoke to a sales rep (ours was named Garrett) who was very helpful and provided us with the information to then find out what we needed. There's an all in one kit that Currie sells at any of the three big boys (Summit Racing, Jegs & Speedway Motors) or you can harvest a used Ford Explorer from 1994 to 2001.
In our case, we went with Lokar for the linkage & the emergency brake handle.
ps. This picture is off of their website & gives a general idea where to look on your vehicle.
Our 9" diff has the word Currie stamped where the sticker is on the differential in the example picture below.
|12-03-2013 09:07 PM|
|12-03-2013 12:11 PM|
A brief update, we're working on the convertible top as well as the emergency brake kit to make the "Beast" Street legal. Fyi, our Glass '34 Streetbeasts was sold to us from the factory with a Currie Enterprises equivalent of a Ford 9 inch axle.
No trailer queen here!
Per Currie Enterprises, ( and please pardon the bold font, it's how I received the email )
"THAT’S A FORD EXPLORER BRAKE KIT. ITS OFF OF A FORD EXPLORER REAR END THAT’S 94-01 YEAR SO ANY OF THE BRAKE PARTS THAT YOU WOULD NEED FOR THE E BRAKE WOULD BE ABLE TO BE SORCED EASILY LOCALLY."
|11-10-2013 08:04 PM|
I don't have the answer to your question. Heck, I just saw the email directing me to the thread! When it comes to the bodywork, I would have to refer you to the Gent who's building our car now. I can send you the name via pm. However, one trick to opening the doors was to shave the door at the door post at an angle to accomodate the beltline trim and bodywork. (Refer to Page 17 on this build thread).
Best of success to you Ray!,
|11-06-2013 12:14 PM|
very cool! your build is looking great. I'm back working on my build again. finally cool enough in my garage. i re-hung my doors to mark location on the frame so i can mask off when painting the frame to simplify clean up for welding.
i have a question, how much door work to get a good gap and open properly? i think i need to relieve the back side of the area of the door where that half round bead that runs the length of the body. what gap for the doors?
|10-20-2013 02:48 PM|
Your car is beautiful!! That color really works!
Couple new tricks with the new license plate holder. We glassed in bolts to make the license plate tray droppable from the underside & went with a Holley Dominator as opposed to the Edelbrock. The Holley had the electric choke that the Edelbrock did not.
|10-17-2013 01:24 PM|
Thanks for all the pics!! I own a CMC 34' Cabrio that I have owned since Feb. It was built in Southern Florida some time ago and the guy I bought it from picked it up about 8 1/2 years ago and drove it to New Orleans where I bought it. It has aged well, but like me, is showing signs of road use with chips and cracks showing up here and there! It has been a great car(also own a 37 Chevy Bus. Coupe) and more fun to drive than the Chevy. I have a few issues to fix and a couple of improvements to make it mine, but for now, I am spending a lot of time behind the wheel and lovin' it! I have an open 3:08 7.5" Mustang rear end but am narrowing a 99 8.8" 3:73 w/ a Detroit Locker with disc brakes(probably to 56") and installing late fall. Planning on changing wheels but leaving the 15" rubber in front with a 275 55 R17 on the back. Re paint with same color and new Tan top with tan leather.
Keep on keepin' on and make sure and let us know when you get it on the road!!
|10-07-2013 09:42 AM|
I saw Coker tire has 17" reversed chrome. Other places I was only seeing 15". Just hate the thought of all new tires too........
Thanks for the compliment...
|10-06-2013 11:30 PM|
The biggest challenge when upgrading wheels that you'll find is the jump between 14", 15" to 17". Everyone wants either 18" to 22" or 14"s & 15"s.
ps. That's a great lookin' car you got there!
|10-06-2013 10:19 PM|
Thanks for the reply, Jay. I figured I could get a 17" in there. My gap isn't terrible, I've seen worse, but it could be better. I think a bigger rim would be just right. However, my current tires are like new. I suppose I could sell them and get a little cash.....
My AC/Heater controls are in the center of the dash. Probably where most stereos are. My stereo is between the seats with the back sticking in the trunk....
Here's a side few that shows the tire gap. I have 14" in the front....
|10-06-2013 09:58 PM|
Hi Troy / Rodnit!
Me n My Dad would've LOVED to buy a mid project car, but we clearly didn't know how badly we'd be in over our collective heads at the time we started as you can clearly see at the beginning of this thread!
Our rear wheel size is a 17" inch wheel with a 30" tall tire. So yes, you could run a bigger wheel in the rear wheel well as the gap looks rediculous.
Additionally, we pulled down the lip on each fender to close the gap.
Once the car is completed, I'll go over the whole build in a Q&A to be the definitive build thread for all questions regarding the Roadster.
Lastly, we built our own lower dash as the one that came with the car denies the builder to proudly display their chromed out steering column and or bangs against the knees. I'm also not a fan of any builder telling me by way of a lower dash valence, where to put my car stereo. I'll put the car stereo where I darn well please
ps. We should be going to paint shortly.
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