|09-02-2009 11:24 PM|
I was kind of leery about trimming the crossmember only because I don't trust my welding on a piece like that, seemed harder, and I was worried about alignment. Due to the cost effectiveness (haha) of trimming the pan, I figured we would try it first.
I would have liked to make a new crossmember that would have been very nice
|09-02-2009 08:31 PM|
|345 desoto||Trim the pan, not the cross member...|
|09-02-2009 08:22 PM|
I had to clearance my Mr. Gasket 5qt (6qt counting the filter) pan,rear counterweight hit it slightly,internally balanced 406,a few taps from a hammer and it had plenty of clearance,also had to trim the gasket slightly. Things dont always fit as they should,aah the joys of hotrodding.
|09-02-2009 05:40 PM|
|09-02-2009 04:19 PM|
|TorkMonster400||So I decided to cut the pan first and try my luck at that and then maybe we could do more if need be. Here is some pics of the beginning rough work. should be done tomorrow. I had some help from a friend. and all the work cost was a McDonalds Lg sweat tea Can't beat the price everything looks good so far more pics tomorrow. what do you guys think?|
|09-01-2009 11:00 PM|
|TorkMonster400||Wow that looks great I think I could do something like that I can still remove the pan and have that modded or I can do the frame. I like the looks of the way s10 did that frame. I can't believe I didn't see this before the build. I guess this is why you always fit first! Oh well, I will let you guys know what happens tomorrow w/ pics|
|09-01-2009 10:35 PM|
|S10 Racer||I agree with the crossmember mod. Here is an extreme front crossmember modification that I done to get a BBC in my son's S10. This is an 8 qt. pan. NO FEAR!!!!|
|09-01-2009 10:02 PM|
|09-01-2009 05:04 PM|
|09-01-2009 04:22 PM|
|TorkMonster400||originally the motor was going into a camaro with more clearance but the pan had ground clearance issues so I chose that one. Techinspector your plan was one that I have considered but I was kinof scared to go hackin on the crossmember. Will that ruin any structural integrity or anything.|
|09-01-2009 03:15 PM|
I would use the oil pan you now have as-is. Before I'd cut it up, I'd butcher the x-member. But before I'd do either, I'd get the right 7 qt. pan for the application, like HERE.
Same "footprint", good depth- I'd not run 7 qts. in any 7 qt. oil pan, instead run 5 and get the oil the heck away from the rotator. There's no advantage in running the oil pan full, that defeats the purpose, IMO.
Those wide, flat pans are not my first choice, unless ground clearance is a big issue. The oil still will end up close to the crank and is harder to keep the pick up submerged w/o proper baffles, gates, etc.
|09-01-2009 11:42 AM|
|techinspector1||I'll take the contrarian point of view. Had the same problem with putting a 455 Olds into a '72 Chevy Luv pickup (Isuzu). Winched the motor out, fired up the gas axe and trimmed a rectangular piece out of the crossmember, the re-plated the crossmember. Would not even consider changing or altering the pan.|
|09-01-2009 11:07 AM|
modding the pan does seem a bit more economical I have a welder and some small scrap that would work im going look into this as my first option. I'm going to pull it tomorrow make some templates and go from there. i'll post pics
Right now the motor is about 1 to 2 inches back to far now because I can't go anymore forward (refer pic 2,3,4) and I need those inches.
Thanks ericnova72 for your input.
Thanks cobalt327 thats the same gasket that I have now so our brains are workin the same I guess
|09-01-2009 09:21 AM|
We solved this on an S-10 by just modifying the pan. Slant the front edge of the sump. Cut that entire front edge of the sump across from one side to the other at 30° angle to clear the crossmember and weld a new piece in, maybe an hours work with the pan off. It was the easiest fix, it was a similar Moroso pan that had a screen, scraper and trap doors built in, there was no way we weren't going to use it, a stock pan wasn't even considered.
If you have a welder, the crossmember cut and box is also a very viable option, racers do it alot to fit even bigger pans than you have.
With the motor the looks of what you have performance-wise, I would not even consider a stock pan, especially with a strokers longer stroke/bigger counterweights reaching down into the pan and pulling the oil up out(bad windage).
Summit also told us the pan would fit, no problem!! Catalog says it fits all GM rear drive except Vega, '62-67 Chevy II, and Chevelles with steering linkage behind the crossmember(duh, which don't exist ) Ha Ha.
I don't think you will gain much clearance to move the engine forward with a stock pan either, maybe 3/4" or so. You don't have a lot of room up front for radiator and water pump even with a short pump, and moving the engine forward may also cause problems with header fit.
|09-01-2009 08:31 AM|
The front oil pan to timing chain cover seal has to be the correct one, also. '75 and later have the thick seal, '74-back uses the thin seal, as shown:
2 1/4" = thin (early 1955-‘74) seal,
2 3/8" = thick (later 1975-‘85) seal.
Measure from the mounting flange where the pan bolts to the block down to the deepest part of the seal "tunnel".
Re-sealing the pan can be a chore if you are doing it in the truck, and reusing the old gaskets and seals. If you decide to replace the gaskets and seals w/new, I'd suggest you use a 1-piece oil pan gasket from FelPro. Prolly one of these two:
PN1880 1975-79 thick front seal LH dipstick; side rails trimmed for strokers, or
PN1885 1957-74 thin front seal LH dipstick.
They come notched to clear stroker cranks, include plastic pieces that hold things in position while you cinch things up. It is a much better gasket from a sealing and installation stand point (especially if doing it under the vehicle), IMO.
Do not over tighten the pan, despite the type of gasket/seals used- that's the quickest way to get leaks.
I also personally don't use silicone sealer except at the corners- RTV tends to lube the gasket and allow it to squeeze out of position when the pan's tightened down. The 1-piece gasket will have instructions w/it- I believe the recommendation is to use it dry, IIRC. I know some builders still will use some RTV at the corners, for that matter, so does the factory.
I've read here the correct sealant for the pan/seal corners is GM part #12346141 or its equivalent. I believe there was another similar OTC (parts house) sealant, called "The Right Stuff".
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