|10-26-2009 09:35 AM|
well now that its out in the sun ,,,I do have some mottling on the hood and doors. Can I just sand the clear and spray more base on that or do i need to sand ,prime, base then clear to fix it. I may just leave it ,as its not real bad , but noticable.
|10-25-2009 09:40 PM|
Wow, really 600 grit? I would never have thought to go that coarse. Although that will cut fast..LOL ...how thick is two coats of clear? Also , if my last clear coats look good (no real peal) I can just go right to buffing?
|10-25-2009 09:24 PM|
Sand it with 600 grit wet. If you try anything above 800 grit you will have adhesion problems. If the paint is too slick, the new paint won't stick.
Cox Custom Cars
|10-25-2009 06:44 PM|
ok , got it thank you. I'll sand all of the car with 800? or will 1000, 1500 be better? There really isn't a lot of orange peal , lot less than I thought. I was surprised how easily the large runs sand out.
Believe it or not, I change the plastic masking between every coat, except over the wheel wells . Would the paper be better? I noticed the plastic really attracts the over-spray.
Yes more light is definitely going to be added before the last clear is shot.
I did shoot in "street clothes", I'll get a bunny suite before spraying more.
For a word of encouragement to other newbies who are going to attempt this task, go for it !!! Just listen to the advice on this forum and you will have a nice paint job!
thanks again guys !! I read many of the how too's of painting , gun set up, body work , bondo usage. I'm very proud of what i have accomplished!!
The furnace is not used during painting, only before starting painting to get it warm , then off during painting, then after the temp drops enough after painting.
|10-25-2009 05:25 PM|
With 3 coats of clear on already,your better off to resand and clear.
Problem will be too much build and you'll end up with urethane wave.
Anytime you do seperate clear sessions,it's always recommended to flatten out the first job as there will be variances in thickness as well as o'peel.
If you just scuff it,yeah,it will stick fine but your building another coat of "plastic" and the variances will start to distort the "clairity" of your finished cover of the base.
Nice work for your first go and get some light on that off side because the second round of clear will go a lot slicker and also more likely to run on ya.
You could be picking up more trash than necessary from the plastic masking.
Base has a tendancy to flake off when you come back with the clear.
Also,Use some Tyveck coveralls or such,Spraying in "street clothes" is about the worst thing you can shoot in as the fibers are constantly coming loose and ending up on the job. Then there is the heater.Make sure you use deicent filters in it too. Trash IS controllable,Just takes some attention to the "little things" and thought about the AIR going in,out,and around.
|10-25-2009 04:59 PM|
Thanks guys ! I'm very proud of my first attempt. I was concerned at first , it looked like the blue wasn't covering well. Also I was afraid of getting the base too wet and cause zebra striping. But it looks fine so far, we'll see what it looks like in the sun.
I do have another question, can I just 800 the runs out and then scuff the rest of the car with scotch brite before doing the last clear coats? I'm going to put on 2 more coats of clear, then do the final sanding / polishing.
|10-24-2009 11:41 PM|
|Kevinsrodshop||Nice job. I like that color. I always end up with a little dust in my paint jobs as well. You'd need a really high end booth with lots of filtering to get it flawless in the first try. Thats why color sanding is so great, but a lot of work.|
|10-24-2009 09:38 PM|
|Blazin_Jason||I'd be happy with myself if I can do a job like that!|
|10-23-2009 09:25 PM|
It came out pretty good with the exception of some big nasty runs on the "dark side" I couldn't see very well on the passenger side of the car.
I'll wait a few days , scrape off the runs, wet sand with 1500 grit paper. I have 3 coats of clear now, after sanding i'll ad 2 more. then sand and buff for the final finish. Its virtually impossible to rid my garage of all contaminants.
Thanks again for all that helped me do this! it is amazing how bad of a cloud the clear creates!
|10-22-2009 09:05 PM|
Ok , Just wanted to be sure.
Thanks , i'll post pix when im finished.
here is what it is soo far, actually yesterday when i washed it off, right now its completley in PPG epoxy primer/sealed.
|10-22-2009 08:53 PM|
|FRANKBULLITT||Make sure the metal is at least at the high temp.As soon as the overspray is gone turn the heat back up for the coat to flash off then respray and repeat the process, thats what we used to do in michigan when it was cold.But dont spray below 60 unless you want problems and use the appropriate reducer for the temp.|
|10-22-2009 08:18 PM|
Painting at 60 degrees
I have a question regarding temp and omni MC270 Clear with MH277 activator. It's going to be around 55 to 60 degrees here tomorrow and I'm planning on paint my car.
Is that activator to slow for the temp ?
I can go get a can of MH276 fast activator, but dont want to if not needed.
I'm planning on getting the garage temp up to 75 degrees or so , then shut off furnace , turn on the ventilation and paint. The garage will slowly drop to around the outside temp..Then once all the over-spray is gone , turn on furnace again bring temp up to 75 degrees or so.
So am I going to be OK?