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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine> 383 driving me crazy, help with tuning issues (Holley Street Avenger)
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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-01-2009 09:31 PM
price
holley crap

Put an Edlebrock carb on the engine and use the Holley for a paper weight.LOL
12-01-2009 08:49 PM
dklong try a different ignition module , it almost sounds the module is'nt changing the dwell with the engines rpm's. it's rare to get 2 bad carbs , especialy 2 different name brands or try another distributor.or maybe try dropping the feul pressure down 1 or 2 psi.
12-01-2009 07:40 AM
cobalt327 I've used PTFE resin in powdered form to make gaskets (not just carb) non-stick. It works well in most cases- and is better than nothing in ALL cases.

The powder I use came from a pyro supplier (it is used in some hyper-burst comps). It is also available from piano tuner/supply outlets. McMaster-Carr carries it in a 14 oz. aerosol, ~$10.00/ea. Better to my way of thinking, is to get it in 'bulk', that is, non-aerosol- just a container of the PTFE powder.

For carbs, I've used it w/chapstick, tallow, lard, spray and liquid adhesive, "neat", white grease, vaseline, Pam, etc. All worked acceptably except neat and the adhesives. Don't use silicone or hylomar.

A light coating of one of the above followed by a thorough coating of the powder will suffice. But the surfaces must be clean, w/no old gasket material left behind- at all.

It sometimes helps to have the carb warm when it's disassembled- this is true whether or not the gaskets have been treated, and seems to work the best w/the "non-stick" gaskets.

Just DO NOT warm a carb in your food oven! A hot air gun will suffice. Try it on a bowl and see if it helps. If it does, use it for the remaining gaskets.
12-01-2009 06:41 AM
Tech @ BG [QUOTE=OLNOLAN]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech @ BG
My understanding from outside of the building was that the ones corroding were made with zinc from China that had a lot of lead content. Here is a link that may help you with the one you have.

http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=174[/QUOTE

Hey BG/Tech, Thanks, I might call summit and get my invoice # cause it was bought right in that time span. One of them shiny zinc thangs. When it started giving me issues and found the corrosion. I went dug a real old double pumper outa my junk pile, cleaned and kit, works good. Made when Holley still did em right.
Oh, I thought the CHERRY chapstick was for cork gasket release and the blue ones were specifically marketed as reusable/non stick? What's your take on it, or were you born yet when us oldudes were using the cork?
Tanks in advance.olnolan
hah.. I remember the old cork ones and hated them. Lots of clean up time to scrape all the pieces off. Not sure on the blue ones as ours are red but it really depends on how long they sit up dry after being wet as to how non-stick they are. We've seen guys put all kinds of stuff on them though even including spraying them with Pam.
12-01-2009 06:38 AM
OLNOLAN
Tanks

[QUOTE=Tech @ BG]My understanding from outside of the building was that the ones corroding were made with zinc from China that had a lot of lead content. Here is a link that may help you with the one you have.

http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=174[/QUOTE

Hey BG/Tech, Thanks, I might call summit and get my invoice # cause it was bought right in that time span. One of them shiny zinc thangs. When it started giving me issues and found the corrosion. I went dug a real old double pumper outa my junk pile, cleaned and kit, works good. Made when Holley still did em right.
Oh, I thought the CHERRY chapstick was for cork gasket release and the blue ones were specifically marketed as reusable/non stick? What's your take on it, or were you born yet when us oldudes were using the cork?
Tanks in advance.olnolan
12-01-2009 06:38 AM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
It sounds like the supplier used TWO sheets of less thickness to form the gasket and depended on the press/punching of the gasket to hold the two pieces together.
Not a gasket maker but that may be the case. Look real hard at the pictures he posted at the exposed sides and you will see the white fibers I was referring to. Maybe they punched out the thinner gaskets and then glued them together or the two sheets where glued together then punched out. Looking at the ones I have here the white fibers appear to be glue but then you can take each half and break them down further into many layers as well by separating them with a finger nail.
12-01-2009 06:26 AM
cobalt327 It sounds like the supplier used TWO sheets of less thickness to form the gasket and depended on the press/punching of the gasket to hold the two pieces together.
12-01-2009 06:12 AM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by OLNOLAN
Carburetor defects can drive even a good carburetor man nuts. If the SOB is new, none of this crap is supposed to happen. I've got a 3310 750 that has the flaking metal issue(which turns in to a corroded POS)metal is so pitted up its junk. I was blaming it on the eythanol blended gas, till I picked up on the defect issue. Wonder if I could proof of purchase get a new carb?
LOL, You gotta use CHERRY chapstick on them gaskets, not just any chapstick. Ha olnolan
My understanding from outside of the building was that the ones corroding were made with zinc from China that had a lot of lead content. Here is a link that may help you with the one you have.

http://www.holley.com/HolleyNews/article.asp?ID=174
11-30-2009 08:59 PM
OLNOLAN
Power Valve Gasket

Oh, I forgot, good call Cobalt327.olnolan
11-30-2009 08:32 PM
OLNOLAN
Carb Defects

Carburetor defects can drive even a good carburetor man nuts. If the SOB is new, none of this crap is supposed to happen. I've got a 3310 750 that has the flaking metal issue(which turns in to a corroded POS)metal is so pitted up its junk. I was blaming it on the eythanol blended gas, till I picked up on the defect issue. Wonder if I could proof of purchase get a new carb?
LOL, You gotta use CHERRY chapstick on them gaskets, not just any chapstick. Ha olnolan
11-30-2009 07:55 PM
Tech @ BG Btw to the op this will cause one to be rich at idle like you found as it is just like leaving the pv loose. The 2 halves do not seal so fuel leaks past them.
11-30-2009 07:53 PM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Tech @ BG is right, I've seen these power valve gaskets split like this too. To someone not familiar with the gasket, it splits so good that it almost looks like it is two gaskets, but it exactly matches Tech's explaination. I never knew what the cause was however, thanks for the info.
Best we have been able to tell it was a bad batch of gaskets. Not really a good way to test them unless we have a run show up real rich and pull one down but like I said I am pretty sure Holley gets theirs form the same vendor as us as well. I have some on my shelf for training purposes that look just like the one that the op posted that came out of his Holley.
11-30-2009 06:41 PM
ericnova72 Tech @ BG is right, I've seen these power valve gaskets split like this too. To someone not familiar with the gasket, it splits so good that it almost looks like it is two gaskets, but it exactly matches Tech's explaination. I never knew what the cause was however, thanks for the info.
11-30-2009 06:13 PM
JLeatherman I can't really say what the sides of the gasket that were against the block and the PV looked like. It was really stuck fast to each and I had to scrape it off in segments to get ready for a new gasket. I will say this, the faces in the middle were pretty smooth. I suppose it could have been a single gasket that separated, but there must have been some kind of weird defect to make it shear perfectly in half and fairly smoothly like this. There's a little bit of that white stuff in the bowl too. Wasn't sure where it came from. Either way, I presume that this was the primary issue with my over-rich condition? Sure cleared up a good bit with a new gasket.
11-30-2009 01:39 PM
Tech @ BG
Quote:
Originally Posted by JLeatherman
I had a eureka moment this weekend and I was not just having normal issues with this carb. I took the bowls off finally to make sure the PV was the correct 6.5 that it should have come with and not an 8.5 for some reason, cause that's what it was acting like. You know what I found?



That's right, that is my PV with TWO gaskets on it from the factory! That's why it ran a bit rich through the whole range, but not rich enough to be a blown PV. It was leaking fuel between the gaskets. I pulled both gaskets off, cleaned it up, and put a new gasket on it. Reassembled the carb at baseline settings again and you know what? The car runs so much better. I still have the usual Street Avenger stumble to correct, but it's not doing all the stuff it was before. Just a bit of hesitation off the line. Atleast now it idles, stops, and doesn't smoke me out of my garage.
Actually not two pv gaskets but 2 halfs of one. We have had that problem before and the gaskets prob come from the same supplier but what happens is when the pv is tightened it spins the outer half against the inner and splits the gasket like you see there. If you look real hard you will see each half has a somewhat smooth and shiny side while the other is a little rough and has small particles of white showing.
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