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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-12-2010 08:14 AM
chevy1500z71 got a video of it finally
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWzxNpDwIRA
01-25-2010 08:25 PM
chevy1500z71 alright, got some pics. heres how it sits as of now, yes thats the exhaust haning down, theyre 4" tips, you either love them or hate them lol. the diesel guys like em, everyone else says they are silly, the system sounds amazing, its got a more aggressive sound then open headers but it still shuts up quiet enough in overdrive. the sticker on the cab corner covers a rust hole:lol:

5" flomaster 30s

new oil pan and of course the nv4500

still need to bolt down the boot

and how my column ended up looking, its ok. if i come across the correct column cover ill buy it, but my home made little fiberglass insert piece works for now.
01-23-2010 06:05 PM
chevy1500z71 the truck runs and drives! more info and some pics tomorrow. and no more leaks thanks to a new rear main seal.
01-23-2010 06:28 AM
chevy1500z71 all my freinds think im stupid for detailing out parts that are never going to be seen, but i think the details are the msot important, thats what makes the difference between a stock truck and one that youd be proud to show off. i got the new oil pan on, it looked red befor ei put it on so i didnt repaint it and now that its up agains my red block its got a bit of an orange tint to it, im a litle disapointed with that.

well iv got the transmission and transfer case in the truck, drive shafts are in, new oil pan, pump, rear main seal, the motor runs like **** but iv got oil pressure and no leeks and a service engine code so ill figure that out, its fueling issue. the truck is pretty much done besides a few issues iv got with the clutch line leaking, need a pigtail for the reverse light, ect.

iv got 2 big problems here, first of all, the 4 bolts that bolt the trans to the bellhousing feel pretty pathetic, one of them striped out after about 30ftlbs and the other 3 i cold only get to about 35 before they started feeling too sketchy. the bolts im using leave about an inch of threads in the bellhousing, is this not enough? how long are the factory ones, i dont have them? and why on earth is the torque spec 75 ftlbs in the service manual, iv never seen such a high spec for aluminum threads. im going to drive the truck as it is for now becasue iv got to drive slow to break the clutch in anyway but i need to take care of this problem, anyone got any ideas? i know ill helicoil the one, but the other 3, do i need longer bolts or is around 30ftlbs right?

problem #2, the switch on the transmission that tells the ecm what range you are in(the one towards the front) has a 2 wire hook up, the t-case that my truck had in it had a 3 wire. i think the difference may be that the automatic needs the 3rd wire for when the t-case is in low range where with a stick all you need to know is 2wd or 4wd so that it can send power to the front diff actuator. the problem is i dont know which 2 wires to keep and what to give up. my hanes manual shows nothing for it in any of the wiring diagrams. the 2 sensors could interchange, they are the same thread but one is longer, the one that came out of my old case sits probably a half inch deeper in the case then what i took out so i have a feeling it just wouldn't work, although i cant hardly believe anything inside the case would be different just to accommodate a different sensor. the case iv got is out of a 95 3/4 ton, my trucks a 95 half ton, the cases should be exactly alike, both np241c
01-22-2010 09:18 AM
M&M CUSTOM My stuff gets color coordinated for the particular vehicle, the suspension and other stuff on my Malibu either gets matching yellow or contrasting black, or neutral silver.

My suburban has been getting most everything in black, still along way off from the final idea getting started on it, that one is still up in the air.

I had a red truck that got black accents all over, another black truck that got lime green accents, and a blue truck that got a different shade of blue for accents.
01-18-2010 04:04 PM
chevy1500z71
Quote:
Originally Posted by M&M CUSTOM
Very nice progress, it looks like you reduced the throws by somewhere between 33% and 50%, thats a HUGE difference.
o man, it is nice. every time i walk outside i cant stop myself from walking over to the trans and bang some gears lol. i should be able to get through the gears in a hurry, probably not car like, but enough to wear i wont loose any 1/8 mile time compared to my auto.

im probably going to paint the bellhousing red. once you get all the parts in the truck, once everything is in the way and you can only see half of the parts anyway you just cant have too much red parts.
01-18-2010 03:17 PM
M&M CUSTOM Very nice progress, it looks like you reduced the throws by somewhere between 33% and 50%, thats a HUGE difference.
01-18-2010 01:59 PM
chevy1500z71 short throw in action

works pretty darn good. atleast im impressed with it lol.
sorry, i forgot to make motor noises while i went through the gears... darn.
01-18-2010 01:16 PM
chevy1500z71 got the trans cleaned, painted, put back together, and the short throw is done and works awesome. i already have a trans temp gauge in my truck so i welded a washer on one of the pto covers to add some thickness and tapped it for the sensor. i made my own tool to tighten up the 5th gear nut, i torqued it to 90ft lbs and welded it in 4 spits to the shaft. heres some pics





painted the pto covers with the same paint i did my rear diff cover with, hammer tone gray, i think it looks nice on a diff cover rather then just black and its subtle.

you can see the spacer for the shift tower i made, it ended up 1.028" tall, so its a major improvement.
01-14-2010 02:16 PM
chevy1500z71
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbchevfreak
Looking good! Whatever else you do, run the correct oil in this trans! It calls for Castrol Syntorque, but IIRC, is not availiable outside a dealer. Check out Ford and Chrysler for pricing, as all of the big three used this gearbox.

If you use the wrong oil, the clutch facings on the synchros peels off, and will F up the bearings to the point of catastrophic failure very quickly.

Also, these were known for the 5th gear nut backing off.... mostly in Chrysler products, but it does happen. There is a clamp nut kit availiable to remedy this if it happens.

HTH
amsoil makes an equivalent made for nv4500s for only $13 per quart instead of 23 bucks a quart. i pressure cleaned the trans and its still dirty, im going to have to suit up in a rain coat and some mullet boots and spend an hour pressure cleaning this thing lol. for now, its short shift time...
01-13-2010 10:56 PM
sbchevfreak Looking good! Whatever else you do, run the correct oil in this trans! It calls for Castrol Syntorque, but IIRC, is not availiable outside a dealer. Check out Ford and Chrysler for pricing, as all of the big three used this gearbox.

If you use the wrong oil, the clutch facings on the synchros peels off, and will F up the bearings to the point of catastrophic failure very quickly.

Also, these were known for the 5th gear nut backing off.... mostly in Chrysler products, but it does happen. There is a clamp nut kit availiable to remedy this if it happens.

HTH
01-13-2010 08:40 PM
chevy1500z71
Quote:
Originally Posted by M&M CUSTOM
I don't have a clue about the newer bellhousings, but I know you can add a slave cylinder to an older bellhousing from either direction form the kits I have seen recently allowing an external slave to be used, another option is the hydraulic throwout bearing, it can connect right into the hydraulic clutch line from the stock systems in many different vehicles.

I have also seen hydraulic bellhousings with the slave cylinders on the right side as well as the left side fo the housing.
iv decided on just swapping the oil pan, mainly becasue iv got a circle track pan on a pickup truck that will never see a left hand turn past 35mph lol... came with the motor, and it held 7 quarts, so iv been using it. i believe this si what iv got http://www.kevkoracing.com/images/1086_full.gif not really the pan for the job (anyone wana buy a circle track pan?)

anyway, i havnt gotten any progress done, had to go to college Tuesday, i went to the place that pulled my wisdom teeth to check up on some swelling and they put me under and cut my mouth up some more today, gota go to college tomorrow mornin too.

got my new shift tower today so ill finish up the short throw tomorrow.

i really haven't even looked at the transmission i purchased becasue i havnt got a chance to clean it, i noticed the input shaft has a very small amount of play in it. is it normal to have some amount of play, im talking about something like 1/32 of an inch here, its not much, im just very paranoid of using questionable parts. hopefully ill get a chance to actually look inside this thing soon and ill probably tack weld the 5th gear nut if its all good.
01-12-2010 06:47 AM
M&M CUSTOM I don't have a clue about the newer bellhousings, but I know you can add a slave cylinder to an older bellhousing from either direction form the kits I have seen recently allowing an external slave to be used, another option is the hydraulic throwout bearing, it can connect right into the hydraulic clutch line from the stock systems in many different vehicles.

I have also seen hydraulic bellhousings with the slave cylinders on the right side as well as the left side fo the housing.
01-11-2010 09:37 PM
chevy1500z71
Quote:
Originally Posted by M&M CUSTOM
The O-rings are about the first thing to go in the shifters, they were a part of the oil in my transmission a LONG time ago, and with all the slop in my shifter I decided to make a bronze bushing slip fit into the shifter top portion.
I used the bench grinder to remove material down far enough to get it close with a slight taper to make sure it would self center as I pounded it in place with a 3 pound hammer and block of wood in the bench vise, it went from about a 15-degree arc of movement down to about 5 degrees, I didn't want to make it solid at the time, but looking back on it I could have without any problem.

I ended up breaking the welds on the collar where the factory spot welded it to the main part of the shifter handle, and ended up welding too much metal into the area, with the extra material I ended up losing first and third gears- because the shifter just wasn't able to clear the lower rocker portion of the assembly and up on taking the shifter out clearly seen what needed to be done. Grinding about 1/16th inch off the front and rear of the weld just below the rocker ball fixed it.

Extending the insert like you did will allow you to change the shifter throw when you raise the shifter and ball assembly the same amount you extended it, 1-inch should have cut your shift throws in half. My transmission cannot be modified in the same way as the top cover on the SM-465 has the shift rails IN the top cover of the transmission, but most people are unaware of the differences in the covers that will allow a different throw cover and shifter to be swapped on a different transmission.
well im glad to here i wont hurt anything by removing the o-ring style setup that it had. the long throws are the only thing that really made me think twice about doing this swap, becasue i run this truck at the drag strip and it cuts prety good times, i really dont want to loose that. the short throws are going to be nice and all, but wont it still be a slugish shifting transmission? iv never owned a vehicle with a manual, so i wont even know the difference but from what i here, these dont really like to be banged around, regardless of the throw.

i ran into an issue with the bell housing today that really pisses me off, i cant use my kick out oil pan becasue it hits the slave cylinder. this is the "internal slave cylinder" model, but i dont really understand what the difference is? will an earlier model external slave cylinder allow me to use this oil pan?
01-11-2010 08:13 PM
M&M CUSTOM
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy1500z71
i pulled the roll pin, moved it all the way out and burned it together the onmly thing is it used to slide in with several o-rings around it to dampen it, now its just solid, will that cause me any issues? i added about an inch, ill go to the machine shop and see if they can make me an equivalent spacer tomorrow.
The O-rings are about the first thing to go in the shifters, they were a part of the oil in my transmission a LONG time ago, and with all the slop in my shifter I decided to make a bronze bushing slip fit into the shifter top portion.
I used the bench grinder to remove material down far enough to get it close with a slight taper to make sure it would self center as I pounded it in place with a 3 pound hammer and block of wood in the bench vise, it went from about a 15-degree arc of movement down to about 5 degrees, I didn't want to make it solid at the time, but looking back on it I could have without any problem.

I ended up breaking the welds on the collar where the factory spot welded it to the main part of the shifter handle, and ended up welding too much metal into the area, with the extra material I ended up losing first and third gears- because the shifter just wasn't able to clear the lower rocker portion of the assembly and up on taking the shifter out clearly seen what needed to be done. Grinding about 1/16th inch off the front and rear of the weld just below the rocker ball fixed it.

Extending the insert like you did will allow you to change the shifter throw when you raise the shifter and ball assembly the same amount you extended it, 1-inch should have cut your shift throws in half. My transmission cannot be modified in the same way as the top cover on the SM-465 has the shift rails IN the top cover of the transmission, but most people are unaware of the differences in the covers that will allow a different throw cover and shifter to be swapped on a different transmission.
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