|01-06-2010 09:23 PM|
I've used the shark/gator bite fittings before. They are expensive so you'd never plumb an entire system with them, but they're great for a couple of things. First, you can remove them with the removal tool (like 75 cents) if you need to disconnect for any reason. Second, they allow you to transition two types of material together. I went from copper to pex with mine, and put 2 of them on my water heater because we tend to go through them relatively quickly out here (electric). Makes my next water heater install literally a five minute job.
Everybody I've talked to has had good luck with them-
|01-03-2010 01:33 PM|
|wheelbilly||I plumbed my garage with copper pipe before I started on my most recent project. I kept it low budget and sweat the joints, it was simple enough. I'd recommend that for saving some good money. I use air in one place really, so I just made a giant flat coil that I mounted on the wall behind my main work bench, with a drain at the bottom, and a run up to the hose reel. Works great, no leaks, first time sweating joints.|
|12-26-2009 08:05 AM|
My son just had a copper water pipe freeze and break. IT's cold up here. where's OUR global warming. IT was in a spot where it would be difficult to solder the new fittings so he used the shark bit fittings. the only drawback he said was they cost about 10 times a much as regular fittings. We plumbed my shop and used about 200 ft of 3/4 copper we salvaged out of a commercial remodel job. the main thing is to slope the pipe runs down hill with drains at the ends of the run. Do the air drop take outs by using an inverted U. go up, over, then down to your outlet fitting so any moistire will drain out the pipe and not collect at the outlets. We worked on a school lab a while back and they spec'd silver soldered joints and the plumbers had to be certified.
|12-26-2009 07:52 AM|
|12-25-2009 11:23 PM|
|jimfulco||Be sure you smooth up the cut ends of the pipe before you stick it into the Sharkbite fitting. Otherwise it might damage the seal inside the fitting. I used strips of emery cloth and a shoe-shine motion. We relocated my water heater using SB's, and they really made it easy. Whoever invented those things deserves a Nobel prize or something.|
|12-17-2009 10:46 AM|
Gatorbite and Sharkbite
Thanx for the info Spike. I have looked elsewhere for more info and I have found that some people have actually rigged their set up using Sharkbite fittings. I am going to plumb half of my set up with Sharkbite fittings to determine longevity. Any ideas, comments or suggestions are welcomed.
|12-13-2009 11:53 AM|
|spikebot 81||I am a journeyman plumber in washington st. We install air lines all the time in industrial buildings, schools ect. The fastest installs are with copper tubing but most engineers spec out soldered fittings. Almost all air compressor manufactures use a sharkbite fitting for contols to soleniods and auto drains and such. I beleive you'll be just fine with that install|
|12-13-2009 11:16 AM|
BatorBite and SharkBite
I am getting ready to plumb my two car garage with a Sear 80 ballon 5 hp air compressor which is rated at 175 max psi. I have looked around for systems that will allow me to do this, however I do not agree with paying the outragouse prices they ask for. I was at Lowes and Home Depot yesterday and saw copper fittings that are designed for water at both stores that only require the copper pipe to be pushed in. The one that Lowes carries is GatorBite and Home Depot carries SharkBite. I could not find any specs for GatorBite but I did find spec info for SharkBite through Home Depot's web site. The SharkBite fittings are rated at 200 psi. My question to you gearheads is could i use SharkBite fittings to plumb my set up with 3/4 copper piping or has anybody ever used this set up?