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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-29-2010 04:43 PM
What are some other good ways to get heat

are there better ways than propane heater a to heat my garage? i like the idea in the last post i just don't want to go to that extent.
01-04-2010 06:32 PM
Old Fool I have a gas fired forced air furnace that I heat my garage with when painting.
To control the firing of the burner I put a ball valve between the automatic gas valve and the burner.

Think of it as a gas grille on your patio, the regulator controls the pressure and the valve youturn controls the flow rate.

Works great to control the heat output level.

This modification works well for me but you should not do this modification as it negates any rating or listing that your insurance company may require, and if not done properly may kill you.
01-04-2010 09:30 AM
midify burners

My late brother in law was an HVAC tech and the local college kept trying to get him to teach. One time he installed a large unit in a machine shop and disabled some of the gas jets by tapping them and installing machine screws. this gave a smaller flame and less heat output. You will need to get some one to check that the pilot will still light all the burners. and not make hot spots in the heat exchanger. This modificaation probably will not have UL or your insurance company's approval
01-03-2010 01:03 PM
Old Fool
Originally Posted by thirdmouse
The garage is detached, 23' x 23' - a two car unit. Yes, I expect this thing will warm it up pretty fast. It's also not insulated. I know, it needs insulation, but it's just not in the budget right now. The house need more in the attic before the garage needs any. Meanwhile, I'm trying to restore a car in there, and it's winter time.

The thought of firing it up before installing it has crossed my mind. I should do that.

$100 for propane or $100 for insulation? next refill $100 for propane, insulation is paid for, refill lasts twice as long.
12-22-2009 05:53 PM
MT71c-10 Again I was not and am not trying to get you scared of this unit.!

I'm sure you are more than capable of installing this. When I read your post a couple of red flags went up for me, sounded as if you were "going to plug and play" so to speak. I've been in the heating and air conditioning trade for 12 years, and so I thought I would speak my mind.

These are very simple units, hook up gas, venting, electric and a thermostat, light the pilot light and your cooking.

I don't think hanging it lower than 8' feet would be bad, it happens all the time, But just something the manufacture must put in writing.

I would guess that your good with the propane gas feed, But I have seen mobile homes that are marked for propane running natural gas. This is hard to tell usually the propane orifices are smaller and run at slightly higher gas pressure. So if you hook up your propane tank and get it running, it should light fairly smooth (if the unit has not been serviced in a while it may light rough) BUT if there is any flame spilling out of the burner tubes, or the flame is very blue SHUT IT DOWN, and have a hvac guy look it over. Check your pressure regulator it should have either have a pressure of IN. WC. or PSI cast into it or on a rating plate. If it does not have one marked or is over 14 in. wc. (or 0.48 psi) do not use it.

The youtube was just one video of a big natural gas explosion we had not quite a year ago. It took out 3 100 year old buildings in the middle of our downtown, just a little reminder that it really can go BOOM.

So i'm sure you can do this safely, your on the right track. Any questions just give me a buzz. Good luck and enjoy your heat!

So after I read the post I looked into the wiki, and found a good start to garage heating, but lots to be written. So I did add some, I will continue to add as time allows.
12-21-2009 03:26 PM
thirdmouse Floor mounting is not even an option in my garage. Space is at such a premium in here. The garage is 23' x 23' with two cars and two motorcycles in it, and one of the cars is completely disassembled for restoration and all the parts of it are in here. Both motorcycles are easily accessible. When I think about all the large tools and equipment and workbenches and stuff in here, even I am amazed. This garage is an exercise in how much stuff can I get in here and still do anything. I can't walk in a straight line in here anywhere. It's very claustrophobic. You do with what you have.

The gas valve states that it's for propane, as well as the tag on the cabinet. I don't think I can miss there. It came with a regulator on the line. All I have to do at this point is connect it to the tank. The wiring will not remain as it appears here. This is the way I got it. I've used kerosene heaters for many years and I'm conscientious enough to not set combustibles around them. I'd use the one I have out there now, but I can't spare the floor space for it.

The unit stands 28" high. Here is the corner where I will hang it. It won't be 8' off the floor, but there's no way anyone will be walking underneath it. I will have to relocate my sandblast cabinet, probably over in front of the window, and cut some shelving back a little to open up the corner. The camera angle makes it look cramped up there, but there is plenty more than the six inch clearance all the way around that is specified on the cabinet. Being in the corner will allow plenty of room behind it. It will angle out and put most of the hot air right where I usually work. I hope to at least test fire it this week. My brother and his family are visiting next week and he could help me hang it. There is only dial up available where we live and I can't watch anything on utube. I take it that someone's garage is blowing up.
12-21-2009 08:52 AM
MT71c-10 You must use a B-type venting pipe for your vertical venting. It is a double walled pipe. You will need at least 5' of total vertical venting with 2 1/2 to 3' above the roof. B-type vent pipe requires 1'' of clearance to combustibles.

I would stick to the 6'' of clearance above the unit these units do get hot.

DO NOT mount this on the floor of your shop!!!! Fumes will ignite and you will have a toothpick factory where your shop used to be.

DO NOT run the venting out the side of your shop horizontally. It must go vertical.

MAKE SURE the unit has not been converted back to natural gas and is still propane fired before you hook any gas to it.

DO NOT connect your propane tank directly to the heater.
MAKE SURE you get you get the proper pressure regulator and mount it near the tank. YOU will need about 13 inches of water column of gas pressure going into the gas valve 10 inches at the manifold, any more and it can be dangerous.

Leave about 12'' of space behind the unit to any wall for proper air flow.

Mount the thermostat under the unit on the wall.

The 8' rule would be for fumes and dust combustion. Also because people like to use gas fired units for handy storage, papers on top of them cardboard boxes next to them, VERY BAD IDEAS. Most code only reguire 18'' to the burners on newer appliances, But you have no duct work to route the air flow. Go as high as possible!

You are installing a pressurized gas appliance in an enclosed space, use common sence and be carfull if you are unsure of anything call your local gas company or HVAC shop.

Don't want to get you scared of this just be carefull. Just a small reminder of this.
12-20-2009 11:14 AM
59 wagon man had a similar natural gas reznor brand heater in my garage up north you could work in a t-shirt while it was snowing outside. same thing 1 1/2 car garage free standing. hung mine in the corner double wall straight up thru the attic and . use thecorrect roof flashing and vent cap should be no problem . used what we called gimlet rods threaded metal shaft with wood thread on one emd 3/8" thread on other end to mount a piece of unistrut to the roof joists. then the top of the heater usually had a few female threads to insert threaded rod in the top to hang it. you may need more then 1 unistrut setup. you can also use lag boolts to hold the unistrut
12-20-2009 12:23 AM
dinger I would hang this in a corner, facing out toward the front of the shop, if possible. wonder board with a one inch spacer between the wonder board and the wall or ceiling should give you a good shield to prevent pyrolysis, if this was to be a concern. Sheetrock is dang near fire resistant, but heat with time can be a concern to the structure behind the sheetrock. Test fire it for sure before hanging.

Use the pipe recommend, should be something like hot water heater vent. Go as straight up as possible, use a thimble or flashing through the roof.

There's not a whole lot to these units, a valve, an igniter, a thermocouple, thermopile or 2. Much like a gas dryer, they are easily repaired. Good luck, let us know how this works.
12-19-2009 11:25 PM
327NUT That thing looks like its about 3' high or so, I would use it like a wood stove in the corner if possible. Build a stand out of block wall cinder blocks mortared together about 1 or 2 corses off of the concrete floor and somehow fasten the heater to it. You only have an 8' ceiling, it would be a lot easier that trying to hang it.
12-19-2009 05:48 PM
ogre 8 ft min is probably an ul listing requirement for grounding or an electrical thingy, lucky for you that doesn't pertain to you, you just need to remember to duck. the only problem i see is you need to vent up to draw the fumes out. if you can vent it throught the roof to get more draw on the flue. if you can't go through the roof, turn the pipe up and a couple feet over the highest point in your roof. either way buy a roof or wall thimble that is used for gas heaters, to keep your garage from burning down. good purchase price, but i think thirdmouse got a better deal on his rube goldburg mill.
12-19-2009 09:32 AM
Originally Posted by jetnow1
ask around to some local remodeling contractors- I insulated parts of my
basement with insulation removed during nrenovations which was going to
be thrown out they were happy to save the dumpster space. Jim
Not a bad idea. I'll check around and see if I can turn anything up.
12-19-2009 09:09 AM
thirdmouse Ha ha. Yeah, I think Al's Kaiser was a cardboard box with a couple tubes and a crank sticking out of it and painted black. It did put out more hot air than cold air.

I know, this thing is pretty old. That's part of what I like about it. That, and the fact that I got it for $10. I like old cars, old tools and old equipment. Take a look at my mill. It's ancient, but hey, tooling is still available for it and it has a power feed on the X axis. It's massive and heavy and does what I need to do. It was cheap too. No one else wanted it.
12-19-2009 08:09 AM
wildthing isn't that the air conditioner that Al bundy bought ? i think it was a kiser .lol
12-19-2009 08:07 AM

ask around to some local remodeling contractors- I insulated parts of my
basement with insulation removed during nrenovations which was going to
be thrown out they were happy to save the dumpster space. Jim
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