has anyone wired 220 in there garage before? i am not an electrian or anywhere near one. or even wireing a 220 extension cord so i can run from my dryer outlet to the garage
thanks for the help
thanks for the help
If you are not 100% sure what you are doing, hire someone. It is nothing to play with, you can easily hurt yourself or burn your house down.dieselsmoke said:has anyone wired 220 in there garage before? i am not an electrian or anywhere near one. or even wireing a 220 extension cord so i can run from my dryer outlet to the garage
thanks for the help
Old Rotor Flap said:I did the the whole thing myself after getting a permit. It's important to get the permit as it requires an inspection by a qaualified electrical inspector and the permit eliminates any potential problems with your insurance company if you have a fire. That's also why I keep the GFI in place from the original house wiring to the garage even though my TIG welder trips it occasionally.
That's not a big deal to me as I put my XM radio on a different circuit.
I used 1.25" metal conduit from the main panel around the outside of the house under the eaves to the garage panel and fed the wires through as I erected the conduit.
Not much to it. I was most careful when making the connections at the main panel.
I checked these items three times;
Yes the main breaker is off.
No, I don't have any tools in my hands or pockets that could contact the bus bars.
No, I'm not standing in a puddle of water.
The inspection went smoothly and was signed off with no problems.
Making a blanket statement like that without knowledge of any variables is wrong. An extension cord sized properly for the breaker feeding the circuit is perfectly acceptable and safe.ken konoff said:A dryer should not be run on an extension cord, and if you did this cord would be expensive. There are too many variablles without more info, ask around your area for references for an electrician.
If you look at my answer, I said you should not run an dryer on an extension cord. If the person was plugging in this cord to an dryer out let to feed an garage this not acceptable. what I meant by too many variables is that I needed more info to give him advice. Cords in general mean temporary supply of power and if he wanted the proper cord it was going to be very expensive even though I don't approve. So cords stated by a previous viewier are not allowed if exposed to physical damadge. The proper cord left exposed is very expensive for temporary supply of power. Check with any local inspector or local fire marshall. I deal with cords all the time at work, and people just don't know about them. THEY ARE TEMPORARY302 Z28 said:Making a blanket statement like that without knowledge of any variables is wrong. An extension cord sized properly for the breaker feeding the circuit is perfectly acceptable and safe.
FWIW, If your state licenses electricians make sure who ever you contract with has the proper license.
Vince
http://www.cityofboise.org/Departme...ding/400_HomeownersGuidetoBuildingProcess.pdftimothale said:Some jurisdictions require only licensed electricians to do elect work and only licensed contractor can get a permit. Other places the home owner can get the permit. The whole key here is do it right, have it checked. 10 years ago I bought an old farm, we did the walk thru and could see a lot of elect work that didn’t' meet code. My son checked the incoming line, Romex ran thru the trees and it was not powered (romex in trees not to code). This was an estate sale so there was no homeowner disclosure of permit-known defect possible. There was a new meter on one side of the house and on the barn side the old box was bare. Someone had wired it so when the back porch was on it powered the shop. barn and horse stalls. I was gone one Sunday and my son turned on the back porch lite and it did about $ 50 k damage. Lucky I had full replacement insurance and 500 deductible.
Good points :thumbup:RideQuality said:I just "ran" a single dedicated 220 for my welder into my garage. I use the term "ran" loosley as the fusebox is on the same was as my 220 receptacle.
While it is a quite simple hook up to acomplish, And please note I am not a "licenced anything" except destroyer of working objects.....
I will offer there pieces of advice...
1. Pickup a do it yourself electrical book from Home Depot or Lowes and look through it, you will likely find exactly what you want to know. Heck, you dont need to buy it, just have a look at it and read it.
2. If your gonna run a welder requiring a max amperage draw of 30 amps, and it uses a popular 50 amp receptacle like a Nema 6-50 (like my Hobart does) use a wire that can handle 50 amps or better. The reason is pretty simple for this, perhaps you aquire another "Toy" that uses the same type of plug as the welder, but you overlook the amperage draw it pulls when in use. Its easy to think "I can simply plug it in this outlet, there the same" and next thing you know you got a "smoking wall snake" through the house....lol
3. Run the propper breaker on the other side to compliment the outlet and the line. You could place a lower breaker in the circuit because your welder only draws say 30 amps, but again I would rather have the power needed onhand without requiring a run to the Depot. Most welders have an internal circuit breaker built in that will keep itself in check, I wouldnt buy one without it.
No, I understood you.RideQuality said:Did I describe that incorectly?
:sweat:
LOL
Good point, this is a common misconception people have.Old Fool said:No, I understood you.
I have heard to many people think that the breaker protects the appliance. .
Thanks for that history and explanation OLNOLAN. Very informative. Explains some the "mysteries" I've wondered about.OLNOLAN said:On any given circuit, the hot conductor(s) (wire)(s) & the neutral conductor(wire) are considered normal current carrying conductors...
Okay, the Nema 10 (3-wire) design versus the Nema 14 (4-wire);