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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-08-2011 06:01 PM
this past winter

before this past season
02-06-2011 06:06 AM
eloc431962 Glad you got it figured out. And thank's for posting back and letting us know.

02-06-2011 06:00 AM
UPandComing best i can find for now
02-06-2011 04:59 AM
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
Good deal. I looked back at the picture you included when you first did this post last year and it sure looks nice. However I would put that flex fan in the trash where it belongs.
i hear ya the flex fan is going away when i install the new engine, gonna do electric fans and electric water pump. also my top end looks totally diff from pics, ill update this week
02-06-2011 04:09 AM
DoubleVision Good deal. I looked back at the picture you included when you first did this post last year and it sure looks nice. However I would put that flex fan in the trash where it belongs.
02-05-2011 11:57 PM

ok to everyone who posted here sorry it took so long to write again, i made allot of changes to the car, i found out why it wouldnt start, one day at the track someone was lookin it over with me , we discovered that when the engine gets hott the magnetic pickup in the distributor actually moves apart (the gap widens) after moving it closer the problem was resolved and actually cleared up the popping issues
04-05-2010 07:07 AM
UPandComing i run a high torgue starter , this dam engine is kickin my butt i know iv done everything right dunno what to do
04-02-2010 03:44 PM
T-bucket23 Set the timing with a light to about12-14 initial and I bet your problems go away. Trying to start a hot engine at 35BDC is going to be tough unless you have a high torque starter.
04-02-2010 12:59 PM
UPandComing i run 5 psi of fuel pressure i wonder if its to much? maybe the engine is to lean? maybe mallory components just suck?
02-08-2010 08:34 PM
frank23834 I would guess the module in the distributor. When they warm up they can go out, but run great on start-up. If your distributor has one or not. Just guessing here..LOL
02-08-2010 08:27 PM
Torque454 I agree its got to be timing. However, flooding or improperly turned carburetor(s) or excessive oil leaking past the valve seals will make it a real ****** to start too. These problems usually occur when the engine is hot and once the engine is cool the engine starts. It may not have anything to do with the temperature, just the fact that the flooded engine will clear up some on its own after a while. Also, a cold engine needs to run a little on the rich side so the remaining excess fuel will help it start then.

A rich mixture doesn't need as much advance to fire so maybe that is why moving the timing helps it start.

Just a thought.
02-08-2010 12:39 PM
Originally Posted by UPandComing
loll yes dual 650's properly tuned and jetted doesn't run rich, the heads are SB-Chevy 302-400Ci Performer RPM Aluminum Cylinder Head
185cc Intake Ports
70cc Combustion Chambers
2.020''/1.600'' Valves
1.460'' Valve Springs, .575'' Max Lift
3/8'' Rocker Studs
Straight Plug

^^as per the description from jegs

also i think i just made my words a little confusing on the timing portion up there, my cam to crank gears are properly aligned, my valve adjustments are right, when i drop the distributor in i make sure the #1 cylinder is tdc compression stroke and that the rotor points to the #1 cylinder, the engine fires right up...while warmed up i set the idle speed to 800 rpms and advance the distributor until all detonation ceases then tighten distributor, when snapping the throttle i get instant response with no back fires from intake or exhaust, car sits in gear fine at a stop with no signs of dying, the car takes off from a stand still but not enough to break the tires loose, once moving it seems to be all top end power but for some reason it sounds like its backfiring constantly under load through the exhaust but still maintains the throttle response, could that be the result of running headers with cherry bombs and nothing else? then when i shut the car off i have to sit around and wait at least 2 hours for the engine to cool to the point where it will start again, and if im in a rush to get it running again i have to loosen the distributor and retard the timing while cranking then rapidly advance the timing to get it to fire up. i hope i was able to clarify a little bit better
Sounds like the timing is off regardless of how you think it's set up. Having to retard the distributor to get it to fire, then crank advance in sounds like the cam is timed late. A contributor could be running lean, the desire to back fire is an indicator of this.

You need to check the cam with a degree wheel, even if you set the timing gears and chain up properly by the marks, you wouldn't be the first guy to purchase a cam that's ground off it's marks.

02-08-2010 10:56 AM
BBCMudbogger even if there is no vacuum adv there is still probably mechanical advance unless it has been locked out
02-08-2010 10:27 AM
UPandComing [QUOTE=
Why are you not using a vacuum advance?[/QUOTE]

iv gone through a bunch of distributors from points to hei, to the one with the infared breaker, dual point , now the magnetic breakerless they all had vac advance accept the magnetic breakerless and it seems to run best
02-08-2010 05:35 AM
Originally Posted by UPandComing
k but how do you set the timing on a distributor that has no vacume advance and has magnetic pickup?
The hard starting could very well be caused by excessive initial timing.

If you don't have either a dial back timing light or a degreed damper, MAKE A TIMING TAPE.

If you want to be sure the pointer and damper mark is correct for TDC, DETERMINE TDC.

The initial timing- that is the timing at idle, w/o centrifugal or vacuum advance added in- can be anywhere in the 8 to 14 degrees BTDC range. This is a rough estimate- the actual timing will vary from engine to engine depending on a multitude of factors.

TOTAL timing (centrifugal plus initial timing) should be in the area of 36 degrees BTDC, all in before 3000 RPM.

Why are you not using a vacuum advance?
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