|02-10-2010 01:26 PM|
|02-10-2010 10:10 AM|
Brian, I don't have any problem with a question like that - heck I even factored that into my building plan for my 'A' especially after the 9" drive shaft I had in my 'bucket (see above). Someone just wants to cross the 'T's' and dot the 'i's'. Yeah, it is a bit out of a normal persons plan, but to each his own. But then who's normal?
|02-10-2010 09:15 AM|
I don't understand how drive shaft length would be any part what so ever of the "planning stages".
You set up your car with the look you want, THEN you simply make the drive shaft that fits where you have put the components!
Spend the time setting up where you want it to get the look you are after. Stand back and look at it, move the rear end back and forth in your mock up to see how that changes the overall appearance.
DO NOT do this without the wheels and tires you plan on using. Moving the rear or front axle a half an inch forward or back can make a HUGE difference on the appearance of the car.
Spend your time setting it up then simply measure off where the drive shaft goes and get one made or make it yourself.
|02-10-2010 08:26 AM|
Kenny - it was a 'standard' Total Performance top. Since Speedway now supplies the car, I think that this is the same item:
It doesn't look like Speedway supplies the material any longer, but any good upholstery shop can make it up if you just take them a photo of mine. The only changes I would make would be the rear window and add some padding on the sides.
|02-10-2010 07:38 AM|
|02-09-2010 09:12 AM|
Mine is 7 1/2" center to center ... Ford 302 with C4 trans
|01-13-2010 09:00 AM|
irs drive shaft
The nice thing about the Jag or other IRS is there is very little movement of the drive shaft. Just depends on stiffness of motor-trans mounts and Dif center section mounting, so when set up right very little drive shaft U joint wear. one problem I had on one of my T's was the hairpins weren't strong enough for high torque, big tires and 4.56 gears. they bent n broke ,battery and dented the gas tank, lucky no leaks. Ron at ez t bucket or tbucketeers builds rears out of 1 inch DOM at a reasonable price
|01-13-2010 08:13 AM|
You're going to find a very wide range of driveshaft lengths in T-buckets. Wheelbase is one of the big variables in Ts. I know of a T that had NO driveshaft... just a U-joint between the tranny and the diff! This was a very short wheelbase car and the rear axle was hard-mounted to the frame. The shortest T driveshaft I have seen was about 9", and the longest probably around 3 feet. I have a short-tail TH350 and a Jag rear-end in my T, and my driveshaft is 18.5". My wheelbase 105".
|01-12-2010 10:58 AM|
drive shaft size....
HI ,when i built my 23 T roadster,with a ford 302 and C-4 trans,my driveshaft was 14 inches long.
|01-11-2010 08:19 PM|
Drive shaft length in a T bucket is based on several things - chiefly the engine and transmission length and placement in the chassis, the key items. The one I built several years ago was based on a Total Performance chassis with a Ford 351W/C4 transmission. The engine was ~4" ahead of where they suggested and with that placement, had a 9" long drive shaft centerline to centerline of the u-joint bearing cups. This could have caused some problems with u-joint wear, but it was anticipated, and for <$25/year changed them out, JIC (they were never bad)
|01-11-2010 07:20 PM|
|cucumber1949||The driveshaft tube in mine is 20 inches. Go to Denny's driveshaft web page for info on how to measure once you get a better idea of what you will be running for trans and rear end.|
|01-11-2010 07:05 PM|
Thinking of building a T bucket and was wondering what the average length of the driveshaft might be?? I know it all depends on trans/eng/rearend combo used but just need an approximate length for planning stage. Thanks in advance for your help. John (Mayor) Hodgen