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Designs for building a 700ish HP 383 stroker

90K views 54 replies 18 participants last post by  S10 Racer 
#1 ·
I'm looking into building a 383 stroker soon, I already have a 350 bored 30 over, might use that or else summit sells a 383 block for $729.99, I want this motor to snap and am looking for alot of torque as well. Any opinions on compression ratios, heads block, crank... basically a good blue print on everything haha... I have built up a few 350s before so I'm not new to the process but I haven't built a 383 yet... I am not gonna cut corners on this project as that has bit me in the *** to many times...

Pat
 
#27 ·
for those of you who dont believe cam383aro, i have seen a naturally aspirated 383 stroker run a car into the high 8s, its all aluminum dart block, cnc ported dart heads, .650 solid roller cam, cnc ported dart intake, ect. its pushing 15:1 comp, its a 93 firebird with a tube chassis, 4-link rear, full fiberglass body, narrowed dana 60 with 5.-- (forget the exact number) spooled rear with 32x14 inch goodyear eagle slicks. anything else you wanna know let ask me

and btw it doesnt run 8s everyday. its usually a very low 9 second car
 
#29 ·
That is great for you and congratulations....but that wasn't the point we were ALL trying to tell the OP. You have a DART ALUMINUM BLOCK, he thinks he can do the same thing with a stock OEM block. We were advising him that he should go with an aftermarket block, like you did...thats all.
 
#31 ·
dbmx66 said:
for those of you who dont believe cam383aro, i have seen a naturally aspirated 383 stroker run a car into the high 8s, its all aluminum dart block, cnc ported dart heads, .650 solid roller cam, cnc ported dart intake, ect. its pushing 15:1 comp, its a 93 firebird with a tube chassis, 4-link rear, full fiberglass body, narrowed dana 60 with 5.-- (forget the exact number) spooled rear with 32x14 inch goodyear eagle slicks. anything else you wanna know let ask me
I don't doubt you because I know it too - specs like that and light weight body will get you there.....it isn't really cheap tho', and I wouldn't even remotely call it street friendly, any street friendly body is just going to slow it down and it will eat up valvesprings. $25 a gallon fuel to run that 15-1 is pretty salty $$$ to just cruise on also.

Doing it with a Factory block is pretty risky :pain: , how does your luck run??
An awful lot will get sacrificed if the block gives up.
 
#38 · (Edited)
cam383aro said:
what do you have in mind for a big block, I havent really delt much with them
I've never built one either. I just know that if I were to shoot for that kind of power I'd start with a big block. Probably a 496, maybe bigger.

Techinspector, I like your thinking. Can we put a supercharger on it too? :cool: :D

Anybody remember Hot Rods 632" Crusher Camaro? 750hp at 5800 rpm. 750 lb-ft at 4800 rpm. Cam383aro there's your torque.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_0303_1967_chevrolet_camaro_engine/index.html
 
#40 ·
here is a calculator I wrote. the preset fields are for an old friends 496. it was a stock 2 bolt production block and not filled. The heads were AFR 345's.

http://www.speedwaybids.com/camshaft_calculator.html

it would RUN on pump gas but not race. In a 3200 lb chevy luv with a large dose of nitrous it went 8.70's. With the same basic combo but with a brodix 2 plus heads and a 730" / 282 @ 050 cam it dyno'ed at 730 HP and eventually went 9.1x's

http://www.streetfire.net/video/Chevy-luv-runs-926-first_123428.htm


IF you are dead set on a 383 stock block fill it and pray.
14.5 compression, AFR 235 cnc eliminator's (322/231) a cam with 274-277 @ 050 / 630"-650" .... should net the 700 + HP
 
#42 ·
Build a 421 since you have to buy a dart block anyway, 14 to 1 squeeze, solid roller mid 250's duration at .050 around .650 lift.AFR 220 heads, 800 or better carb will put around 650hp give or take a few.Will pull like a freight train from 3000 up to 7200.106 lobe seperation installed at 102 degrees.
 
#44 ·
dbmx66 said:
for those of you who dont believe cam383aro, i have seen a naturally aspirated 383 stroker run a car into the high 8s, its all aluminum dart block, cnc ported dart heads, .650 solid roller cam, cnc ported dart intake, ect. its pushing 15:1 comp, its a 93 firebird with a tube chassis, 4-link rear, full fiberglass body, narrowed dana 60 with 5.-- (forget the exact number) spooled rear with 32x14 inch goodyear eagle slicks. anything else you wanna know let ask me

and btw it doesnt run 8s everyday. its usually a very low 9 second car

no one ever said it wasn't possible, but that it was next to impossible with a stock block, and you have just proven the point that i tried to make earlier, that he just didn't know everything that his buddy had into his car.

i would personaly recomend a BBC as well, and since you want 700ish hp then you will need to go with a forged rotating assembly so why not go with a 489 or 496, one is .030 and the other is .060 (this will probably be the easiest stroker to make) i've seen 700hp run on a stock gm big block, but it will need clearenceing just like the 383 would, you will need to have a 454 block machined then get a 4.250 crank. it would be far easier to get the hp/tq number you are looking for, and possibly be able to run it on the street. now it would be safer to run a after market block like the DART big M for this but if you were to go that route i wouldn't shoot for the 489/496 i would have the bore cut to 4.500 and run either a 4.250 crank (540) or a 4.500 crank (572) it would cost a little more but the numbers you want to reach would be easy with these CID's and you could do it easily on pump gas you would also be able to match you tq to your hp like 700hp/700tq
 
#45 ·
With out a power adder, your daily street driving will stink @700hp. Nitrous is nice since you only use it when needed. Driving a high HP car on the track is one thing. Trying to control it on twisting roads when a deer jumps out is a whole nother story. Nitrous lets you keep things sane for getting groceries but still be insane on track day. Plus nitrous can travel to your next car.

IMO Build a strong 450HP 383 with forged internals. Then hit it with the giggle gas. It'll cost 1/2 or less of a NA engine making the same power.
 
#46 ·
Landshark928 said:
With out a power adder, your daily street driving will stink @700hp. Nitrous is nice since you only use it when needed. Driving a high HP car on the track is one thing. Trying to control it on twisting roads when a deer jumps out is a whole nother story. Nitrous lets you keep things sane for getting groceries but still be insane on track day. Plus nitrous can travel to your next car.

IMO Build a strong 450HP 383 with forged internals. Then hit it with the giggle gas. It'll cost 1/2 or less of a NA engine making the same power.

X2, although i dont like nitrous, this makes sense
 
#48 ·
my87Z said:
no one ever said it wasn't possible, but that it was next to impossible with a stock block, and you have just proven the point that i tried to make earlier, that he just didn't know everything that his buddy had into his car.

i would personaly recomend a BBC as well, and since you want 700ish hp then you will need to go with a forged rotating assembly so why not go with a 489 or 496, one is .030 and the other is .060 (this will probably be the easiest stroker to make) i've seen 700hp run on a stock gm big block, but it will need clearenceing just like the 383 would, you will need to have a 454 block machined then get a 4.250 crank. it would be far easier to get the hp/tq number you are looking for, and possibly be able to run it on the street. now it would be safer to run a after market block like the DART big M for this but if you were to go that route i wouldn't shoot for the 489/496 i would have the bore cut to 4.500 and run either a 4.250 crank (540) or a 4.500 crank (572) it would cost a little more but the numbers you want to reach would be easy with these CID's and you could do it easily on pump gas you would also be able to match you tq to your hp like 700hp/700tq
I really don't wanna go the nitro way rather stick with either a 383 stroker or BBC...

I'm starting to lean towards the BBC idea, especially the 700hp/700tq sounds real nice :mwink: , if i were to shy away from spending the couple grand on a dart BB, what size would you suggest, and what done to it in without putting it on the verge of imploding...
 
#51 ·
ap72 said:
a 502 with the lightest forged rotating assembly that can still go long term.

X2
i like the 502 since it still uses the 4.00" crank, i would feel more comfortble running it higher in the rpms

a 502 is a mark-5 (gen V) or mark-6 (gen VI) truck block, they can be found in commercial vehicles from the late 80's to early 90's, i've heard different thing as far as which vehicles to find them in, the main one ive head of is school buses (blue bird) but i also know that some of these commercial vehicles came with a 366 bbc and a 427 bbc.

bore is 4.466
stroke is 4.00

these blocks are very popular for building the 540 as well
 
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