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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-15-2010 07:47 PM
ericnova72 If you can afford the shaft set it is the best way to go, if you can stay around .750" lift or less you will probably be fine with good stud mounts and a stud girdle. Look at Yella Terra or Probe shaft sets for decent prices that come close to being as inexpensive as all the stud mount parts would be.
04-15-2010 07:17 PM
Shaft mount or stud mount?

i just got to thinking... Should i save myself the risk and use a shaft mount rocker system? So far the cams i have in mind all have over .700" lift with 1.7 rockers. I would like to make good power to 7000ish, but not peak power at 7000.
04-14-2010 02:13 AM
back again

well, i got lucky and found a direct bolt in 9" for my car. 35 spline axles, detroit locker, and a "big bearing" center section with 4.11 gears.

So it looks like i can now build for a lot of power without having to worry.

I found some wiseco pro-tru pistons with a 15cc dome - i will get about 10.9:1 with out milling the heads.

I was doing some reading, but it think i might go with a callies compstar crank and compstar h-beams. seams like everyone has good things to say about callies.

My lates question is concerning the heads: should i buy assembled heads from brodix, or buy bare castings and have the machine shop set up the valves and springs? I am going to run a pretty mean SR cam, and i think ill bit the bullet and get shaft mount rocker arms.

any advice on this would be quite handy!
03-28-2010 12:07 AM
ericnova72 Can't advise you on the driveshaft, I leave that to a pro, call a shaft builder of your choice and let the tech help you figure what would be best as this is all application and usage specific. I have always used Denny's Driveshaft in the past and have never been dissappointed but there are many others in different regions of the country, even small local places that can do the job but be careful with the local places, some say they can do it but really can't as they are more used to doing truck work. Ask racers in your are who works good if you look to a local place.

Moroso and Milodon do have some decent pans, Stef's and Canton are decent too.

I hear you on the cast pans, alot of the cheaper ones had fit problems or were designed (mold form) before the 383 craze came about and didn't fit well with the 3.75" stroke.
03-27-2010 11:14 PM
Biscuit6447 thanks, that all makes perfect sense! I know the pictures in summit and jegs are not the real thing, but would you say that moroso and milodon make good pans? My dad kinda had this problem because he bought a cast aluminum pan (unknown brand) for his 383 and it had all sorts of fitment issues. i would like to not have that problem.

k now...

I know i need a bigger driveshaft, but i can't decide between aluminum and steel. I just found a moser 9" direct bolt in on craigslist, so now all i need is a driveshaft. i know i will need 1350 non-cross drilled u-joints, but will a 3.5" aluminum d/s suffice?
03-27-2010 06:50 PM
Originally Posted by Biscuit6447
A kickout on the passenger side? aren't kickout pans bigger all the way around? will it not be symmetrical? i guess i have never seen an oil pan with a kickout on one side.

Different topic: I would like to run an electric WP - i found a proform 32gph electric pump on craigslist, used for dyno testing only. what say you to this? any other good brand of electric water pumps?
The full length kick-out on the pass side allows the oil to be slung off and trapped away from the crank, rather than being carried back up into the rotating assembly. This type of kick-out pouch is right up along the pan to block rail, not at the bottom of the pan. Start looking at good pans and you will see what I mean. Sometimes it will only be a 3/4 length kick-out to allow room for the starter.

There is no requirement that a pan be symmetrical, just that it fits the engine and chassis.

I don't think that waterpump will do the job, you need to be looking at the 55 gph type stuff for an engine this big. the smaller electric pumps are for short bracket use only, or maybe street small blocks or mild big blocks. The cheap 30-ish gph pump(Proform, has worked flawless for 6 years) in a friends 383 is borderline not enough for street driving, car runs low 11's on motor, low 10's on spray, 11-1 comp and iron heads. My thoughts are you need to look at Meziere, CSR, CSI or similar billet pumps with big motors on them.
03-27-2010 03:32 PM
Biscuit6447 A kickout on the passenger side? aren't kickout pans bigger all the way around? will it not be symmetrical? i guess i have never seen an oil pan with a kickout on one side.

Different topic: I would like to run an electric WP - i found a proform 32gph electric pump on craigslist, used for dyno testing only. what say you to this? any other good brand of electric water pumps?
03-27-2010 03:06 AM
ericnova72 Something with louvered baffles and trap doors, not screens. Seems that screens like to vibrate apart. If you could fit something with a pass side full length kickout into your chassis and header plan it would be real nice
03-27-2010 12:50 AM
Biscuit6447 thanks again, sounds like i got my oiling system all figured out... almost.... just one more question.

I will be getting the moroso billet spur gear oil pump. it says it is designed for 8" deep pans. what would be a good oil pan with a build in windage tray or something similar? i would prefer to not get windage tray studs and mess up my mains. i have a feeling i will be getting a tubular k-member so i will have tons of oil pan options.
03-27-2010 12:18 AM
ericnova72 I would do just the gauge to track it and add a cooler if it proves necessary, you don't need any more accessories in the pressure side than you have to have.

210-250 temp range on oil would be my target.
03-27-2010 12:03 AM
Biscuit6447 well.... thats the thing. i used the power (responsibly, though). what is the general rule for oil and coolant temperatures? i read a flex-a-lite quickie on oil temp and engine life, cooler oil = longer engine life. but then again it could just be a advertising deal.

i know that your oil needs to be warm enough to self clean, but cool enough to not break down. could i just put in an oil temp gauge and then decide on the cooler after that?

I will really only be driving this car from April to August (ish), and i live in Denver so it gets hot and dry.
03-26-2010 11:56 PM
ericnova72 Yes, I meant Accumulator, the one with the piston inside with air pressure and a shut-off valve on the oil side. CRS kicked in, I typed it wrong.

I don't think you need an oil cooler, they are mainly for long term high heat loads in the oil like road race course or marine use, but you could run one if you want. On the remote mount, if you got to move the filter got to move the filter.

Yes, everything is on the pressure side.
03-26-2010 11:33 PM
Biscuit6447 Is an accumulator the same thing? Just to get things strait: the accusump tank basically is plumbed on the pressure side of the oil system, and will be re-pressured as the engine is ran? I know some used compressed air, but do other use springs? sounds like it might be a good idea. I also want to run a remote oil filter and oil cooler... do you think these are necessary items? I am almost confident i will NEED to run a remote oil filter because of headers and chassis setup.

My dart big m has tons of oil inlets and outlets, i am wondering if i can use those for an oil cooler. To my logic,with a wet sump, everything i put in (accumulator, oil cooler, filter) must be on the Pressure side of the oil system, correct?

i did do some reading on gerotor pump from moroso... i guess the gerotor is only need when you run larger tolerences from blown and nitrous engines. Otherwise you will end up with to big of a pump. the spur gear pump it is!

i will decide on an oil pan once i decide on a k-member.
03-25-2010 07:24 PM
ericnova72 If you are worried about dry start-up issues and starvation, why don't you just add an Accusump tank to the wet sump system to store 1-1/2 to 2 quarts under pressure?? Standard proceedure in road race cars so the oil system doesn't get bit due to G forces. Shut it off before killing the ignition, save that pressurized amount and use it to pre-lube the next start-up.

I would use the Melling pump with the captured (guided in main body and cap) spur gears myself, pump everything through including trash, let the blocked bypass and filter catch it all. No need to re-invent the wheel here, I would be more worried about getting a GOOD pan that is going to fit your chassis.
03-25-2010 06:49 PM
Biscuit6447 Well... i don't want ANY garbage going through my oil pump whatsoever. This just brings up another question: what are some good filters without a bypass? if your oiling system is set up right, you should ever run into oil starvation... right?!?!?!?

I have looked at that pump before, but the gerotor version is only $50 more.

Which pump of the two would be best for startups? which one will supply full oil pressure the fastest in order to reduce engine wear?? since it will be a street car (kinda) it will be started a lot.

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