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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-18-2010 08:37 PM
Torque454 I didnt put them back in on my 72 when i had it apart. And i didnt reinstall the one wing that is supposed to be on this truck too.

I dont really see much need for them, especially on my truck with the crossmember that bolts to the side.
03-18-2010 08:34 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
You have to remove those "wing" braces first
But I didn't put them back, on my '76 Blazer. Said I would after testing out the tranny I put in it, but just never seemed to find the time...
03-18-2010 08:27 PM
Torque454
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
Yeah, that "deciding factor" thing beats me too. Did the 'Burb have single or dual exhaust from the factory?

As far as "getting it out" goes ... I don't recall that being too hard.
You have to remove those "wing" braces first, so that you can lift one side to the top of the inside of the frame rail. After that, I think it just cleared the bottom edge and slipped out from below.

The tranny had already been pulled though, so I can imagine it would be a lot harder if it was in the way.
It was dual exhaust, dont know if it was factory or not tho. Im sure that it probably was. I had the trans out when i tried to remove that crossmember. I might not have been able to get the bolt out that holds the wing onto the crossmember. That may have been the problem. I cant remember for sure, that was back in 06.
03-18-2010 08:23 PM
66GMC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torque454
My crossmember is like the black one at the bottom of the pic. Bolts on the outside on the left and bots on the bottom on the right side. This is in a 79 C-10 pickup.

Now, a couple years ago I had a 78 suburban, also a C-10, that had the other style crossmember (top one in the pic).

Im not sure what the deciding factor is on what truck gets which crossmember. My 79 was originally a six cylinder with a 3 on the tree manual trans, and the 78 suburban had a 454 and a TH400.

Before i scrapped that suburban (after it was wrecked) I tried to get the crossmember out, but couldnt. It appeared that I would have to seperate the frame rails to get it out, which means i would have to do the same on this truck to get that crossmember in. A task I am not up to at the moment.
Yeah, that "deciding factor" thing beats me too. Did the 'Burb have single or dual exhaust from the factory?

As far as "getting it out" goes ... I don't recall that being too hard.
You have to remove those "wing" braces first, so that you can lift one side to the top of the inside of the frame rail. After that, I think it just cleared the bottom edge and slipped out from below.

The tranny had already been pulled though, so I can imagine it would be a lot harder if it was in the way.
03-18-2010 08:13 PM
Torque454 My crossmember is like the black one at the bottom of the pic. Bolts on the outside on the left and bots on the bottom on the right side. This is in a 79 C-10 pickup.

Now, a couple years ago I had a 78 suburban, also a C-10, that had the other style crossmember (top one in the pic).

Im not sure what the deciding factor is on what truck gets which crossmember. My 79 was originally a six cylinder with a 3 on the tree manual trans, and the 78 suburban had a 454 and a TH400.

Before i scrapped that suburban (after it was wrecked) I tried to get the crossmember out, but couldnt. It appeared that I would have to seperate the frame rails to get it out, which means i would have to do the same on this truck to get that crossmember in. A task I am not up to at the moment.
03-18-2010 08:12 PM
66GMC Here's another picture of the installed crossmember and temporary exhaust system.
03-18-2010 08:05 PM
66GMC The trans crossmember from my donor truck (1979 C20 3+3 Camper Special)
wouldn't fit between the frame rails of my '66, but there was another truck (well, what was left of a C10 truck) in the compound that had a different c/member style.

The cab, engine, trans were all gone ... the only indicator of year range was the pickup box and the steering box ... which had SAE flare fittings. This means it was likely 81 or prior, for sure.

I can't remember what the other significant clues were, but I had somehow guesstimated it to be a 1976.

So here is the picture of the two c/member styles. The "73-80" one was missing one of the support brackets, which was a pretty easy find at the wreckers.

Click here for picture


I am using that now on my '66, and dual exhaust (straight pipe from header to turbo mufflers) fits fine.

Hope this helps.
03-18-2010 07:02 PM
Torque454 I ended up taking two 45 degree 2.5" pipes, cutting one short, and welding them together. This pointed the exhaust down and then back which i then welded a straight section of pipe onto and now i'm going out to clamp the mufflers on. I dont want to weld them on really but i suppose i could.
03-17-2010 06:41 AM
sqzbox
Exhaust

I feel for you. My 76 chevy had the same problem with fit of the headers.
It's kind of a joke as the collectors point right at the crossmember.
I got around that with two flexible exhaust repair kit's. I bent them to go over the crossmember between the transfer case and then hooked the 2 1/2"
pipe on back. Every one said "oh, they'll rust out" but they have been on there since sept. 08 with no problems so far. Good enough for me as I don't have a fat wallet. Even if they do, it's been long enough that I can afford new kit's. This exhaust has been through 2 winters and a bunch of off road trips and mud bog's.
03-17-2010 06:08 AM
Rickracer
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torque454
...I've got magnaflow mufflers for it but i can only get one side on with a strait pipe due to crossmember clearance issues on the other side. I'll unfortunately have to go to a muffler shop and have them bend a pipe to go under or over the crossmember....
I generally build a new crossmember, or modify the stock one,
03-16-2010 11:25 PM
sqzbox
Tinnitus

HUH? What he say? After vietnam and a couple of yrs bracket racing I now work in a factory and I have to wear ear plugs! Now I am deaf.
03-16-2010 06:34 PM
Torque454 Might be too late, I have ringing in my ears all the time anyways. I have for years tho. Thanks for the heads up tho. I do need to be more careful about my ears and my eyes.
03-16-2010 06:29 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torque454
I plugged the line to the booster and it runs fine. It even shifted. However it was hard to tell that it shifted. Its got open headers right now so its loud as can be and now with the 4.10 gears the rpms are still high-ish when it shifts. So I dont know if i just didnt hear it shift or if the shifting problem was solved by plugging the booster, but either way the transmission is now shifting.

I am careful not to get into the throttle very much because it is very, very loud and im in a residential neighborhood full of elderly people and parents with kids. I'm surprised people dont complain about it sitting there idling its so loud. I've got magnaflow mufflers for it but i can only get one side on with a strait pipe due to crossmember clearance issues on the other side. I'll unfortunately have to go to a muffler shop and have them bend a pipe to go under or over the crossmember. The main reason ive got headers was mainly so I WOULDNT have to go to a muffler shop. The performance gain is just an added benefit

Just my luck.
Cool! Progress is a GOOD thing!

What I next tell you is sadly, from experience.

Hearing loss is cumulative. By that (as it was explained to me by my Dr.) I mean that every time that your are exposed to loud noise, there is permanent damage done. You do NOT even have to hear that 'ringing' like after a concert for the damage to be done- but if you DO have a ringing in your ears after a show, etc.- you can BET there's been significant, irreversible damage to your hearing!

Over a lifetime (or MUCH shorter, if the exposure is severe/repetitious) this will cause you to get a constant ringing/noise in your ears called "tinnitus".

Once this begins, there's no going back, it's basically permanent. Even when you sit in a quiet room, you'll hear it. Not fun.

If I had a dime for every, "HUH?" I've used in the last twenty years, my house would be paid off.

Bottom line- use hearing protection. It's cheap insurance you won't be deaf in your later years!
03-16-2010 06:11 PM
Torque454 I plugged the line to the booster and it runs fine. It even shifted. However it was hard to tell that it shifted. Its got open headers right now so its loud as can be and now with the 4.10 gears the rpms are still high-ish when it shifts. So I dont know if i just didnt hear it shift or if the shifting problem was solved by plugging the booster, but either way the transmission is now shifting.

I am careful not to get into the throttle very much because it is very, very loud and im in a residential neighborhood full of elderly people and parents with kids. I'm surprised people dont complain about it sitting there idling its so loud. I've got magnaflow mufflers for it but i can only get one side on with a strait pipe due to crossmember clearance issues on the other side. I'll unfortunately have to go to a muffler shop and have them bend a pipe to go under or over the crossmember. The main reason ive got headers was mainly so I WOULDNT have to go to a muffler shop. The performance gain is just an added benefit

Just my luck.
03-16-2010 11:18 AM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torque454
Guess my next step is to replace the booster and maybe the modulator. The vac hose is new and hooked up on both ends. I just did it the other day when I was reinstalling the engine and all.
Yeah, I agree. Booster first, you need it anyway. But if you want to work on the tranny problem first, just block off the hose going to the booster so there's no vacuum leak when you hit the brakes.

Then see if by chance that changes the no-shift condition.

If it doesn't, you can pull the modulator from the tranny, and using a piece of vacuum tubing hooked to a vacuum source on the engine (engine running, obviously- you are using the engine as a "vacuum pump"), hook the modulator up to the tubing and see if it retracts. You can also do this by mouth.

And if it does retract, see then if it will hold a vacuum by bending the tubing like a garden hose when you shut the water off, or by putting your tongue over the end of the tubing in your mouth.

It should hold a vacuum as long as YOU do- there should be zero leak-down. And as mentioned before- there should be no ATF in the line or the port of the modulator.

If that all checks out, the next move is to pop the wire bail off the governor cover and pry it off to get a look at the governor. It will just pull straight out.

If the gear's damaged- you will see it. Keep it CLEAN- no dirt or dust, etc.
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